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Easy mods?

B

Burt Gummer

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Maine
If 1999s are indeed better than 2000s and 2001s, is it reasonably easy for someone with no experience or an extensive shop to retrofit specific '99 parts, e.g. axles, head, ignition, to the newer vehicles as needed? I have a '99 with body issues that I plan to replace. I don't want to paint myself into a corner, but there are more '00s and '01s to choose from right now. Eventually I will be doing a mild lift and some other mods to what will be my hunting/fishing car. I don't plan strenuous off-roading, I just want a solid, capable and easily-maintained vehicle.
 
Is there smog inspection in Maine? Here in CA you can't go backwards in respect to emission systems.
The axle will bolt right up. However the wiring harness will be the biggest obstacle in swapping motors? I chose to keep all the known good parts ( drivetrain, wiring harness, computer) when I did my body swap. While I wouldn't say that vast experience is needed, you will need to bag+tag everything, keep a notebook of how things go, and take lots of pictures. It took me roughly 3 months of after work and weekends to completely swap everything to a new body.
 
Burt Gummer said:
If 1999s are indeed better than 2000s and 2001s, is it reasonably easy for someone with no experience or an extensive shop to retrofit specific '99 parts, e.g. axles, head, ignition, to the newer vehicles as needed? I have a '99 with body issues that I plan to replace. I don't want to paint myself into a corner, but there are more '00s and '01s to choose from right now. Eventually I will be doing a mild lift and some other mods to what will be my hunting/fishing car. I don't plan strenuous off-roading, I just want a solid, capable and easily-maintained vehicle.
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Main reason they are considered better is that they have a difference cylinder head which is less prone to cracking. Oh and they have a distributor based ignition system.

Honestly the 2000-2001's are fine and I'd have no problem driving one. Take care of it and it will take care of you.
 
Just make sure you check the cylinder head numbers to get one that isn't prone to cracking and you'll be fine. (a quick search will get you the numbers you DON'T want.)

The main thing you'll want to get is the front axle off of the 99 to get the HP dana 30. That's an easy swap as long as you have access to air tools.
 
There are 3 basic differences between a 99 (or older) and an 00-01. The 0331 head, the distributor-less ignition, and the low pinion D30.

0331 head cracking is talked about, much more than it actually happens. If you are worried, install the improved and non cracking 2003+ 0331 heads or retro-fit a 99 and older head. With proper preventative maintenance most 0331 heads will be fine.

The is nothing wrong with distributor-less ignition in its design or its real world performance.

The low pinion D30 is fine, or it can be easily swapped for a commonly available high pinion D30.

I would have no worries buying another 2000-01 Cherokee.
 
I would not swap a HP 30 into a 2000-2001 without not limiting it's up travel on the drivers side. If you don't you run the risk of the pinion contacting the down pipe, and at the least denting it, or worse. The pre 00 had the down pipe already crushed to keep this from happening.
 
xjsnake said:
Oh and they have a distributor based ignition system.
Click to expand...

And what about that makes it better? Besides having a less spark, plug wires to replace/maintain, more cluttered engine bay, more moving parts...?

The "best" XJ is an 01' with an HP30 and a 7120 head. Basically, just fix the
Chryco and EPA screw ups.

Back to the OP: flip your rear view mirror 180 degrees.

Edit: I've put ~250k miles on a 0331 head and overheated the piss out of it on a few different occasions... like reeeeally overheated. Enough to still make me cringe when I think about it. On top of that I also never "torqued" the head bolts back down after loosening them. Not a good idea but I did it. It's still holding up just fine, I'm still getting good mileage with lots of power. In my experience, the 0331 head thing has been a bit (or a lot) exaggerated. Just my two cents.
 
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scoobyxj said:
I would not swap a HP 30 into a 2000-2001 without not limiting it's up travel on the drivers side. If you don't you run the risk of the pinion contacting the down pipe, and at the least denting it, or worse. The pre 00 had the down pipe already crushed to keep this from happening.
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It's fine, there's a self clearancing procedure that will take care of the down pipe ;)
 
For the 00 year, they completely reconfigured the header. It now has CATs in it.

I guess if we're going to be talking Modifications, best move this thread to Modified Tech, as this is where this thread is headed.

As far as someone with 'no or limited shop experience'. Well, I've heard of Hippies rebuilding Type I, II, and III's using the "How to keep your VW Alive for the complete idiot" book. So why not. I recommend the purchase of a FSM for the appropriate year (s).
 
Not all 2000's have CA emissions and the pre-cats, mine does not.

scoobyxj said:
I would not swap a HP 30 into a 2000-2001 without not limiting it's up travel on the drivers side. ......
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True this, for an unlifted Cherokee. There would be no good reason to swap out a LP for a HP, unless you are lifted. If lifted at least 3 inches and with extended bump stops, the front drive shaft should clear the exhaust.
 
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Hmmm, all 00 and 01 units I have seen do not have an 02 sensor at the cat, but 2 in the header and a coffee can shaped Cat in the exhaust.

But that's car manufactures for you, always changing things up.

Don't know why we would have Cali emissions packages in WI. unless at some point they decided to simply go 50 State legal to avoid issues.
 
'round 240, hard miles on my 01 w the 0331 and If I ever have any problems that cause me to need a new xj (would have to b alot more damage than a bad motor) I will be looking for an 01 as they are easier to find and often in great shape.. At least it seems that way 'round here

my hp30 doesn't contact my exaust .. However am at 4" with proper bumpstop to keep tires out of fenders.

I seem to recall hearing that the computer would need swapped or reflashed if you tried to run the earlier setup. Sounds like a real pain to me.

I believe there is a 0331 head w a specific marking that is the supposedly fixed version that they used after the cherokee was discontinued on the 4.0

haha after rereading the thread i basically said all stuff allready covered . So nevermind :)
 
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