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hack n tap or not?

F

frankensteinxj

NAXJA Forum User
Location
ohio
Alright Im swapping a sterling 10.25 rear and d60 front in my xj and i am keeping the good ole np231 for now.
I have been thinking about a hack n tap kit but not sure if I should even get one since im making new driveshafts anyways..
I do not drive this rig on the road.
Ive moved the axle back about 4" and am keeping leafs and its lifted 4"
If I install the hack n tap I will need to make the front/rear shaft work, and if I dont I will have to make a new shaft for the rear anyways and just keep the slip yoke at the t-case.
What are your thoughts?
is it worth the time on an offroad only rig? Or will I be sorry if I dont do it.
Flame away if you would like :gee:
 
I'm guessing your rig is a '96?
Not sure if the 231 is up to pushing real big tires (I'm also guessing you plan on running big rubber.) Most of the time, when switching out to the big axles we end up with Atlas transfer cases.
Anyone else running the big axles and stock t-case?
 
It would be kind of a gamble. With the axle moved back and only a 4" lift, you might be okay with a slip yoke.
Then again, you might not be, and then you'd be out the money for a driveshaft.

I'm sure you could find the right length driveshaft on a truck or something, then you could test it out...
 
Is the 2.72 gearing going to cut it?
Rather than go short shaft or hack n tap and Tera-Low 4:1, I went 241OR for a stronger case and all the goodies already there. Saved money in the long run.
 
It is a 94
I have 38s going on it.
I have seen the 231 used on big tires, and the tcase ratio should be fine as Im running 5:13 gear in the tons.
I will be making my own driveshaft either way.
Just wasnt sure if i should even take the time for the hack n tap if im not driving it on the street???????.
The 231 will be ditched in a little while but im at my budget limit for now so it stays until i sell some more parts and work some more hours lol.
:confused:
 
Most run 5.13s with 35s. You may still benefit from the deeper t-case gearing.

I'd run an SYE of some sort personally, just for the piece of mind if something breaks you won't dump all your t-case fluid if you have to pull the rear shaft.
 
if you never drive it on the road just make an uber cheap driveshaft out of a couple pieces of square tube that fit good one inside the other so that it can slip super far.
 
Jump This said:
As far as I know there is not a hack and tap option for a '94 t case.
Click to expand...


IRO sells one. You just have to buy a new flange seal with it,

Like I said though. It will get a new tcase most likely next winter due to money Ive already put in this thing so far.
I dont want to make a shaft out of square stock as to save the 231 from too many vibes and not to mention the u joints.
I think im gonna run without it and see how everything works.
 
A hack n tap will hold up as well as the rest of the tc will. The vibes created with lifting are a symptom of a problem. This problem will be there whether on or off the trail. Get the angle under control regardless of what transfer case is used. Final drive line length will be the determining factor on whether or not the front is a spare candidate. What u-joints do the axles use? 1350's have less angle capability than 1030's or 1310's.
 
Last edited:
Well I started making the drive shaft today out of my old xj shaft and the yoke from the sterling.
How much does the shaft actually move in and out of the tcase in extreme situations?
The reason I ask is because I need to know how much room to give it to slide in and out.
I made a test one today and im not going to use it because it has about 2" to slide out and 3" to slide in.
I was thinking Maybe 1" to slide in and 4" to slide out. :dunno::dunno::dunno:
 
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