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Lower control arm bracket loose (axle side)

blistovmhz

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Vancouver, BC
The bolt on the lower control arm (axle side) has worn the bolt hole in the bracket int a much larger hole (or oval).
C360_2011-06-26%25252010-54-08.jpg

I know I should cut the brackets off and replace them, but I don't have shop space right now and am wondering if I'd be safe to weld the washer to the bracket. The washer is about the same thickness as the bracket and IS the right size for the bolt. I don't need it to hold forever, but the problem is just getting worse every time I drive. Some XXXXer stole the hose fittings off my shocks remote reservoir, spilling oil everywhere, so the oil is lubricating the bolt/bracket and causing it to grind itself down quite nicely.
Will welding the washer hold for a bit till I can get those brackets replaced?

Also, anyone in Vancouver area have a welder? I hate to have to go out and buy one for this one job. I don't have a shop to store it in, so I'd end up with a welder in my kitchen (which would be cool, I know, but I really don't need more tools in my kitchen).
 
i'd take a larger peice of steel, and weld that on instead of the washer... but your way would work...


sorry to hear about your shock hose adapters... i remember reading about that a while back
 
perhaps you could take it to a local body shop or something, i did it for a door hinge, cost 50 bucks. Im sure something that small give somebody 15-20 bucks you should be good.
 
So I've found a few fabricators (one in particular) who can do the job.

Wondering what the best course is here. I can tack on the washer for now which I know is a bandaid solution, or I can fab up something new.

Was thinking of either welding on some new 1/16 or 1/8 steel plates to the side of the existing mounts for reinforcement, or just fabbing up some beefier mounts.

Anyone ever build/install new mounts? Know how difficult it is to get the mounts aligned to the diff output shaft angle?
 
Get two large washer or steel plate at least 1/8" thick and weld one each side after the bolt is tightned. Use a good lock nut, two lock nuts or any combination of items to keep that bolt tightned to specs (I think about 135 pound torque) and you will be good for ever or until you loosen it up again.
 
A grade 8 fender washer welded will solve the problems longterm. This is very common and I have done it multiple times. This is actually more common on the control arms. Make sure and check them. They are the source of lots of the clunks, pops, and bangs that XJ's make.
 
@ OldMan. That's exactly what I was thinking as well, but I wasn't sure if anyone had tried it as a long term solution. How long have you seen this repair hold up? (and where do you find grade 8 fender washers?)

I'm also probably going to beef up the stock mounts with a small skid plate welded to the front sides to give it more torsional stability. Is there anything I need to worry about when welding right to the axle housing? (ie: will shit explode or crack or catch on fire?)
 
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