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U-bolt eleminators on the cheap

zachandandy

NAXJA Forum User
NAXJA Member
Location
Patterson, Ca
I was doing some research on moving my rear axle back about 1.5" and came across tnt's UBE kit. After looking at their kit, I thought why not just weld a flat plate to the top of the existing perch. I then found these http://www.metalplatesource.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=66_103_113&products_id=458 5/8" thick plates with the 4 holes 4"x 8" for $18 each. Drill the holes for the center pins and weld them on. Replace your u-bolts with bolts and your done. Can't see how this wouldn't be at least as strong as the replacement perches that TNT uses. Has anyone tried this? Comments or concerns?
 
haven't tried it. it sounds like your idea would work, but i don't think it would hold up to much abuse without some sort of support on the ends.

so after staring at the pic from tnt's site for a little bit i think you could make these much cheaper
1. get some rect tubing 5x3x1/4 or 6x3x1/4, at least 18in long. don't want to sell yourself short
2. get a 2.75 hole saw
3. look at a spring perch and measure how high you want it to sit off the axle
4. copy the spring perch dimensions on the rect. tubing and cut out
5. use your top plate as a template for hole pattern, or just make your own. top plate should be at least 3/8 thick
 
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I was doing some research on moving my rear axle back about 1.5" and came across tnt's UBE kit. After looking at their kit, I thought why not just weld a flat plate to the top of the existing perch. I then found these http://www.metalplatesource.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=66_103_113&products_id=458 5/8" thick plates with the 4 holes 4"x 8" for $18 each. Drill the holes for the center pins and weld them on. Replace your u-bolts with bolts and your done. Can't see how this wouldn't be at least as strong as the replacement perches that TNT uses. Has anyone tried this? Comments or concerns?
It will work fine-I used 2 spring plates per side from ruffstuff specialties that will move the axle forward or back 1" or so-simply weld in place and use bolts instead-
http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/25J-UPLT.html
 
TnT is a NAXJA sponsor and they make a high quality product. I've personally run their U-bolt eliminators and they are stout as hell. My recommendation is to go with TnT.

NAXJA members get 10% off on their products too.
 
10%off $139 is still $125. 2 5"x5" 1/2" thick steel plates with the 4 9/16" holes drilled in them would be $21. Install would be easier due to not having to remove the old perches. Another $10-$20 in hardware and your done. I seriously doubt the TNT brackets are stouter than 1/2" steel. I'm sure they sell great products and it's good that they are a naxja sponsor, but I don't see paying more, to work more, for the same end result.
 
Heres mine made from scratch. 3/8s that is which was way overkill and took forever to cut which i shoulda used oxy acetylene. Did you say 5/8 thick?

Tig'd together with huge bevels for full penetration and stick welded to the axle with those hard ass rods.
Used 1/2" grade 8s with grade 10 washers that actually fit and locking nuts (non nylon)
This was also over kill but the grade 8s is a must and I guess better safe than sorry. I would just fab it up so you have more than one point of failure, I mean support lol. For example I got 2 sides welded inside and out and if one weld cracks I got 4 more. (Not gonna even knock on wood considering I used the hard shit which my friend doubled over, again overkill)
downsize-42.jpg


Before welding but was worried about getting it too hot the whole time. Axles and carrier stayed in and welded the tubes also with the stick.
1228102031.jpg
 
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If and when I get around to doing this, 1/2" thick 5"x5" plates with the 4 mounting holes drilled are $10.50 each. That leaves 0 fab work. Weld them to the spring perches and your done. 1/2" is thick enough I could counter sink some bolts and bolt to the perch for additional strength. 3/4" 5"x5" plates are only $14.50 ea, and my idea eliminates the fab work. They even drill the 4 mounting holes. Drill center pin holes and weld. No grinding off perches and setting pinion angle. May go 3/4" and countersink 3 bolts into the perch for added assurance of strength.
 
What about using 2x6 channel iron from a metal yard? I can bet it would be 10 bucks for both sides... It's .75 cents a lb at a metal yard and 2x6 channel can be notched for the axle tube and still sit on top of the original spring perch. Zach 3/4" is way unneeded.. Unless your looking for lift too have fun concentrating your heat to the 3/4" steel as you weld it to maybe a 1/4" thick spring perch...

That 1/4" spring perch can be just as structurely strong as your 1/2" because of all the bends and how well it's welded to the axle tube... I predict Your flat plate welded to the old perch breaking if it's not done right. (it takes alot more heat to melt/weld/penetrate 3/4" steel than the thin stuff on your spring perch) that's why when tnt's idea where u weld around the axle tube is a better idea.
 
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I admit the 2x6 tube sounds like an even better idea, especially since I have a 10' stick on the side of the house. Now it would just be the cost of hardware. Add another to the list of projects.
 
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