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WJ axles into my new XJ?

palesmythe

NAXJA Forum User
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Tyler
Hello all! I'm a long time lurker and can't seem to find what I'm looking for. Last week I bought an 89 4.0 4x4 Cherokee Laredo. She's got 114k on the clock. I purchased her from the original owner. Ultimately my goals are to have a reliable daily driver first and foremost. Secondly the Jeep will be used for road trips, camping trips, and out on the deer lease. 33's are as large as I would consider going and I'd rather cut fenders than lift any more than is required. I have a 1999 4.7 4x4 Grand Cherokee Limited from which to pull parts. The engine threw a rod through the block but it's otherwise not in bad shape aside from sitting too long. For my purposes, can the complete axles be swapped into the XJ and be reliable performers? I realize the D44A has it's shortcomings. Properly trussed, is it feasible? Can I put an aussie or selectable locker in it without using the stock gerotor system or are they incompatible with a locker designed for a standard D44?
 
Dont bother, and what rear axle is in the xj?

I do believe they make lockers for the 44a's.

But either way your stock xj axles are stonger especially the front hp30 versus the lp30, just put a 1 piece shaft and block of plate in it to get rid of the vaccum actuator.
 
The rear is d35 unless I am mistaken. I was under the impression that all 89 Cherokees had the rear 35, though I have not identified it as such at this point. I'm glad for the response, but with a truss to brace the axle tubes, are the 44a's still weaker?
 
87-89 also could have a d44 rear, rare but you should prolly check on that before polising a turd aluminum housing

Why not pull a 29 spline 8.25?
 
And yes a truss would make it alot stonger....

some truses for the 44 truss it underneath so that you have a better jacking point, jacking on a stock 44a in the center can bend the axle tubes supposedly, i dont like them though because they make it so much easier to hand up on rocks

Just go find a 29 spline 8.25 or xj 44 if you dont plan going bigger then 33's
 
At this point I've already got the 44a. It was free and the budget is small. I've got time and skill more so than money to go buy a new axle.
 
At this point I've already got the 44a. It was free and the budget is small. I've got time and skill more so than money to go buy a new axle.

Yes it could be done, but it's not the easiest or cheapest route. Sell the axles from the WJ and get a non-cad high pinion D30 and a 29 spline 8.25. That will be fine for 33's.


Follow directions in bold

and to save a few bucks just run a one piece shaft and blovk of the vaccum actuator
 
WJ D44a will require cutting of the old coil spring brackets and welding one new ones for leaf springs. It has 5 on 5 bolt pattern you will need different rims that will not match the front axle. It is a D44a and they chew up pinion bearings if you look at them funny.

A used Chry 8.25 from the junkyard should be about $150 and will bolt on.

The D30 and 8.25 is fine with 33's There is no reason not to keep (or convert) the XJ D30 disconnect axle. Lockers and gears will be the lowest priced for these axles and more expensive for the WJ axles.
 
To me it sounds like ur not going to be doing any extreme wheelin. I personally feel if you going to be using your xj 70% on paved roads and 30% dirt roads the dana 35 with 33's will be fine just put a locker in it and if you break an axle shaft just upgrade to chrome moly. I dont think you will break an axle as long as your not flogging it to death spinning the tires excessively etc.
 
Most of my deer lease is dirt roads. I'll be the first to admit that some high speed running, a few creek/pond crossings, and getting a little air-born are likely occurrences. There's not a lot of rock crawling or anything particularly technical. Mostly mud to be honest. Liberal use of the skinny pedal is certain to occur. It will spend most of its time on the road, but the time it spends off road will not be a slow crawl through the bush. We hog hunt at night from the jeep and there's often a chase before all is said and done. If I need 60's at both ends, that's fine. I don't want to replace parts I've already paid to upgrade. I'd rather do this right once and have a bombproof rig I can beat on for a while. I do quite a bit of steep climbing and getting sideways on hills. So minimal lift is preferable. I'm also planning leaf springs at both ends for simplicity and ease of modification/maintenance. I've got plenty of time welding under my belt so the conversion won't be too big a problem. I will not be kind to this little truck. How far do I need to upgrade to be as reliable as is reasonably possible?
 
Sounds like you use yours as I use mine. I have been running it 5 1/2 yrs now, and all I did was a budget lift and a locker in the rear axle, with mud terrain tires. I run 31's, and I do the same stuff you claim, as well as driving across cut over land plots/stumps/trees etc to get to downed deer or to where I need to be to put them down.

Mine has performed excellent, altho @ 350k on the 88's ticker, the trans is starting to get tired, and it may be in need of replacement/rebuild very soon.
 
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On the D30/35? I wouldn't have thought that the tubes would have stayed straight through that sort of abuse. I'm thoroughly impressed if that's the case. I already have a trailer queen and don't need another one. My competition cut '55 CJ5 has a ford 5.0 and d60/70 with welded gears on 4" lift bastard packs and clears 44's. I'm not a competitor, so I don't have to worry about breaking much of anything on it. It's pending sale because it's not really much fun to drive anymore. Where I wheel, nothing is a challenge so it's just driving. I'd be thrilled if I can get away with the stock axles on 33's. '
 
Maybe I don't get as airborne as you might (or maybe you are slightly more abusive than your post indicates), but yes, still have the d30/d35 combo, and the only thing not stock on mine is the locker, tires, budget lift, and the steering (bent it the first year).

Mine is not a disco front end, which helps.

I do need to install a new exhaust header (stock one is REALLY cracked), as well as maybe some new injectors, as mpg has really taken a dump in the last year.
 
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