New CPS Bolts

Hey everyone,

Mechanic is asking about new bolts for the crankshaft position sensor. The ones on my Jeep were messed up when removed.

'97 Jeep Cherokee (XJ) Sport, 4.0L
4X4

Anyone know how to get a hold on these bolts? I understand they are special. Certainly there has to be replacements out there. There's still a lot of XJs on the road.

You should be able to take one of the old bolts into an ace hardware and get a matching one foe less than 5 bucks. Or you could buy a rplacement cps to use as a spare and use the bolts that come with it. A spare cps should always be in your trail bag. They go out with no warning and leave you stranded.

AwesomeXJ said:

Or you could buy a rplacement cps to use as a spare and use the bolts that come with it. A spare cps should always be in your trail bag. They go out with no warning and leave you stranded.

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I have bought about 6 CPS's in the last 2 years - none of them came with bolts.

New CPSs do not come with bolts. Anyways, the mechanic figured something out. We're good to go.

Recommend when purchasing a replacement CPS to purchase the part from the dealer or equivalent from NAPA. Replacement sensors from other autoparts stores usually end in replacing them again in a year or so....
The OEM part that I purchased from the dealer didn't come with replacement bolts.

the_weirdo said:

I have bought about 6 CPS's in the last 2 years - none of them came with bolts.

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AwesomeXJ said:

You should be able to take one of the old bolts into an ace hardware and get a matching one foe less than 5 bucks. Or you could buy a rplacement cps to use as a spare and use the bolts that come with it. A spare cps should always be in your trail bag. They go out with no warning and leave you stranded.

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SPOBI!

1. they are a special shoulder bolt to properly locate the CPS on the bellhousing. A regular bolt with the same thread will probably put the CPS either too close to or too far away from the flexplate, either one is bad.
2. replacement CPSes don't come with bolts

If your mechanic lost one of the bolts and doesn't want to admit it, you may only find out when it gets jammed and busts a hole in the bellhousing as it gets jammed on the torque converter. If the bolts got rounded off or something, they are a dealer only item AFAIK. Shouldn't be more than a few dollars each though.

techedtchr said:

Hey everyone,

Mechanic is asking about new bolts for the crankshaft position sensor. The ones on my Jeep were messed up when removed.

'97 Jeep Cherokee (XJ) Sport, 4.0L
4X4

Anyone know how to get a hold on these bolts? I understand they are special. Certainly there has to be replacements out there. There's still a lot of XJs on the road.

Click to expand...

1) Don't bother with the hardware store - the screws are kinda funky - ISO thread with an oddball shoulder to locate the CKP properly. I checked them against standard ISO screws - no dice.

2) The last couple of CKP units I bought didn't come with screws - and they were OEM.

3) The only place I know of to get the proper screws (so far) is the dealership. I need to measure them again and write it all down - they're not highly stressed, so any competent machinist should be able to make a set for you in an hour from some 7/16" hex bar with a lathe.

Or, whenever you're at the pick & pull, make a point of finding a set or two (any vehicle with the 6-242 should have them) and grab them. Probably only be a buck - and with the application and environment, the only way they really could get bunged up would be pilot error.

5-90 said:

Or, whenever you're at the pick & pull, make a point of finding a set or two (any vehicle with the 6-242 should have them) and grab them. Probably only be a buck - and with the application and environment, the only way they really could get bunged up would be pilot error.

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and as a side note, they are REAL easy to get out at the salvage yard if someone has already pulled the cyl. head. You have room to reach in with a box end wrench angled toward the engine and zip them out in a couple seconds!

I would suggest that you ask the mechanic in question what he used, since these are special bolts. If he just found something that fit the threads, there's a danger of bad CPS positioning, breakage, etc. as others have noted.


"were messed up when removed" means pretty surely that HE messed them up because he did not figure out how to get the wrench onto them straight. It's up to him to do it right.

Shorty said:

and as a side note, they are REAL easy to get out at the salvage yard if someone has already pulled the cyl. head. You have room to reach in with a box end wrench angled toward the engine and zip them out in a couple seconds!

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Ayuh.

The heads are 7/16" or 11m/m (both wrenches are right about the same size,) you can either use a box wrench to loosen them if the head is out, or use a "flex socket" (shorty socket with an inbuilt universal joint) and about 30" of extension to reach it from below.

I have just recently done this on my XJ, taking note before ever doing, it, what tools were needed, and if I damaged something, where I would have to go to fix it. Here is my take on this: Hopefully he went to the stealership and got the correct bolts. They not only have a certain length, but they also have a sholder/shank that I don't see on bolts all that often. I nearly started rounding mine getting mine out, but once out, I checked and it was just nicked on the edge some. I then took great care to put them back into place twice(once because I didn't look at the electrical connector close enough before I installed it). I believe I used an 11mm short socket, a 3/8 ujoint, and two 6" extensions, as well as a flex head ratchet. Everything worked smoothly, but both the FSM and the Haynes indicated that the original bolts need to be reused, and if they cannot, that new ones be purchased, as these bolts are specific for their purpose, and they are needed to retain proper spacing from the flywheel to keep the CPS from contacting the flywheel and being damaged. Hope he used the right ones.

Jeff

Several days ago I replaced mine... I loosened the bolts with a 3/8" wobble 11mm and then removed them with a 1/4" flex drive.
The 1/4"drive tools make the removal and installation much easier....