My Driveline Build - Thoughts and Questions

Hey guys. Finally stepping up, and preparing for my winter project - full drive-line build, from transmission down. I think what I am doing is very common, and I see a lot of conversation on most of what I am doing. Though, I always embrace opinions, thoughts, and experience from those of you more knowledgeable. That said, here's my plans:

Transfer Case:
-2WD low
-SYE
-Possible HD chain?

Rear Axle:
-Ford 8.8 swap w/ Disk Brakes
-4.56 gears
-Some sort of ECTED Locker

Front Axle:
-Keeping D30...
-Chrome-Moly Axle shafts??
-4.56 gears
-Some sort of ratchet/lunchbox locker

Drive shafts:
-Custom. Not sure on size or components, but I can get a killer deal buying the parts from work, and welding/assembling myself. Need to "engineer" it yet!

I think I found the first of components I will be purchasing; the Ford 8.8. Found one w/ Disks for 100 bucks locally. Based on what I've seen on here, that is a decent deal. Ill post up pics..

Also, Found this, and wanted to get thoughts... I think the price is high? I guess its expensive stuff though...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_W0Q...emZ120582381840QQsspagenameZSTRKQ3aMEWAXQ3aIT

I plan to make this my build thread, share pics/thoughts, and again, open to what you have to say so I don't mess this up, I have never geared or build axles on my own before, So I am counting on a bit of guidance from the site.

So, thanks in advance for your input! Can't wait to get this build underway!! :clap:

Additionally... I plan to be running 33's upon completion of this build, and about 5" or so of lift.

I think that price for a R&P and Ected is a bit high. I think you could get a better deal from a Naxja vendor like www.rwkhaussupply.com
What kind of wheeling will you do? What is the max tire size you will use?

I will check out that supplier a bit later...

As for wheeling, "weekend warrior" fits best, as this will probably be my DD for a little while yet. When im out on the trail, light to moderate crawling (rocks, ditches, hills). I avoid the mud, and want the 4 wheel lock for recovery, and general unstopableness!

Long term, I would only be dreaming! I would be happy with this set up for a few years.

For now I would keep the 8.25 and do a selectable or detroit locker in the front. Lunchbox lockers can split the carrier in two in the front. Definitely go with Ten Factory or Nitro alloy axles in the front. You could do alloy axles in the rear but I don't really think its necessary. There are also lots of good brake upgrades for the rear but I just swapped my short brake shoes out for long ones and it helped alot.

Ford 8.8 31 spline from an Explorer is a strong axle and $100 is a good price on the disk brake variant. The 8.8 will handle 35s with no problem if you weld the tubes to the housing. I agree with jeeperjohn however - if you want to run 33s, the 8.25 is good to go with 29 spline shafts, and you can even get alloy shafts + no fabrication! I like the 8.25 much better than the dana turdy five.

I agree with JJ also on the full case lockers (front and rear). The strongest (as per Randy's R&P and Jim Allen) are the Detroit and ARB. If you're going to spend all the $ on gears and setup, why not do it right?

Before you put a ton of money into a 231J or 242 transfer, you might want to consider the flipped Dana 300 option. It's shorter (better drive angles), all gear drive (stronger), can be twin sticked (for 2WD low and front digs), and you can get 4:1 gear sets (lomax) for cheaper than a 231J terralow. A dana 300 can be had for about $200, flip kit with twin stick is about $600, LoMax gear set is $650.

http://www.downeastoffroad.com/HTML/dana300flipkit.htm
http://www.jbconversions.com/products/dana300/

dude if you are just a weekend wheeler and this is your dd what you have listed is plenty.

it's alot of work and a ton of extra money to put a flipped d300 in. why spend 1400 plus shipping when the 231 is plenty strong for a stock drive train. that and you'd only be spending 400 for a sye and rear ds. cheaper if you go hack and tap. then however much from the junk yard for a wide chain and the added components for it.

I will have to look into D300 builds. I have always heard/read about it, but never really considered. I am running the AX-15, so would that "bolt up"?

Have not considered carrier strength to this point... I do have air on my rig... I just have always heard ARB is a little risky for air leaks/punctures. My system leaks all the time too, so its usually hard to maintain pressure above 60psi. For ECTED, I was looking at the Eaton e-lockers. ARB is a bit more... But if I am getting the beef, I am willing to dish out the cash, and fix up my airline (should do that anyway! haha) I would be good with the Detroit in the front. I'd really like to maximize the strength of the D30...

Speaking of front axles, what about a D44? I'd imagine that would be quite a bit of fab work. A decent one could probably be had for less than alloy shafts for the D30, probably stronger too? I would be OK with more fab! I live for it!

Thanks again for your thoughts!

the d300 won't bolt up to the ax15, you'll need a clocking ring. most flip kits will come with a clocking ring. but then there will be floor modification. depending on how you clock it depends on how much you have to modify the floor. then you'll need to build a new crossmember. just do a search on here and on pirate for putting in a d300. most will be doing a doubler, but there is still good info.

ha a front d44 had for less than alloys, could be possible but highly doubt it. and imo it's not worth it. really the only difference is going to be the ring gear/ carrier strength. unless you find one from a tj rubicon you'll be looking into narrowing it or needing a rear axle or spacers to change your bolt pattern.

just stick with beefing up the d30 it'll be fine

aintright said:

the d300 won't bolt up to the ax15, you'll need a clocking ring. most flip kits will come with a clocking ring. but then there will be floor modification. depending on how you clock it depends on how much you have to modify the floor. then you'll need to build a new crossmember. just do a search on here and on pirate for putting in a d300. most will be doing a doubler, but there is still good info.

ha a front d44 had for less than alloys, could be possible but highly doubt it. and imo it's not worth it. really the only difference is going to be the ring gear/ carrier strength. unless you find one from a tj rubicon you'll be looking into narrowing it or needing a rear axle or spacers to change your bolt pattern.

just stick with beefing up the d30 it'll be fine

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Good thoughts. I suppose ill keep my 30 haha Probably keep my 231 also... Might be more than I want to do at this point.

You're from Erie... I lived/went to school there for a couple years. Awesome city! Still go there time to time to visit my gal's family.

D300 you will loose your shift on the fly if that is important to you. but you will be able to do front digs again if that is important to you. You need to modify the shifter though nothing to buy just do it while it is out.
A d300 will also save you from having to buy a SYE, just for you information 231 front yoke works on the D300 for a cheap CV yoke.

You might be able to just redrill the transmission holes to flip the D300 I haven't done a D300 flip yet, also look into cable shifters might be cheaper/ easier.

I did a 231 crawl box to a D300 that has all the clocking positions you could want, with more gearing options.

How much is the 2wd low kit. I don't think you will ever use it, do you ever do rear digs?

You have a few options.

If you want to keep the D30 I would just go with RCV shafts hands down.


another tid bit you can redrill the bolt pattern on a XJ AX-15 to the same spot as the YJ AX-15 which clocks it a couple inches of ground clearance while you get it off.
Some times you need to massage the floor a little.


Also add up all the money you are spending on the T-case it might get close to an Atlas.

I FINALLY got my 8.8 today. I ended up having a few hours free, so I started stripping it down. Here are some pics:









I Dont know exactly what I have here, other than its 3.73 gears haha (open, LS?)

Somethings I realized that I thought was strange about this axle... It had torque arms!? I had an explorer, and all that I have seen had only leaves connecting the axle to the vehicle. I know this one came off a V-8, maybe they added arms for those models?

The other thing... Drum parking breaks.. I thought I was going to get away from drum breaks, and now I have to deal with them again!! Goshh... Is there perhaps a caliper I could look into with a manual parking brake to the disk??

Other observations: Vehicle was 200k miles, gear oil that came out was black, noticed some very small filings in the oil, though I don't think this is a concern, as there was not much.

Would it be worth running new hardline on the axle? The brake fluid looked real clean, and I saw no leaks/cracks. I never ran hardline, just curious on thoughts. I was real careful in taking it off, I only used the 5lb hammer :roll:

I am going to keep stripping down, and cleaning, while on the look for a NP231, and D30 front to start on. Also got to look at getting the "new" stuff in as well! Lots to do, but glad its finally under way!

That little spring thing in the middle is the trac-loc, or limited slip.

Hardlines should be fine if they aren't leaking anywhere.

I'd recommend a lunchbox locker in the rear and a selectable up front. ARB or Eaton E-locker in the D30.

a lunch box locker will be fine, but the cases are known to flex. a full case locker is the better option. i'd say just run the lsd until you can afford a detroit or arb or whatever.

yeah the ebrake is in the drums, it sucks, but the discs are better than drum brakes.

i grew up in the ville. funny you used to live in erie.

The best part of the D-brakes is the drum emergency brakes.Having a separate system is the best you can have!

RCP Phx said:

The best part of the D-brakes is the drum emergency brakes.Having a separate system is the best you can have!

Click to expand...

ahhh good point, but I HATE drum brakes!! After looking a little closer at this system, the one side is broken. The other side that actually had shoes in it was very hard to operate... So, here we go with this!! haha I am running AX-15, so I really need to have a good parking break.

I got all the internals out of the 8.8. I think I am ready to start having some new parts ordered. Also looking for Dana 30 and NP231 to start building. I guess I can sell off this LS 3.73 diff? Not sure what to ask for it... if it is even worth much. Maybe for a Mustang??




Found a Dana 30 at a local junk yard for 100 bucks. I think that is fair... They wanted 350 for the 231! I might just pick up the axle. Hoping a 231 pops up around here somewhere.

keep an eye on craigslist down in the pittsburgh area and pennswoods.net i've seen a few on there occasionally.

yeah $350 is ridiculous for a tcase.

don't forget to take the pinion with it. some mustang dudes may want it. check some local speed shops or post it up on craigslist or pennswoods if no one around here wants it.

So, finished striping the axle down, cleaned up the tubes. One last thing though... THE PINION. I could not get that sucker out, without damaging it. Tomorrow, I am going to pick up a MAPP torch, and see if that works. Any suggestions? I got it to slide about a quartar-inch before I was worried about damaging the threads, so I quit for today.

Got the pinion out. With some PB and propane, it 'bout dropped right out. So, FWIW, I'd like to get rid of these internals... Thought it might be useful to some 8.8 build out there?? Might be more for a mustang build... The components look great, should be worth something!

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?p=245461671#post245461671

Up next, going to pick up a D30 possibly tomorrow, as I am looking to have the day free. Still looking for the NP231... :eeks1:

Are the D30s the same on TJ's? Or are there different mountings? I have worked on both before, and can not recall any significant differences. I will likely be able to get one out of an XJ though. I do not have ABS, should I avoid pulling one with ABS?

They're the same...ZJ/TJ/XJ. ABS won't matter one way or the other.

I'm going to have a built D30/D44 combo for sale in a couple of weeks...PM me for details if you're interested.