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Radio and Wiring Help

MacTavish

NAXJA Forum User
Hey guys,

I have a Clarion DXZ585USB Head unit installed in my 1999 Cherokee XJ Sport. It was already installed when I bought it, so I have no idea how to get the damn thing out. My back speakers were never hooked up with wires so I'm putting the sound system back together. Unfortunately, I have never removed a head unit and I need to get to the back of this thing to hook up my speaker wire. Anyone have experience with this? I don't want to ruin or break anything. Here are some pics...

Thanks!

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MVrPCl.jpg
 
97-up XJ's used a larger radio than the DIN style you have, so if you don't have the hooks, you can pop off the bezel that surrounds the radio and heater controls (no screws on this one). Underneath, you'll find a DIN adapter screwed into place. You can unscrew that, and pull it out adapter and all.
 
Ok! Progress. I found out how to remove the "bezel", which was the plastic framing around the radio, heater and A/C controls, etc. and then I unscrewed the radio head unit. So now I'm staring at this cluster#*$@ of wires. Tons of been cut, spliced together, and some are just dangling with their metal wires exposed -_-. I guess I need a wiring diagram to progress any further. Google-ho!
 
Thanks Glanden! That was a HUGE help. Unfortunately, after hooking up both my rear speakers, neither of them work. They are NOT blown, but they won't push out any sound. I'm really at a loss for what to do now. Are there any common problems that I might be overlooking? I'm using a couple different kinds of wiring, could that be it? Any help is appreciated.
 
Check the wires to the rear speakers for continuity. I had to run new wire to my rear speakers on my 98. Its a fairly common problem. The front speaker wire is even more common, so don't be surprised if you end up running new wire to them at some point too.
 
Testing for Continuity: using a Volt Ohm meter (multi meter) to measure from one end of the speaker wire to the other end to ensure you have a good path for the audio electrons to cross from the radio to the speaker.
 
I will list the wire colors for the various harness wires. Properly, the radio used two connectors, but if they've been cut, no point in pinouts. If you do have the connectors, the first one contains the first 7 listed, the second has its first cavity blank.

My preferred method of doing this when connectors are messed up is to cut all the wires clean, solder new connections and use heat shrink tubing to insulate. Ordinary taping can't always withstand the bending and squishing required when you stuff a radio back in, and it also gets pretty hot back there.

Dark Green/red = Radio 12 volt output [used to turn on external amp]
Brown/yellow = left rear speaker +
Dark Blue/white = right rear speaker +
Dark green=left front spkr +
Violet = right front spkr +
Brown/light blue = left rear spkr -
Dark Blue/Orange = right rear spkr -
Brown/red=left front spkr -
Dark blue/red =right front spkr -

(note that all dark blues are right, all browns left)

Black/Yellow = headlamp switch output
Orange = fused panel lamps dimmer switch signal
Red/white = fused ignition switch output (run-acc) [that's the main power]
Pink = fused B+ [that's clock and memory]

For a simple head unit you probably don't need the 12 volt output, or the headlight-connected ones. I believe the headlight out is for radio panels that dim when you turn on the lights, and the dimmer signal is to allow instrument dimmer control to dim the display if the radio allows.

Cautionary note: My son blew out a head unit trusting the 96 FSM pinouts. I double checked. It really was the fault of the manual, not his misreading. As far as I know these color codes from the 99 FSM are accurate, but you wouldn't do any harm to double check before connecting.
 
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