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Slider build

MaxxXJ

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Bakersfield CA
I used
2x3x 1/8" tubing 20 ft stick $57
1x2x1/4" tubing. I bought 10 ft at $.75 a lb (35lbs)
1/4" flat plate I had laying around
Some self tapping bolts 3/16"x 1" is what I used
Total cost was still under $100(so far)
Now to begin
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I cut it to 5'4" for my jeep, your jeep may be different depending on how much you trimmed
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I cut the corners to 45 degrees not only for looks but to help on or off the rocks
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I lucked out in the sense that I didn't need to cut my pinch seam, I can weld it up no problem
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Flat side on the bottom
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This is how thick that smaller tubing is... I don't think it's going to be bending on me :)
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This is as far as I've gotten for today, I'll take more pic's tomorrow as I finish it up. I plan to Stick weld it all with 7018 rod and bolt it up through the pinch seam as well for added support. And i plan to cap the ends on my sliders too,Not this go around but I plan on adding more door support later when I get more $
 
I like mine to stick out alot further so I can still use them to pivot around without taking out the skins!
 
Here is the finished slider, one of my friends feels that it's gonna snag on a rock or something
Mocking it up before welding it
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All welded up, just sitting there to see of I liked it
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And I did so I primed and painted it
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Hope it's sticking out far enough to work like I want it to.
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That is it for now, any questions or advice is welcomed!
 
taper the outer legs into the main bar at the ends. having it stick out parralel the whole way is asking for trouble
 
Looks like you bilut it inside-out,wheres your pinch seam mounts?I tapered my ends in all 3 dimensions.
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taper the outer legs into the main bar at the ends. having it stick out parralel the whole way is asking for trouble
That was a thought of mine, was thinking about torching the inside folding it in and welding it in place but I ran out of daylight, I may still do it over the weekend. I'm not going to calico until Halloween weekend.

Looks like you bilut it inside-out,wheres your pinch seam mounts?I tapered my ends in all 3 dimensions.
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I flush mounted my 2x3 tubing to the pinch seam and drilled into it there. I originally wasn't going to build the outer tube but after talking to others I was convinced I needed it to stop body damage
 
Here we go, really ghetto quick job but I cut the inside with a torch and hammered the ends in, welded the ends to the 2x3 and welded the cut back up, here she I'd now... No more snagging issues I hope :)
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Slightly different concept then most of us have done. Running the main fore/aft tube right against the pinch seam/doing away with the separate pinch seam angle mount. Should be a little stronger then the "standard" design.

Personal experience: the 1/8 wall tube is a little too thin. I thought 1/8" wall would be enough, and bent both of mine the first time I used them. Suggest plating the bottom of both your inner tubes. Use a piece of 1/8" X 3" flat stock.

Looks nice :thumbup:
 
If you don't mind another opinion I will offer some advice based on my experience.

I would add another leg on the front end of the rails to the frame and use a piece of angle so that it also mounts to the bottom of the frame rail. I say this because 1) the existing two legs are placed toward the center of the rails. You need more support on the ends (mostly the front which will see more rock action) to reduce the amount of leverage placed on the rail. And 2) mounting it underneath the frame rail instead of just on the side will strengthen it a lot.

I say that because I had some Rocky Road rails back in the day and they were like yours in many ways. They flexed up into the rockers. I added two legs with mounting points on different planes and that made them much stronger.
 
I flush mounted my 2x3 tubing to the pinch seam and drilled into it there. /QUOTE]

Are you just using self-drilling screws?
 
If you don't mind another opinion I will offer some advice based on my experience.

I would add another leg on the front end of the rails to the frame and use a piece of angle so that it also mounts to the bottom of the frame rail. I say this because 1) the existing two legs are placed toward the center of the rails. You need more support on the ends (mostly the front which will see more rock action) to reduce the amount of leverage placed on the rail. And 2) mounting it underneath the frame rail instead of just on the side will strengthen it a lot.

I say that because I had some Rocky Road rails back in the day and they were like yours in many ways. They flexed up into the rockers. I added two legs with mounting points on different planes and that made them much stronger.

This^

I have aj's offroad sliders which are supposed to be the best, I still smashed one into the rocker. Now theres a 1/8 inch gap on the rear part of my passenger slider.

Tie them in.

And that outer slider design is not good.

When I did this-
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The smooth outer tube worked very well.
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