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Larger upper control arm bolt

9

98stocker

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Newbury Park, Ventura County, CA
I managed to strip the threads on one of the upper bolts, axle side. So, easy right, cut the bolt, replace. But on a sunday, with nothing open, I could not find a replacement 10mm bolt long enough. I get a 7/16 bolt and figure I would just drill it out. Wrong.

Anybody that has tried this, please enlighten me on what you used to drill out the bushing sleeve. I finally succeeded in getting it large enough to pound the bolt through without destroying the threads completely.

Started with brand new, Irwin bit made for hardened steel. Didn't do it, but made a mess of the bit. Finally stuck a 1/4 rod into my drill motor and taped sand paper on to it. Insert into sleeve and spin for 30 seconds until sandpaper is destroyed. Repeated about a dozen times.
 
I would replace the bushing and the sleeve and use the same 10 mm bolt .... Unless you wana replace that bushing with a flex joint from Currie or Rock Krawler then you can use a much larger bolt.

What upper arms are you running and whats your setup?
 
98stocker said:
I managed to strip the threads on one of the upper bolts, axle side. So, easy right, cut the bolt, replace. But on a sunday, with nothing open, I could not find a replacement 10mm bolt long enough. I get a 7/16 bolt and figure I would just drill it out. Wrong.

Anybody that has tried this, please enlighten me on what you used to drill out the bushing sleeve. I finally succeeded in getting it large enough to pound the bolt through without destroying the threads completely.

Started with brand new, Irwin bit made for hardened steel. Didn't do it, but made a mess of the bit. Finally stuck a 1/4 rod into my drill motor and taped sand paper on to it. Insert into sleeve and spin for 30 seconds until sandpaper is destroyed. Repeated about a dozen times.
Click to expand...

That's why I always said it's VERY difficult to drill out the stock sleeve. I mangled two brand new $$ bits trying to. Something to do with the raised bumps inside the sleeve. It's like a 12 mm sleeve with raised bumps to hold a 10mm bolt. The WJ or ZJ dana 30 bushing is a 10mm sleeve that fits the bolt like a glove and it's what I replaced my burnt bushing with after trying to drill it out.
 
I have a single upper on my front suspension, one radius arm and one single lower. I ordered a Rubicon Express small joint ball that was already drilled out to 1/2" for the link end of the upper, and a Currie Johnny Joint for a 1/2" bolt for the axle end of the upper.
 
Those bumps inside the sleeve are hardened and will eat any drill bit you throw at it unless at a very slow speed and plenty of oil on a drill press. (axle side bushings make that kinda tough!) Use a dremel with a oblong 7/16" grinding wheel. Little by little until the bolt fits. There are 3 bumps on each side of the bushing sleeve. I had to do this when I added Teraflex arms and there has been no movement whatsoever in that sleeve. Just make sure you grind a little at a time and test fit. Too much grinding and you will have an everlasting "clunk".
 
XGarfX said:
Is it ok to run a flex joint on the upper of a radius arm setup? I know for 3 links hard joints should be used at all ends (I have heims on every corner of my 3 link) but I'm not sure about what joints you can run on a radius setup.

http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestore/product.aspx?id=2890

http://www.genright.com/ProductInfo.aspx?productid=SUP2100
Click to expand...

I used the genright on my driver and its great! I had to cut down the bolts a little because they were to long. But its great. Quiet and way better then the stupid bushing I would say. Alot more room to move
 
i used a die grinder and fit 1/2" bolts in mine after not much effort. i found that clevite brand has a slightly larger inner diameter sleeve than moogs. my moogs wouldnt fit a 1/2" bolt without tons of grinding. clevites only required me to grind off the gnurls to fit the bolt.
 
the genright one is on my RK 3 link kit and its also been great. Its easy to remove/install unlike removing those crappy factory bushings!! I think the newest style RK long arms also still use this joint, I know my gen II 3 link does.
 
The best way I know to drill out a hardened metal bushing is with a carbide rotary file. It makes short work of it. The best way to do it is in a drill press so you can get a nice straight hole.
 
So, here we are nine years later. I don’t have Green Junk any more and don’t have a single radius arm.

Has there been any development in a rubber bushing with ~1/2” bolt for Dana 30 factory upper control arms?

With the way I want to use this XJ, I don’t need hard joints. If there is not an “un-box, press in” solution I will happy just continue with 31 year old 10mm bolts because so many XJ/TJ/MJ/ZJ use them with great success but if I can spend 30 minutes fighting with a Harbor Freight bushing press and then drill my UCAs I might.
 
Jk bushings are your solution. I believe they are 13mm and I know they press right in.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 
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