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D44 question

jeepfreak1020

jeepfreak1020

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Thornton
So Im looking at maybe starting to build a D44 for the front to swap out the D30. Im looking at mostly just getting the housing. Start from scratch and build it all myself. I dont really know much about 44's though. Like what all you have to put on them and such like that. Im looking at getting one just the housing, no knuckles or anything. My plan would be to get a T&T truss with control arm mounts and TB bracket, ballistic fab coil bucket mounts/lower control arm mounts. Alloy shafts. Cast knuckles. 4.56 gears with a ARB. Weld tubes inside the carrier and outside. But what else will I need? What about hubs/unit bearing? I really dont know anything from there on what I listed. I searched to try and find a build thread but couldn't find what I was looking for. Could anyone point me in the right direction? OR help me out here with what else I would need?
 
?

Why not start with a complete assembly? DO you want full width or waggy width?

All the things you listed are a good start...

Depending on what pattern you're running in the rear you'll want to match wheel patterns. If you plan to keep the rear axle stock then I'd suggest swaping the front over to 5 lug and buy adapters for the back. search "Dana 44 5-lug conversion" in google.

If you plan on upgrading the rear at the same time then go with 6 lug all the way around and you won't have to change the front pattern.
 
Last edited:
Im looking at a 76 F150 D44. So I will cut it down to waggy with. And the one I found is real cheap so I might as well start with it. Will it be that hard to find hubs and everything?

I have a XJ44 in the rear right now and I want to keep it. So i wil prob run wheel adapters in the rear to match the front in width and lug.
 
The housings are always the cheap parts. What I'm saying is don't buy a specific housing because it's cheap. Buy it because it's closest to the setup you want to finish with (hp, lp, width, tube thickness)

My $200 Waggy axles quickly became $3000 axles.
 
NJblackdeath4x4 said:
The housings are always the cheap parts. What I'm saying is don't buy a specific housing because it's cheap. Buy it because it's closest to the setup you want to finish with (hp, lp, width, tube thickness)

My $200 Waggy axles quickly became $3000 axles.
Click to expand...

x2, ive got alot of money in my waggys, and suspension.


Heres a good tip, dont underestimate the cost of a custom front axle build, shit adds up real fast.
 
Starboard M said:
Keep the 30, or build a 60. After building mine, I now wish I had built a 60 and skipped the 1/2 ton altogether.
Click to expand...

Ya why do you say that?

I have found a 77 D44 HP for dirt cheap. Long tube needs to be rewelded inside and out as its loose in the tube but thats no problem. The only reason I wana build a 44 is because Im tired of running spacers in the front, and going threw hubs/unit bearing every 5,000 miles. (With spacers and rims Im so wide that I wear them out quick because of all the stress on them) So build the 44 to the width what I want and not have to run spacers, plus have a stronger axle up front to match the beef I have in the rear, and then run 37's here soon. Im just tired of throwing money at the 30 and knowing its not going to keep holding up. Rather just save that money and throw it into something alot stronger.

I guess If I were to keep the 30, I would prob truss it, weld the tubes to the center, C gussets, sleeve the inner tubes, and just keep replacing unit bearings. But all the money could be throwin into a 44 and get it close to where my 30 is now. Then sell my 30 and pay for an ARB and gears
 
[
twodoorXJ said:
x2, ive got alot of money in my waggys, and suspension.


Heres a good tip, dont underestimate the cost of a custom front axle build, shit adds up real fast.
Click to expand...

Why do people build waggy front 44's when there a LP? Whats the point of that? Why not just wate and find a HP?
 
jeepfreak1020 said:
[

Why do people build waggy front 44's when there a LP? Whats the point of that? Why not just wate and find a HP?
Click to expand...

better question is why is a HP better than an LP
 
Dont know about you, but would much rather have a HP, as I hit my HP alot in the rock as it is. With a LP I would prob have taken out my DS or the yoke.
 
jeepfreak1020 said:
[

Why do people build waggy front 44's when there a LP? Whats the point of that? Why not just wate and find a HP?
Click to expand...

For the width. I wanted keep it near stock width as this is my DD but don't have the tools or confidence to cutdown a hp, remove the Cs, put them back on and do this all to a perfect length to run waggy shafts.

I also thought to myself, do I NEED tons?

I'll be running 35's locked front and rear and that should get me pretty far, and I'm not entering any competitions, so the answer was no, I don't need a 60/14b with 40s
 
I'm with starboard on this. Build a 60. I have a 44 and realize I wasted a lot of money. The only thing you gain with a 44 is ring and pinion is bigger. I break alloy stub shafts on 36"s because they are 19 spline and the same size of the d30. The only way I think a 44 is worth it is if you run RCV shafts and slugs but that will cost $1600 just for the shafts. Do it right the first time. One ton.
 
:doh:

Keep your 30. Take the spacers off. Don't get 37s because you don't need them for the trails you do.

I am running a mildly polished 30 (RCVs, ARB, Crane Cover, but yet to do the truss like I did on your old axle or brace the Cs) yet it holds up to a teenager driving on (Semi)hardcore trails. I am on the 100 thousand mile + factory unit bearings running 10 inch wide rims with 2.25" backspacing too.

You really have Jeep upgrading disorder.
 
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