Custom Trackbar..where to bend?

I picked up a HP D30 from a friend a while back. He had OTK steering and OTA track bar mount so his geometry was fine. Not mine...i have bad death wobble and bump steer. I removed the steering stabilizer for pics.



I'm running Currie steering so my track bar needs to be lower on the axle end to keep parallel with the drag link. On this pic i cut and ground down the current OTA track bar mount and i'll re-drill to track bar lower. Also, i'm running the RE 1665 HD Trackbar bracket on fame side



My question is when I make the track bar i need to bend it to keep it from hitting the diff cover. Where do i want to bend it to keep parallel? Should i bend it like this



Any recommendations would be great thanks!

The bar itself doesn't have to be parallel with the drag link as long as points A-B are parallel. Most drag links have 2 bends in them with the axle end bending up towards the frame mount and then a bend forward by the frame end for diff clearance. The way you've drawn it I would imagine that it would contact the oil pan quicker with the bend up there.

why not get some goferit inserts and flip your tie rod and drag link otk?

you said your buddy ran otk, so clearance shouldnt be a huge hurdle.

dave92cherokee said:

The bar itself doesn't have to be parallel with the drag link as long as points A-B are parallel. Most drag links have 2 bends in them with the axle end bending up towards the frame mount and then a bend forward by the frame end for diff clearance. The way you've drawn it I would imagine that it would contact the oil pan quicker with the bend up there.

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Yea I was thinking the same about the oil Pan. Guess it'll be better to have 2 bends. Thanks!

VAhasnoWAVES said:

why not get some goferit inserts and flip your tie rod and drag link otk?

you said your buddy ran otk, so clearance shouldnt be a huge hurdle.

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You can't flip it on the passenger side only the DS with the currie steering I'm running. I actually had the insert on the DS and it drove like crap so I grabbed another knuckle at the JY. I'll put the insert back in when I get the DW and bump steer taken care of. Thanks!

Why not just get another pitman arm with a little more drop? This would bring the trackbar/draglink angles to match and lessen the angle on the draglink to improve the TRE's lifes.

foxwar71 said:

Why not just get another pitman arm with a little more drop? This would bring the trackbar/draglink angles to match and lessen the angle on the draglink to improve the TRE's lifes.

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Bushing and heim joint are shot on the current trackbar. This trackbar needs a little TLC!

I agree with foxwar... rebuild your joints because you say it obviously needs to be done, but I believe a drop pitman arm would probably fix your problems... just disconnect the piman and lower the drag link till its parallel with the track bar, measure the difference and get a new one, from the picture it looks like you would only need one thats like +1" drop, maybe 1.5"

Breezio69 said:

I agree with foxwar... rebuild your joints because you say it obviously needs to be done, but I believe a drop pitman arm would probably fix your problems... just disconnect the piman and lower the drag link till its parallel with the track bar, measure the difference and get a new one, from the picture it looks like you would only need one thats like +1" drop, maybe 1.5"

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Ok cool, heck it's worth a try!! I'm thinking good chance the DW came from the wore out bushings/heim and the bump steer from the angles??? safe to assume?
BTW... What drop is the ZJ/WJ pitman arm? Are all the grand Cherokee pitman arms the same?

I believe that GC pitmans are 1"? drop.
If you have enough lift and check clearance, you might be able to run a straight trackbar. Using the lower axle side bolt holes should have it pretty close to same angle as your draglink.

Johnnie Walker said:

I believe that GC pitmans are 1"? drop.
If you have enough lift and check clearance, you might be able to run a straight trackbar. Using the lower axle side bolt holes should have it pretty close to same angle as your draglink.

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1" thanks, I was thinking close to that. As for the straight TB, it'll make contact with the diff cover. The old TB hit it on more than 1 occasion judging by the looks of the TB and diff cover. It had a very slight bend to it too!

Johnnie Walker said:

Using the lower axle side bolt holes should have it pretty close to same angle as your draglink.

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I'm with JW on this... I see there is anothe bolt hole on the AXLE SIDE. Lower that side and rebuild Currie set up. Should be good to go