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Transmission removal and install

F

flynn78us

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Frankfort, OH
Does anyone have a good write up on this? I am doing it next week before it gets to cold. Any help is greatly needed. Also what is the life span of these torque converters? Can I use my old one or am I wasting my time?
 
Remove the inspection plate on the bottom of the transmission, remove the torque converter bolts, unhook all the lines and wires, take the shifter apart up top, support the engine and transmission with something other than cement blocks and 2x4s, unhook the drive shafts, remove the various bolts from around the bell housing, unbolt the cross member and lower the transmission.

Then do it all again backwards.

What year is this Cherokee?
 
One thing I will say, is once you get it out, find some bolts the same thread pitch as the top 2, but about 2" longer.

Cut the heads off of them, and then thread them into the top 2 holes in the engine with your fingers. These do not need to be tight at all, but make sure you thread ~ 3/4"-1" into the block.

These will allow you to set the tranny on them to get it lined up roughly while you line up the rest of the stuff, like TC and such. With the trans sitting on these 2 bolts you can slowly slide it up to the block, lining everything up as you go.

Once you get the bell housing against the block, remove them and install the proper bolts.

Now, I haven't done this on a cherokee, but I have used it many times on other vehicles, and it works very well. ESPECIALLY if you are doing this by yourself !!!
 
Undo the top two e14(or is it e12?, correct me if I'm wrong please) bolts first by dropping the tranny crossmember a few inches w/ jack underneath. You will need 3 or more long 3/8" extensions to get to them and maybe a helping hand above to guide the bit to the heads. Anyhow, don't make them the last bolts to undo or you'll have a harder time getting them loose.
 
x2, drop the rear of the transmission a bit and do the top bolts first. I use a ball style swivel/u-joint, a long 3/8" extension and a breaker bar to get them free.
The swivel looks like this:
Vux9Y6anOzFJpiDNgZZceysMnxpv6zQll_bwLfNmMspPxqZw_IdCgphUE1yWjjLx9zEVjQUVQQwye2cXRwiHE_qUviVmqJyupHvkVzbsvwU1jOu-vfJOs3t3-jOWpwXA6sCEk-qXNIWPfELDnsecBCpMn2Dsj3LzbVtox0mot6Po16Ru7vPg4uGyHWKyW23inaTAVbQDyDIp7MHrd4PTxMhss-tt8pw6G86QorOvYOC9nsJw6W6ASBw_t87JXkZniVJpSZ5licvPXV8kyXellyaCDSIHVIWWNWVOhbEeyxwSXQ85M8dBLEW0nSZlCZsqqEjtioCrrAtv80wXSvBRrKpt


Roughly in this order:
1) Inspection plate
2) Torque converter bolts
3) electrical connectors, shift linkage, etc.
4) drive shafts
5) put jack under pan
6) cross member
7) lower and get to top bolts
8) remove

Also, make sure you have the jeep lifter high enough to pull the transmission with jack out from under.
 
hmmm, glad everyone chimed in this info will be very helpful. Doing it by myself and in a gravel driveway. do I need to put the jeep on jackstands or can I do it on all tires on the deck?
 
If the jeep is stock (no lift) then best to lift one side at least 8-12 inches and the other side a good 18-24". I lifted the drivers side the most. I put the jacks stands on cement blocks under the front axle (4WD jeep), and I slide tire ramps under the front tires once I had it up for added safety. Had to use 4x4 wood blocks on the Hyd Jack to get it high enough. I left the rear tires on the ground with stops under the rear tires to keep it from moving.
 
TRCM said:
One thing I will say, is once you get it out, find some bolts the same thread pitch as the top 2, but about 2" longer.

Cut the heads off of them, and then thread them into the top 2 holes in the engine with your fingers. These do not need to be tight at all, but make sure you thread ~ 3/4"-1" into the block.

These will allow you to set the tranny on them to get it lined up roughly while you line up the rest of the stuff, like TC and such. With the trans sitting on these 2 bolts you can slowly slide it up to the block, lining everything up as you go.

Once you get the bell housing against the block, remove them and install the proper bolts.
Click to expand...

i seem to recall this working on AT but not MT transmissions? or vice versa? can anyone confirm?


Talyn said:
x2, drop the rear of the transmission a bit and do the top bolts first. I use a ball style swivel/u-joint, a long 3/8" extension and a breaker bar to get them free.
The swivel looks like this:
Vux9Y6anOzFJpiDNgZZceysMnxpv6zQll_bwLfNmMspPxqZw_IdCgphUE1yWjjLx9zEVjQUVQQwye2cXRwiHE_qUviVmqJyupHvkVzbsvwU1jOu-vfJOs3t3-jOWpwXA6sCEk-qXNIWPfELDnsecBCpMn2Dsj3LzbVtox0mot6Po16Ru7vPg4uGyHWKyW23inaTAVbQDyDIp7MHrd4PTxMhss-tt8pw6G86QorOvYOC9nsJw6W6ASBw_t87JXkZniVJpSZ5licvPXV8kyXellyaCDSIHVIWWNWVOhbEeyxwSXQ85M8dBLEW0nSZlCZsqqEjtioCrrAtv80wXSvBRrKpt
Click to expand...
a standard universal joint swivel works as well. to limit flop, wrap it in 4-8 wraps of blue painters tape.the more wraps the more resistant to flop it'll be.
 
it probably won't work on a manual trans, as you must engage the shaft/clutch pressure plate & disc long before you get that close.

OP mentioned a torque convertor, so I assumed he was talking auto trans
 
no one mentioned the tranny cooler lines...those are fun. I was able to ge them out with pliers, but had to buy the seal kit for reistalling. Take a close look at the order of plastic spacers and O-rings that come out.

Painters tape on the universal socket, interesting. I use electrical tape, my buddy uses a O-ring.

gravel driveway, ugh. Good luck! The higher the better when jacking the Jeep. I'm glad I had the tranny jack that allowed us to tilt it front/back and side/side.
 
RenegadeT said:
no one mentioned the tranny cooler lines...those are fun. I was able to ge them out with pliers, but had to buy the seal kit for reistalling. Take a close look at the order of plastic spacers and O-rings that come out.

Painters tape on the universal socket, interesting. I use electrical tape, my buddy uses a O-ring.

gravel driveway, ugh. Good luck! The higher the better when jacking the Jeep. I'm glad I had the tranny jack that allowed us to tilt it front/back and side/side.
Click to expand...


Lowrange2 said:
Remove the inspection plate on the bottom of the transmission, remove the torque converter bolts, unhook all the lines and wires, take the shifter apart up top, support the engine and transmission with something other than cement blocks and 2x4s, unhook the drive shafts, remove the various bolts from around the bell housing, unbolt the cross member and lower the transmission.

Then do it all again backwards.

What year is this Cherokee?
Click to expand...

Just sayin... :D
 
Its a 98 2 door I picked up for 480oo that needs a tranny. My little brother in law gets his learners premit on Dec 20th so I am rushing to get this thing done.
 
So the saturday after thanksgiving I am doing a unkyard run if anyone knows of a good on with A. 97 and up XJ and B. a 95-98 VW Jetta and wants to meet I will be going to one somewhere.
 
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