Help: Rear Spring swap on 89LTD

I'm getting my ducks lined up for installation of a new pair of HD leaf springs on my 89 LTD. I've having some difficulty finding the information that I need.

Should I use rubber or polly bushings?

I've decided on these springs: http://www.jeep4x4center.com/product-information.asp?number=4886186AB. Would these take the stock size bushings (I've asked Morris for an answer but not heard back)

I'm not clear on how many bushings I need. I know that I need bushings for each end of the spring but some kits appear to come with bushings for the Shackle as well.

Should I order new Shackles?

Is the nut/bolt hardware commonly available - I think the job will be easier if I just cut the old nuts/bolts off rather than try and screw it apart.

Can I do the job one spring at a time or does it make sense to take both springs off before installing the new ones?

Any other tips?

Thanks for any advice.

Just to be clear: these are stock replacement (not lift) leafs?

Rubber bushings will be your best bet.

Start soaking everything with Kroil http://www.kanolabs.com/google/ about two weeks before you plan on removing the leafs.

You will also need new U-bolts, try to find a local spring shop to make you some, they will be beefier than the ones for mail order.

Hi Souske:

Thanks for your note. The springs I linked to are replacements for the so called 'up country' option which was some sort of an option that resulted in about a 1" of lift over the regular springs (or so I glean from much goggling).

I've been reading that poly bushings are a lot easier to install so I'm leaning towards them (although they can apparently be squeaky). I am however willing to consider rubber bushings but I'm not sure if there's a difference in quality. Many of the Poly kits seem to be in the same price range but the rubbers ones vary quite a bit. Found them as low as $6 here: http://rustysoffroad.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=BASK&Store_Code=rustys and a lot more expensive in other places.

I would use rubber bushings as well. They ought to flex better, and you won't have to put up with squeeking.

As for shackles, if they are original I imagine the bushings are pretty worn out. You can take a look and decide for yourself. The Crown stock replacements are not expensive, and come with bushings installed.

I would definetly take Souske's advice and spray the bolts and nuts down with penetrating oil for a week or two prior to the job. Make sure you get some on threads coming through the welded nut inside the frame rail (front mount); there is a small access hole on the bottom of the rail that you can stick the nozzle tube through. Another tip is, if you can manage to get the bolts started but they are tough to keep turning, spin the bolt back and forth and work it out in a one step backwards, two step forwards type of manner. This helps loosen some of the rust and gunk out of the threads. Go slowly, it would suck to break the bolt (or welded nut). There's no way to access the back side of the bolt without cutting an access hole in the frame rail.

For the spring eye bushings, the Crown HD springs supposedly take stock size bushings. The eyes on my set were a little too small to get in. Some people say they just pound the bushing in with a hammer. I could never get mine started. I made a press with 1/2" threaded rod, some 1/2" nuts and washers, and two cast iron pipe flanges. The rod goes through the spring eye and bushing, and the flanges go on either side of the eye and bushing, and you press the bushing in by tightening the nuts. That was a lot better than hammering, but I still couldn't get a couple in, and destroyed one bushing trying.

I ended up having to dremel/file a slightly bigger shoulder along the inside edge of the spring eye, and I used a bolt, nut, washer and small pipe assembled inside the eye to use as an eye expander (this made me a little nervous). Together I was able to get the bushing started, and once started it went in fine.

I supported the axle with two jacks so I could accurately raise and lower it. Lining it up was pretty easy. I'm pretty sure I took both off before installing the new ones.

Some more tips:

-When reinstalling, use antisieze on the bolt shafts where they go through the bushings. One of the worst things to deal with is a bolt seized to the bushing sleeve, and this will prevent that.

-Install the front leaf bolt first, and leave it loose. Then move the shackle around with a prybar while you try to slip the rear leaf bolt through. It was a little tricky but not bad.

-Make sure the center pin is clearly seated in the perch hole, before you tighten everything up.

-Search the topic thoroughly beforehand to be aware of all the pitfalls that can happen.

All good advice...

When I replaced my leaf packs I did both at the same time, I would not do it that way again. You find out quickly that all that's holding your axle on is the drive shaft and it rotates around. Maybe it's just me.

I'll chime in for rubber bushings to. Harder to install, better ride.