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ARB Locker Air seal tube housing

mcweenie

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Banning, Ca.
Hey Ya'll,

I could not find a thread to help me on this. So does anyone have any information or link for install instructions to replace the brass tube seal housing for a frt HP Dana30?
Tube broke and I am thinkin of doing the replacement myself... Already have the parts to do it. Just want to count all the costs of trying this on my own. Locker is already set and works fine, just need to replace that seal housing with the brass air tube.
 
Hey Ya'll,

I could not find a thread to help me on this. So does anyone have any information or link for install instructions to replace the brass tube seal housing for a frt HP Dana30?
Tube broke and I am thinkin of doing the replacement myself... Already have the parts to do it. Just want to count all the costs of trying this on my own. Locker is already set and works fine, just need to replace that seal housing with the brass air tube.
I have installed a few front ARB's and would be happy to help you with the replacement for a little gas money.
 
Hey thanks John. I'll let ya know when I'm ready and PM ya. In the meantime do you know of any online links or info that I can read up on regarding How To put the piece in. Tere is alot of info i found on locker install, but I wanted to know about that one seal housing replacement only.
 
You have to pull out the diff, then you can just slide the housing off and slide the new one on. Will have to replace the o-rings that are inside it. I just replaced the o-rings in my ARB and it was pretty easy to do. Just keep track of all the bearings and shims while in there.

If you've never had the front diff apart or even seen it done, definitely would be good to have some help.
 
Thanks Sunburned. I have seen it apart and assisted with the install of this locker... just been a awhile and was making sure that i wouldnt be overlooking something if i do it myself.
 
Shouldn't require any adjustment if you keep track of any shims you remove, and make sure they go back exactly where they came from. If it were me, I'd check ring-gear back-lash with a dial-indicator before removing the carrier. Then after re-install, I'd check back-lash again, to insure it's still within specs.
Remember to physically mark the bearing caps so that they can be reinstalled in the exact location from which they were removed. This is critical!
 
Shouldn't require any adjustment if you keep track of any shims you remove, and make sure they go back exactly where they came from. If it were me, I'd check ring-gear back-lash with a dial-indicator before removing the carrier. Then after re-install, I'd check back-lash again, to insure it's still within specs.


Remember to physically mark the bearing caps so that they can be reinstalled in the exact location from which they were removed. This is critical!

The bearing caps will usually have marks from the factory (mine did), but its still good to mark them yourself or at least keep track of the orientation of them.
 
Hey Ya'll,

I could not find a thread to help me on this. So does anyone have any information or link for install instructions to replace the brass tube seal housing for a frt HP Dana30?
Tube broke and I am thinkin of doing the replacement myself... Already have the parts to do it. Just want to count all the costs of trying this on my own. Locker is already set and works fine, just need to replace that seal housing with the brass air tube.

Where did the tube break?
Since it is only a small copper tube it should be possible to cut it @ the break & solder on an extension tube. you Just have to find the parts online someplace.
Just trying to save you the trouble of disassembling the entire diff.
 
Where did the tube break?
Since it is only a small copper tube it should be possible to cut it @ the break & solder on an extension tube. you Just have to find the parts online someplace.
Just trying to save you the trouble of disassembling the entire diff.

The tube isn't copper,its steel!
 
Thanks XJBubba I'll keep that in mind...

The tube looks copper and it broke right at the base. We tried to soder it when it was being installed but wouldnt hold. So we reassembled it and ordered the part so i could get it home.
 
Thanks XJBubba I'll keep that in mind...

The tube looks copper and it broke right at the base. We tried to soder it when it was being installed but wouldnt hold. So we reassembled it and ordered the part so i could get it home.

Thats because while it looks to have some copper plating on it,it is steel.
 
I believe ARB might have used steel in old versions but all newer ARBs use soft copper tubing. They are not brass as the first post states. I would not reccomend Brass as a replacement as it becomes very brittle after soldering and is very stiff.

If you can get the broken portion out clean, simply cut the broken end of the copper off square and use a good silver solder. Will work just like new, done it several times.
 
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