I roll into The Bend In The Road just after dusk on Thursday. I'm scared, confused, and alone. I've finally made my first pilgrimage to speed week.
I reach down and taste the earth. It tastes of salt. I'm thrilled to make my first trek into the great unknown come daybreak.
It's salty. Not even salty, just salt. Salt everywhere. Salt in my mouth. Salt in my eyes. Salt in my socks like sand at the beach.
I've seen enough Bonneville coverage where I should have known what to expect, but it truly is like being on the XXXXing moon. The ground itself seems alien. Rock salt that has been poured over miles of flat ground and then soaked with water,allowed to dry to form crystalline patterns like mountainscapes in miniature. In the early morning, before the dew burns off, the top layer of salt sticks to everything it touches like crunchy white school glue. What you don't expect to see in this environment is a rainstorm.
Apparently, Thor was a little jealous of all the attention given to the god of speed. Just as dusk started to set in and the racers were packing up the pits and heading back to camp it rolled in. Black clouds, thunder, heat lightning in a 360 degree panorama that yours truly has never experienced living in the northwest. I was sitting in camp with some new found friends from the Phoenix, AZ area when the wind set in. we moved the camp chairs and our beers into the lee of the Winnebago to cut down on the feeling of being slowly media blasted with salt. As soon as I was settled in again the rain came dumping down. My hydrophobic desert dwelling friends retreated into the relative safety of their wizened Winnie while myself as a web footed wet lander decided to stay out and drink up the moisture that was falling in shot glass size drops. The ground on the other hand felt more akin to the desert people hiding in the motor home.
The Bend in the Road is the premiere campground just around the corner from the salt. The ground here consists of finely powdered marine life form shells mixed with salt. It has the consistency of expertly laid concrete and absorbs a similar amount of water. I soon found that this combination of dry salt lake bed and water is like some horrible grade-school nightmare of white school glue mixed with powdered chalk.
The laws of physics have yet to explain to me how something can become so sticky and yet so slippery at the same time.
Several Hoons decided they wanted to try their hands at drifting around the campground on the thin greasy top layer of ick. Their antics were reasonably met with screamed obscenities by the owners of expensive fifth wheel trailers. Who were also seen quickly flipping through their intricate insurance policies.
As the final bits of daylight vacated and excitement died down flashes of heat lightning appeared on the horizon and the wind began to pick up again. I was tried to sleep in my jeep due to the kite-in-a-tornado sounds my tent was making, but I could hear people shouting in camp. I got up and realized that the wind was gusting up to 30 mph and my tent, while in no danger of lifting due to several coolers and other gear, was in danger of being torn to shreds. I was standing in the oh-so sticky slippery trying to mudwrestle my tent into a position where I could remove the poles when I spotted a large tent flying through the air twenty yards away and about six feet off the ground. I watched it crash into a canal that runs behind the campground. Being somewhat veteran to the occasional high winds at Bonneville, my neighbors from Phoenix had driven lag bolts into the concrete-like ground with a cordless impact gun. Little did they expect a squall that would turn the ground into a sticky soup.
We approached the canal carefully. The depths of the canal were unfathomable as the banks were made of the same slippery chalky clay as everything else and would invariability trap anyone foolish enough to go down there. Luckily someone figured a way to fashion a lasso out of a ratchet strap. After a few tries we tugged the tent out. Storm weathered, I set out the next morning to see what I had come so far to see.
The smorgasbord of old iron is amazing. There are traditional rods and rats galore, T-buckets, cliché robin's egg blue blown deuce coupes,lead sleds, 60's caddies, streamliners, belly tankers, a stretched nose Fiat X1/9, a 50's cruiser pulling a teardrop trailer, and even some fat kid on a mini-bike wearing the biggest damn sombrero I've ever seen.
Bonneville is a participant's sport as opposed to a spectator sport. It's like going to the drags, that is, if the drag strip was five miles long and the closest lane was a quarter mile away. The soothing voice of the tower transmitting on CB channel 1 calling out ground speed at the one, two, three, four, and five mile mark.Sometimes the voice says “take 'em to impound” which means a land speed record has been broken. Experiencing this should be checked off on your list of things to do before you die.
Quick change rear ends, crank driven Latham-style blowers,
Goodyear LSR's, Moon discs, parachutes, and perfect sunrises oh my. Vintage dirt bikes are the pit bike of choice, but vintage pedal power is prevalent as well. You hear about the “sights and sounds of Bonneville” but it has to be experienced firsthand. How do you put into words the cackle of a dual engined streamliner in the pits having its carbs synced?
The drive to break a record here is catching as the flu and addictive as heroin. Make your own offering to the god of speed.