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Steering decisions

X

xj bmx

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Detroit, MI.
I'm trying to decide on what steering set up to buy. I know most of you are going to say Currie but I dont like the fact that they use waky TRE's that you have to order since I want to be able to buy replacements no matter where I am, since I'm trying to build towards being able to buy replacement parts wile away from home in local parts stores as possible.

I really like the Rustys kit (ya, ya, my jeep will go out of control and kill women and children) but since it uses the stock TRE's how do you think they will hold up with 35s? (I'm an easy wheeler by the way)

I'm also eyeing the JCR one ton kit but now I have to drill out the knuckle and ream it or use one of ruff stuffs inserts (i think that will work) unless theres another option.

I'm also thinking of just going with the v8 zj deal but then it leaves me with the stock drag link which I imagine Isent the beefiest.

What's your opinions than you.
 
After reading JCRs info on their setup it sais that the passenger side tre is drilled and reamed so does that mean every time I replaced it I have to do this?
 
The JCR kit requires that you drill/ream the knuckles, pitman arm, and one of the TREs; so yes, each time you need to replace the TRE it will need to be drilled/reamed. If you look on their site the pictured ES2233L is drilled and reamed so you can connect the 1-ton TRE from the drag link to it.

I am going to be using this setup (OTK 1-ton steering) except I sourced my own parts rather than buying from JCR (though I did order their poly bushings). At this point I can't comment on how well it work but what I can say is that I realized I may need spare parts and planned ahead. I just picked up an extra one of those ES2233L TREs from rockauto ($10-$30) and plan on drilling/reaming it ahead of time and just keep it in the Jeep somewhere. That way I have the spare available and the other 3 TREs are parts you can just get from a parts store.
 
also consider the iron rock off road kit as well.
 
xj bmx said:
After reading JCRs info on their setup it sais that the passenger side tre is drilled and reamed so does that mean every time I replaced it I have to do this?
Click to expand...

xj bmx said:
Would you happen to know why you have to drill and ream that tre if they are factory gm one ton? What does gm use and why can we?
Click to expand...
it sounds like you cant handle a simple reaming on a part you MAY replace every 2-3 years.... stick to stock stuff then. reaming a tre takes 5 minutes, people will complain about EVERYTHING....

All of jcr's stuff uses the same reamer you need for installation... not difficult at all.
 
xj bmx said:
Would you happen to know why you have to drill and ream that tre if they are factory gm one ton? What does gm use and why can we?
Click to expand...

That hole in the ES2233L TRE was not intended for use with a TRE which explains why it has to be drilled/reamed.

The hole in the ES2233L was intended to be used for a steering stabilizer on the Chevy trucks IIRC; people have just found that you can ream it out and use it for a drag link.

And as XCM said it's something that likely won't need to be replaced very often. If you are going to install this kit yourself you will have to buy the reamer... just keep the reamer somewhere and a few years down the road when (if) you need to replace the TREs you can just ream out another one. :dunno:

If you don't want to bother with that you can just get a V8 ZJ tie rod which is stronger than your stock XJ one and use that with a stock XJ drag link. Will provide a small increase in strength while keeping the stock ends.
 
xcm said:
it sounds like you cant handle a simple reaming on a part you MAY replace every 2-3 years.... stick to stock stuff then. reaming a tre takes 5 minutes, people will complain about EVERYTHING....

All of jcr's stuff uses the same reamer you need for installation... not difficult at all.
Click to expand...

I'm not worried about replacing it as drive way install its more of a , o Shit I'm 1000miles from home and it failed prematurely deal, and since I don't plan on reaming the knuckles but using an insert I'm not sure if the TRE's gets reamed to the same size to use one. But then again I guess I could allwase buy a reamer and Spair own the (dident think that through last night).

But as for JCRs kit some of the reviews on JF say that it requires allot cutting of braketry in order to get it to turn lock to lock. Now is this guy an idiot or is this common?

Also I got a nice pm about the serious offroad kit, verry similar to JCRs kit but with machined flat spot for a wrench to adjust, and come with two anti roll bushings.

So now my choices are between JCR and Serious shoot.
 
My Iron Rock kit was completely bolt on. Carry a spare joint or two if you're worried, maybe a couple tapered inserts, unless you get the 5/8" kit, and some hardware. They use the same joints at each end.

Also, there are many threads detailing the various steering kits.
 
I've been searching alot but it seems the more I look more I find complications that people have.

A lot of it seems to be from beeing at 6.5" of lift, Im really trying to hurry this since I have a wheeling trip coming up and I want to get it out of the way and wile workin 65hrs a week I don't have time to deal with fitment issues along with a motor swap.

I actually just ordered the currie kit but since their site says "for up to 4 inches" I'm going to cancel and go back to JCR or serious, and now going to look into iron rock.
 
The Iron Rock has no interference issues, but you have to pull the end to adjust and you have to lube the joints periodically, but pbbbffft.
 
I really like the iron rock kit especially since it uses the same rod ends all over, but the fact that it Isent compatible with stock wheels, and I will be running my stockers for a few more months so unless it only needs a small spacer I can't go with that.

*edit*
I just read the install manual and it say you must have 1.250" worth of spacers to use stock wheels.
 
Last edited:
Do you need to install the steering immediately? I'm running somewhere around 4-4.25" backspacing. I think the offset was -12.
 
Darky said:
Do you need to install the steering immediately? I'm running somewhere around 4-4.25" backspacing. I think the offset was -12.
Click to expand...

Basically yes, I wrecked my drag links TRE wile getting it out of the pitman arm, and then tacoed my tie rod by using a jack under it to aligning my upper control arms. (i was anticipating buying a kit) and we have a trip in October.
 
i saw it mentioned earlier and if you dont like the reamed tre with the jcr kit then you should go with the serious offroad kit. They are very similar, i believe the serious offroad kit uses slightly thicker walled tubing as well. its also 25 dollars cheaper and the passenger side tre does not require reaming, it does still require reaming of the pitman and knuckles but thats the price you pay to run beefy steering, and its worth it.
 
The Serious kit is sightly thicker, cheaper and has flat spots machined in them to adjust. I've been talking to them and the passenger tie rod end does need too be drilled and reamed when it comes time to replace the one they send is ready to go. This probably should be on the site tho (hint hint).

Like I said ordered the Currie kit but later read that I should be used up to 4" im on 6" but with a 3" dropped pitman arm that I would like to ditch. I've read of people doing this before but im going to call them and see what they say. It seems the inverted T would do better at more extreme angles than the inverted Y and be easier to got OTK if need be.

I'm going to do a lot more searching until the the Currie kit comes in, I know they are considered the top of the top and so far i haven't seen any bad yet about it but something has been drawing me to the one ton setup for quite some time now.
 
So another hit to the Currie kit I just found that the drag link end and rod end are on piece. Now I know its a beefy kit and may not need it for a wile but i cant see my self shelling out $120 plus shipping on top of the $500 plus shipping i had to pay for the kit.
 
Serious Offroad said:
Ahem.....
http://www.seriousoffroadproducts.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1113&products_id=86546

http://www.seriousoffroadproducts.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1113&products_id=86546

Replacement TRE's are reamed to the correct taper.
Click to expand...

The serious offroad steering is on my list of stuff to do.

I have ran the RK steering and hated it, the thing is heavy. Heavy is not always a good thing, the heim joints don't last and will need replacing often, and on the road it flops around on the smallest bumps or pot holes.

Currently running the IRO steering with 5/8 hardwear, I hate it also. It also flops and bangs around and adjusting it sucks. Its been on the jeep about a year and a half and I'm in the process of getting parts together to go with the SOR setup. If you jeep sees more road the trails, I would shoot for a product with TRE's and not look at any heim joint setups.
 
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