XJ Rocker panel decision...

Hello all. So here is my issue: I have a 88 XJ that is getting a MAJOR overhaul and rebuild. Part of the project is new rocker panels and I am having a hard time making up my mind for them. I am set on the dimensions being 2x6" rounded edge box tubing, starting with a 6' piece on each side and cutting/capping to fit. Now where I am having an issue is deciding on wall thickness. I already have some in the dimensions I need, but it is 3-16 wall and weighs close to 100 lbs or more per side! I would ideally like to go with something like .120 wall or 1/8" the latter being preferred so I get better gas mileage. Now the 3-16 would be much safer in the event of a side impact, would last a lot longer on the trails and I already have it so I would not have to go through the trouble of selling it to buy the other stuff... However, the gas mileage would drop because of the weight and I really don't plan (famous last words I know) on doing any hardcore wheeling or crawling or anything like that for a long time.

So far the rig has front and rear axle swaps to a 98 D30 front and a Ford 8.8 rear. Roughly a 5" lift, front winch bumper (no winch yet though) and soon to be a custom rear bumper. All the floors are getting replaced with thicker steel, welded to the "frame rails" and this rocker tube, with some cross supports 33" tires with 4.10 gears and an AX-15 trans with a 231 T-case. The rockers being the next step in this build, I need to figure out what I am going to do about them as soon as possible so I can get the steel prepped and ready to weld in...

So what do you think, use the 3-16 wall I have, or go with 1/8"/.120 wall tube? Also care to weigh in on which would be better and why? Thanks for your input, it is greatly appreciated.

Paint

Do 3/16, Gas milage will suck either way and I bet you wouldn't see a diffrence from just that.

3/16 wall will not weigh 100lb per side...it's 9.4lb/ft so you're looking at MAYBE 60lb per rocker, probably closer to 50lb.

Check EricXJs rockers out - they're pretty awesome

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/...d-thread-sorts-540357/index7.html#post5107992

I did the 0.125" tube.

http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f58/rockers-75178/

Nitro

I have 2 X 6 3/16" tube rockers on mine. They are mounted all the way inside the cavity previously occupied by the stock rockers. They are supported by 2 X 2 up into the door sills and 1 1/2" X 3" kickers to the frame. I have dropped the vehicle onto the rockers from a couple of feet and they just asked for more. If you aren't gonna do any hardcore rock crawling though, you could use 1/8" wall tube.

dukie564 said:

3/16 wall will not weigh 100lb per side...it's 9.4lb/ft so you're looking at MAYBE 60lb per rocker, probably closer to 50lb.

Check EricXJs rockers out - they're pretty awesome

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/...d-thread-sorts-540357/index7.html#post5107992

Click to expand...

That is one of the write-ups I am following for this actually lol. I am doing it a little differently though. I was wrong on the weight lol. I went out there today to double check something and figured I would take a look at them, the aren't as bad as I thought they were. Not sure why I thought they had weighed so much either lol. I do like that writeup though, great reference for what I am planning to do. I was originally planning to do the air tank thing too, but I am thinking against it now... I am a big SCUBA diver so I can always just throw a tank and regulator in the XJ and be fine lol.

I am overall doing the modification a bit differently. I have a feeling it is going to change again once I start test fitting steel and get the fabrication going on it lol. I really do like that build though. I think I found that link somewhere else. The only thing I don't like about it is the necessity to trim the door edges... With the welder I will hopefully be getting soon It might not be so bad, but I still hate to cut the perfect condition doors I bought lol. Will revisit the idea when I cut out the bottoms of the panels and see what I have left to work with...

nitro450exp said:

I did the 0.125" tube.

http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f58/rockers-75178/

Nitro

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The only thought I have against it is that I will undoubtedly in the future have to do it again lol. The weight issue is my only concern but I keep thinking more and more that I am just going to use this heavy steel...

jeeperjohn said:

I have 2 X 6 3/16" tube rockers on mine. They are mounted all the way inside the cavity previously occupied by the stock rockers. They are supported by 2 X 2 up into the door sills and 1 1/2" X 3" kickers to the frame. I have dropped the vehicle onto the rockers from a couple of feet and they just asked for more. If you aren't gonna do any hardcore rock crawling though, you could use 1/8" wall tube.

Click to expand...

Basically I am planning to cut the outside rocker up to just below where the bottom edge of the door is, perhaps a bit lower. Then cut the back side to the same length but a touch higher. Then stick the tube in the rocker cut out with the long side out so I have a bit of door protection. Then fully seam weld the old rocker to the new tube on each side. Then also planning to weld some 1x1.5" tube (or something else if it looks too small) from the rockers to the side of the "frame rails" To beef up the side strength. Then of course some re-enforcement to the A pillar, C Pillar (well that area) then if it looks like I still need it, maybe something to the B Pillar for some extra protection...

Thought about this just now (slightly after I posted this) I like the idea of the 2x2, I think I may go look for some of that, to "fill in the gap" between my tube and the top of the original rocker... Thanks again for the info...

Thanks again for the input, have a good one.

Paint

If you don't want to cut the doors this writeup is good too
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/rockers/rockers.htm

dukie564 said:

If you don't want to cut the doors this writeup is good too
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/rockers/rockers.htm

Click to expand...

I came across that one as well some time ago too in my searches. My biggest issue is that there is not really much of anything left of my original floors. From B Pillar to about were the upwards curve of the front portion of the floor is by the pedals is mostly gone. The passenger side has a bit more to work with, however just about all of the flat steel is rusted out on both sides of the XJ and lots of small spots in the cargo area. My plan is to just replace it all with new flat steel basically from the rocker panels in to the inside top of the "frame rails". The exception being the curved areas as they are still in strangely good shape. The cargo area may be getting done in a similar way, but I will decide on that once I get the gas tank out and see the condition of the floors underside. The unirails are all in good shape still and the suspension is fine as well now that is has all been replaced or modified... There are a couple places on top of the rockers that will need to be repaired/replaced so some of the fabrication is going to get interesting lol. If I had an extra hand to do pictures for me, I would do a writeup of all this stuff and post it once it is done. I may still try and just do it myself though... My biggest thing is, I can't find one single writeup that will work for my situation. So my plan incorporates several different ideas and modifications that others have done into one that will work and at least I think is the best way for it to be accomplished for my ultimate goal with this project. A decent chunk of the work I am doing may be unnecessary, but I think the end result will be very well worth the effort. Thanks for responding,

Paint

dukie564 said:

If you don't want to cut the doors this writeup is good too
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/rockers/rockers.htm

Click to expand...

I like that write up.

Hello

The inside of the 2x6 has a piece of oak from a large pallet, cut to size and pounded in with a sledge.

The tube will not dent or compress.
Wood is very strong in compression especially when encased in 1/8" steel.

This only added a few pounds per side, way less than the extra lbs from 3/16" or 1/4" tube.

Pounded it in after most welding was done and then capped it.

So I do not forsee having to redo due to damage.

Nitro

nitro450exp said:

Hello

The inside of the 2x6 has a piece of oak from a large pallet, cut to size and pounded in with a sledge.

The tube will not dent or compress.
Wood is very strong in compression especially when encased in 1/8" steel.

This only added a few pounds per side, way less than the extra lbs from 3/16" or 1/4" tube.

Pounded it in after most welding was done and then capped it.

So I do not forsee having to redo due to damage.

Nitro

Click to expand...

I have beat the holy crap out of mine and have no dents.

This argument goes on and on. I have 1/4" on mine and I'm pretty sure some of the gouges are 1/8" deep. I wouldn't do anyting less than 1/4" if you plan to use them. The gas mileage argument is pointless.

What John said! I just put the 1/4" on mine and am cutting the doors.

What we did was plug weld some 1x1/8" strap on top through the sill into the 2x6 and it provided a nice clean surface weld too. Pictures speak louder than words.....




Oh 3/16" FTW

raypla said:

What we did was plug weld some 1x1/8" strap on top through the sill into the 2x6 and it provided a nice clean surface weld too. Pictures speak louder than words.....

Oh 3/16" FTW

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Now that I SERIOUSLY like. Did you just cut up to the bottom edge of the main sill tube? Or overlay the strip over the contoured piece? Looks nice and clean that way, would be a heck of a lot better than what I was going to do lol. By the looks of it, no need to cut the doors either, would that be a correct assumption? Thanks for the post, really like what you did with that.

Paint

Paintballpsyco2369 said:

Now that I SERIOUSLY like.

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You could do a lot better than that if you have access to a decent welder and use some filler. This is using 3 X 4 X 1/4 and the doors were not cut.

wow that looks clean man great job

John D said:

You could do a lot better than that if you have access to a decent welder and use some filler. This is using 3 X 4 X 1/4 and the doors were not cut.

Click to expand...

could I bother you for some pictures of the tie ins to the "frame rail"

Currently butted up to and welded along the pinch seam. It is more than strong enough this way.

ok thanks, I might go this route!