ford rear 8.8 swap/conversion

i know its been posted with a full write up... but ive been lookin for an hour and cant find this thread.. i have a 93 jeep cherokee and my 8.25 rear end is done... i wanna swap to a ford 8.8.. can anyone please find the write up on this

what im tryin to really find out is what year ford explorer do i need to find at the local junk yard to swap into my 93 xj 4.0

i believe the 96+ were the ones with 31 spline shafts and disc brakes, some had posi... not 100% on the year but someone else will chime in im sure

this is my second axle swap in this jeep in 4 years and im ready to swap up, i dont mind the drum brakes so i dont need a newer 8.8 axle but if the 8.8 axle with disc brakes is just a simple swap bolt on sweet..
but im sure some modify work is needed

you need to cut off the leaf spring perches on the 8.8 and weld them back on up top, the explorer is a spring under axle design, also you need to weld on shock tabs... and if you were going to swap it in and pay the same price at the junk yard for a newer one with disc brakes as you would an older one with drums/ smaller shafts... why would you get the lesser of the two?

FOUND THIS IN 2 SECONDS ON GOOGLE

I found some good specs and info on this earlier, so here ya go.

Here is a guide for the purchase and build-up of the Ford 8.8 rear axle and its compatibility and performance in a Wrangler or Cherokee.

There are many different variations of the Ford 8.8 axle. One of them is best suited for the use in a Jeep and that would be the Explorer (or Mountaineer) 31 spline 8.8. If you have found one off a Aerostar, Mustang, F-150 etc, you should really pass it up and look for a Explorer axle if you wish to retain a similar track width on your Wrangler. Trying to start your build-up with the wrong axle will be frustrating and expensive although you may have picked it up for cheap in the beginning.

Ford 8.8 assembly specs:
Cover bolt 28-38 ft.lbs.
Pinion bearing preload 16-29 in.lbs.
Pinion bearing preload 8-14 in.lbs (used)
Ring gear backlash .008-.015
Ring gear bolt to case 70-85 ft.lbs
Side bearing caps 70-85 ft.lbs.


Explorer 8.8 Measurements:
Weight (complete assembly w/ brakes etc.): 174 lb.
O.D. of tubes: 3.250".
Tube thickness: .250" (some are .188”!)
Ring gear diameter: 8.800".
Ring gear bolts: 7/16" dia. (qty. 10).
Pinion diameter/splines: 1.625 / 30.
Axle shaft/splines: 1.320 / 31.
Rotor thickness (where it mounts to axle is .250").
Overall width 59.625" (the F8.8 is .950" narrower then a TJ Dana 35).
(The F-150 8.8 is drum brake and width WMS to WMS is 65.5”.)
Hole diameter for ABS sensor in top of housing: .811".
Bolt size (U-joint flange to yoke) is: 12 x 1.75 x 30 mm
Centerline of housing to C/L of pinion difference is 3.875" toward the P/S.
Pinion offset: P/S to C/L of Pinion, 27-3/4" (no rotor on axle), D/S to C/L of Pinion, 31-5/8" (no rotor on axle). (this measurement is 2.5" more offset to the P/S then a TJ Dana 35).

Specs:
Code Capacity Ratio
43 Open 3200 3.08
41 Open 3200 3.27
42 Open 4.10
46 Open 3.73
45 Open 3200 3.55
D4 Limited Slip 3200 3.73
D2 Limited Slip 4.10
L73 Limited Slip 3.73
L - Limited Slip Differential
C - Conventional Differential

Thanks Chris Overacker for the specs and measurements! see his website link below.

How many splines are the axle shafts?
drivers side is 31 spline for 97 & up Mountaineer, 95 & up Explorer, 30-1/2 inch length - 5 X 4.5 inch lug pattern.

passenger side is 31 spline for 97 & up Mountaineer, 95 & up Explorer, 27-5/8 inch length - 5 X 4.5 inch lug pattern

Can I get 35 spline shafts? Yes, with a little searching I found 28 and 33 splines too. Remeber 8.8 axles are used on many different Ford rigs. Mustangs, Rangers, F150s, Aerostar etc... different axle lengths than the Explorer so if you are looking for aftermarket products make sure you are not looking at something for a Mustang that might not fit an Explorer. For the 35 spline stuff check with Mark Williams site. i dont have a link yet but i will soon.

Do I need a slip yoke eliminator? In my opinion, yes

Can I use my drive shaft that I bought for my SYE/Dana 35 set-up? Yes

Is the 8.8 narrower than a Dana 35? Yes but not enough to make a difference when running most aftermarket wheels.1.5" shorter or so. It doesn't matter unless you try running stock rims w/12.5 or wider tires.

Are the 8.8 shafts stronger than Dana 44 shafts? Yes, also the bearings, pinion and ring gear are also much larger.
Axle shaft Strength and output torque rating by Warn and 4 Wheeler

The axle shaft strength tested by Warn Ind:
F8.8= 6,500 (lb. ft.)
D44= 4,600-5,000 (lb. ft.)
D35C= 4,000-4,300 (lb. ft.)
-------------------------------
COT: Continuous output torque rating
MOT: Maximum output torque rating

(Numbers from January edition of Fourwheeler, page 60.)
Dana 35 rear axle COT: 870 MOT: 3480
Dana 44 rear axle COT: 1100 MOT: 4460
Ford 8.8 28spline COT: 1250 MOT: 4600
Ford 8.8 31spline COT: 1360 MOT: 5100
Dana60 semifloat COT: 1500 MOT: 5500]
(thanks joe and Chile99.)

Will I need that brake proportioning valve from a Rubicon? Maybe

Does the 8.8 offer more ground clearance over the Dana 35 and 44? Not under the differential but the bigger axle tubes lift the rig about 5/8 ".

Is there welding involved? Yes, but the new brackets you put on are much stronger than stock Dana’s. Not a good idea to re use your old Dana 35 brackets

Where do I get brackets?
4x4 Group Buy has Rubicon Express for $225+shipping.
Bob Supplee has Tera for $220 shipped.
DC4WD has Tera for $217 shipped.

Jeepers and Creepers
TeraFlex TMI-ABK-TR $250.99
M.O.R.E. Dana 35 brackets (sku:MORE98700) $290.00
Rubicon Express RE9969 TJ Axle Bracket Kit Rear $274.95
Mad4wd.com (sku:Mad-BKTK-TJ1) $275.00

Link to axle bracket placement on Stu Olson's site
The list above should get you headed in the right direction as far as brackets go. Look around and compare prices as the brackets can be found for $200.00 or less shipped sometimes. Keep this in mind when shopping for any item for your build-up,if you do, you will save a bundle.

Can I reuse my Dana 35 brackets? Yes, but it is not recommended. The stock Dana 35 brackets are sort of flimsy compared to the beefy aftermarket versions. Some of the brackets available are in fact for Dana 35 axles to replace the weak ones that come factory. Reusing the D-35 brackets is time consuming even if you have the right tools, not a good idea IMO

Should I weld the axle tubes to the cast housing? I would if it had been salvaged from a wrecked rig. If it is new on a crate don’t bother.


Will my stock sway bar work? Yes, with a minor modification to a passenger side pinion gusset.

Do all 8.8s come with a limited slip? No, read the tag on the housing or remove the cover. 3L73 = 3.73 gears witha "L"imited slip

Where is the gear break for lockers? There is no break. Same locker for 3.73 to 6.14

Do I need a notched cross pin? Yes for 4.56-6.14 to clear ring gear, or notch a gear tooth.

What year ford explorers do I look for as a donor for 31 spline and disc brakes? 1995 to 2001.

What is so great about 8.8? Parts are everywhere, as in axle shafts, covers, brake parts etc..

What's not so great about the 8.8? Weak stock carrier, replace with a carrier type locker like ARB or Detroit (not a lunch box type) this will cure the problem.

Spun axle tubes: Simply weld the tubes into the diff housing before they spin. You are welding to cast steel so now would be the time to ask for a professional's opinion. I have heard of guys tossing the works in a oven before welding, some just go at it cold. Both say their way is right.

Thin stock diff cover: Get some armor.

(my axle was new surplus and had not been in a collision, i know exactly where it has been from mile one and it is not welded. I don't believe my wheeling style will cause me problems, however i do keep a close eye on the plug welds.)

What kind of locker can I get?
$690.48 ARB SELECTABLE AIR LOCKER
$342.69 AUBURN GEAR - HIGH PERFORMANCE LIMITED-SLIP DIFFERENTIAL
$424.22 AUBURN GEAR - PRO SERIES LIMITED-SLIP DIFFERENTIAL
$535.72 DETROIT LOCKER
$229.59 E-Z LOCKER - FITS IN FACTORY NON-POSI CASE
$641.96 EATON - ELOCKER SELECTABLE LOCKING DIFFERENTIAL
$388.20 EATON - POSI LIMITED-SLIP DIFFERENTIAL
$209.04 FULL SPOOL - 31 SPLINE - STEEL
$118.46 MINI SPOOL - 31 SPLINE - C-CLIP COMPATIBLE - STEEL
$348.40 ORIGINAL STYLE POSI - COMPLETE
$261.52 POWERTRAX - LOCK-RIGHT LOCKER - FITS IN FACTORY NON-POSI CASE
$381.94 TRUTRAC LIMITED-SLIP
(prices will vary)

What is the bolt pattern? 5 on 4.5” just like stock TJ/YJ wheels.

Will my Jeep lug nuts fit the 8.8? In most cases, yes.

What do I do with the speed sensor? leave it in place.

Where to buy?
Car-part.com
www.ok4wd.com
wallysheata, Ariel Performance
www.alljeep.com
www.rockequipment.com
to name a few.

How much do they cost? Free to $1500.00 but you can find them new for around $500.00 in their stock form complete disc to disc.

What do I need for a swap into a tj?
Here are some things I used Original Poster into a TJ)


-TeraFlex Bracket kit $200.00
-ARB $630.00
-U.S. Gears 4.56 $185.96
-Master install kit (Timken) $89.00
-Crane diff cover $190.00
-Napa brake line kit P/N 380528 $17.49 (x2)
-T-hose NAPA P/N 380889 $29.99
-ZJ E-brake cables (drivers and passenger side)
Mopar P/N 52008904 & 52008905 $23.00 NAPA P/N 95533 (right) 95322 (left). (not for YJs)
-Driveshaft adapter: Spicer 2-2-1379 $32.86
-Flange bolts Ford P/N N800594-S100 $1.29 (x4)
-'03 TJ Rubicon (w/disc) proportioning valve P/N 5083808AA $74.00
-3/16" hard brake line about 40" & 18" $5.00

HELPFUL SITES be sure to check these out:
Stu-Offroad
Dome & Detour
8.8 Swap
J.E. Towle / DPG Offroad
Chris Overacker / CODE 4x4
Stormtrooper
4x4 Wire Links
The Ranger Station Tech Library
The Ranger Station Tech Library 2

YJ & XJ STUFF:

From M.O.R.E.
-XJ Installation Kit P/N 98600 84-2001 XJ $165.00
-XJ E-Brake Cable Kit P/N EB3 Disc Brake F8.8 Only $118.00
-Special Yoke P/N 221379 F8.8 to 1310 U-Joint $40.00

From Dealership:
-Mopar spring perches $12.00
-Tabs for shock mounts $5.00
-ZJ ebrake cables from the dealer (for XJ install) $65.00
-Flange from spicer dealer $30 (have seen this go from $20-$50)





Specs:
Code Capacity Ratio
43 Open 3200 3.08
41 Open 3200 3.27
42 Open 4.10
46 Open 3.73
45 Open 3200 3.55
D4 Limited Slip 3200 3.73
D2 Limited Slip 4.10
L73 Limited Slip 3.73
L - Limited Slip Differential
C - Conventional Differential
Code Ratio
41 3.27
43 3.08
42 3.45
44 3.73
45 3.55
47 4.10
72 3.08C
74 3.45C
82 3.08C
84 3.45C
85 3.55C
86 3.73C
87 4.10C
89 (1992-1998) 4.10C
89 (1999-2001) 4.56C
91 3.27C
92 3.08C
95 3.55C
96 3.73C
97 4.10C
F4 3.45L
F5 3.55L
F6 3.73L
F7 4.10L
K6 4.10L
D2 3.45
D4 3.73L
D7 4.10
R5 3.55L
R6 3.73L
R7 4.10L

Some of the ones on the second list do not apply to the Explorer 8.8 (like the 4.56 one) as this list covers rangers too.

wow much appreciated im not scared to do the work but tis not as easy as people have rumored to be.. so if i go with the ford 8.8 im lookin at about a grand in parts and labor for weilding... thank you so much for your time.. i think im going to do it and your right minus well go for disc brakes.

no not a grand at all man... Iron Rock makes a direct swap kit for for 8.8 into the xj, and that kit is even over kill for what you need as it includes a truss.. look here http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merc...ROR&Product_Code=IR-XF88BK&Category_Code=F88S

as you can see if you just piece it together without the truss youd be about $120. and if you cant weld, add the cost for a case of beer for a buddy who can... if you ordered the right parts before hand I bet you could swap it the same weekend, if not the same day you pulled one from the junk yard... just sayin

isnt there something about the driveshaft as well? something about a flange style yoke, or somethin? maybe it was in breezio's post, cant say i read the entire thing.

xcm said:

isnt there something about the driveshaft as well? something about a flange style yoke, or somethin? maybe it was in breezio's post, cant say i read the entire thing.

Click to expand...

if he purchased the IRO bracket kit im pretty sure its included, but yes he needs a flange to 1310 u joint adapter to run the stock driveline or sye driveline

Use the flange off a ranger or aerostar, its a 1310 like the xj's so your DS will clip right in and the flange from ranger/aerostar bolts right up to the explorer ones.

Or get the 1310/1330 conversion ujoints at the auto parts store. Your call

ill be the one to say this. no. the older drum brake axles are not smaller axles/less splines. i have on that i pulled personally, and have it sitting beside my garage. i counted the splines, and they are 31 spline also.

great kit for cheap.. i called my local pats gear box (they rebuild rear ends) those guys wanted 700-1400 to rebuild my rear end...so ill be buying this kit from iron and finding a 8.8 axle..i did not read anything in this kit for the drive shaft nor have i read anything on it sayin i need to convert flanges.. but ill look somemore

All explorer 8.8s even the older ones with drums have 31 spline shafts. The 8.8 i used to run in my rig was 31 spline and it had drums.

On the proportioning valve, a ZJ one will work just fine
After converting from a 8.25 with ZJ discs to an 8.8, and comparing them side by side, the backing plates are nearly identical, only being a few digits off on the part #s

You will also need parking brake cables, some have had success modifying XJ cables, or using YJ cables, I got lucky and the XJ I got my 8.8 from had the lokar parking brake kit. Highly reccommended, as it works quite well.

And no problems welding the tubes without preheating, as its cast steel, not cast iron. Three equally spaced stich welds about 1 - 1.5" long on each tube, used 7018 and a couple passes to get it done.

You have to get a different flange or the conversion u-joint. Have to.
It takes 2 seconds to pull a flange off a ranger or aerostar. They work perfectly with your current XJ shaft and u-joint.


For parking brake cables grab some off of a WJ. They can be fitted to your hand brake and the 8.8 with very limited effort.

Cut the hard line for the brakes and retain the rubber line. It is longer than stock xj line, and bolts right up to the hard line on your jeep.

definitely weld the tubes.

You dont HAVE to do a prop valve, had great luck with stock. If you choose to do one you can but it is NOT neccessary.

okay so i found a danna 44 from a jeep i know it bolts up directly to mine but this dana 44 has abs and on my jeep i do not have abs.. will i have a problem still bolting this axle into mine or do i just cut off the abs wires leading into the plate?

the only reasone why im considering this is its better than a 8 1/4 and im on workers comp so it would be nice to spend 250 vs. 500 or so

assasineee88 said:

okay so i found a danna 44 from a jeep i know it bolts up directly to mine but this dana 44 has abs and on my jeep i do not have abs.. will i have a problem still bolting this axle into mine or do i just cut off the abs wires leading into the plate?

Click to expand...

Nope, just unplug the fuse!

well that doesnt make sense because i stated i do not have abs breaks so why would i pull the fuse if its not there? not to sure you know what your talking about.. the question is will the abs brakes interfer with a non abs brake vehicle? i know there is wires and if there not hooked up is there an piston that locks the breaks up internally? or if i dont hook them up ill be just fine?