LA Link and Joint size Questions

With my steering made out of 1.5" .250wall with 3/4" Heims, I am debating how to build a Long arm system for my rig.

what about 1.5" .250 and 3/4" heims like my steering, for Long arms? that way i have the same Heims all the way around.. makes it easier to replace and keep spares..

Most people say that 2" .250wall with 1.25" Heims is overkill.. and overkill = Good.. but can i get away with less, and not regret it?

:rof:

Personally, I would never run anything less than 2"x.250" DOM and a 1.25" shanked joint. Maybe some 2x2x.250 square tubing and matching square tube adapters if I was going a budget route. The reason I dont like a 3/4" joint for a LCA is because of the abuse it'll see. Yes it could be strong enough to withstand the forces of the suspension, but when you add in say the whole weight of the rig landing on the arm/joint on a rock, I worry. Now for an UCA, I can see getting away with a smaller setup since it wont see those additional forces. Smaller then a 2" daimeter tubing is alot more likely to bend, even in heavy wall. Bill, RCman, runs 1.75"x.375" DOM direct tapped for 1.25" shanks. I know he's bent them and will be upgrading tubing size.

I run 2.25"x.375" DOM for my LCA's and 1.75"x.120" DOM for my UCA. 1.25" shank Ballistic joints all the way around with 5/8" bolts.

Go 2in 1/4 wall DOM and nothing less on your lowers or you will bend them if you play in the rocks much. I have seen plenty of rigs with 2in 1/4 wall that have there lowers bent up pretty good, they have long lowers so it makes them a lot easier to bend though. For heim joints on the lowers use 5/8 bolts. What type of suspension are you building? 3 link or 4 link with a trackbar or radius arms. Different setups will need totally different joints. Give us more info.

jeepboy381 said:

Go 2in 1/4 wall DOM and nothing less on your lowers or you will bend them if you play in the rocks much. I have seen plenty of rigs with 2in 1/4 wall that have there lowers bent up pretty good, they have long lowers so it makes them a lot easier to bend though. For heim joints on the lowers use 5/8 bolts. What type of suspension are you building? 3 link or 4 link with a trackbar or radius arms. Different setups will need totally different joints. Give us more info.

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I'm thinking a 3 link radius for the front, Clayton's 3 piece cross member with home built links

If you build a 3 link radius arm you will want hard joints all the way around. I am running the ballistic joints on my lowers "2.63in" and really like them but greasing them is not fun. I have to back out the set screw and loosen the tension on the pivot ball or they won't take grease. Once I have done that I take out the grease zerk and tighten the retainer back down. Johnny joints are awesome, no messing with preload and they take grease easily, i highly recomend them. For my uppers I am running evolution machine joints, they are the best of the best and rebuilabe. Much better than FK heims.

If it were me I would run 5/8 bolts everywhere you can, use 1-1/4 shank heim joints everywhere you can, 2in 1/4 wall DOM on the lowers, evolution machine small joint on my upper, and 1-3/4 DOM for my upper. If you can a separated 3 link would be way better than a radius arm setup, building a mount off the inside of the frame rail wouldn't take long.

http://stores.evojoints.com/StoreFront.bok. "check these out!"