99 4.0L Issues

Hello Fellow ians -

I finally had an opportunity to visit my son (Ted), and help him work on his new-to-him 99 SE. This had been in an accident and the right front corner was mangled and repaired. Turns out, the repair was mangled as well.

List of known problems going in included (Well, in addition to some rust and a few rattles):

Need to replace fluids in transfer case and differentials

Squealing noise in engine somewhere - turned out to be ac compressor, RATS!
-Any point in trying a junkyard AC Compressor?

Engine coughing and surging periodically.
-Even though no code, I replaced the TPS, reset ECM. Might have helped.

Serpentine belt of unknown age and condition.
- Not bad.

Some speakers not working - Surprise!
- No time to fix this trip.

No horn
-NO wire to horn! Will grab a new horn and wiring harness at JY

Cruise Control had stopped working suddenly
-No codes, no blown fuses. Where is the next place to look?

After tearing into it and also hooking up my OBD2 scan tool we found

No battery tray(!)
-Generic from Pep Boys wouldn't fit. Rigged up a temporary fix until I can pull one from JY

PDC not anchored
-Anchored now!

Headlight assemblies FUBAR both front headlights. A$$-Wipes who "repaired" this used zip ties!
-Can I pull the entire assembly from the JY, or are there parts welded to the body panels?

Driver door striker had only one bolt
-Grabbing bolts at JY next trip

No fan cowl
J-Y Part

Only 2 bolts holding grill assembly on top
-JY Part

Weak hatch struts
-Rock Auto?

Hood latch loop (not certain what it is called) absent and hood out of adjustment in front, doesn't fit properly, sits too high by a .375 inch or so.
-JY Part

DTCs retrieved

P0132 - O2 Circuit High, Bank one, Sensor 1
P0108 - BARO sensor high
P0751 - Shift solenoid 'A' Performance or StuckOff
P1492 - Ambient battery temp. sensor input voltage high

I'd like some help figuring out:

-which O2 sensor this is,
-WTF P0108 and P1492 are talking about and where the sensors are (pics would be great!),
-and how hard is it to replace a transmission solenoid, once I figure out which one it is.

I have the FSM and the tools (no lift, floor jack or jack stands at his location, though.)

Thanks for any helpful advice!

Brian

Quick start reply:

Battery temp problem should go away if you get proper battery tray with temp sensor in it.

Headlight assemblies should be obtainable whole, I think. Usual failure here is the plastic bushings used to adjust aim, which work against springs. You may find it's possible to fix what you have if you can find the missing or broken parts.

If this vehicle has sat a long time, you might want to wait a little on the AC compressor, and see if the clutch spits out some of the rust. If it's squealing when on but not off, you might try gently whacking it with a soft hammer and see if it finishes engaging. Don't overdo or you'll bend things and it's tricky to get them straight again (guess how I know that!).

Thanks! I'll look for an AC Compressor thread. Not sure what is going on with it, but it was probably setting around for a while.

Brian

Oh yeah.

Ted said the day after I left he was running the ac and it started to squeal and smoke came from under the car until he turned it off, then symptoms stopped immediately. My guess was grabby AC clutch. He didn't say what the smoke smelled like.

And think I know the answer to this, but can a loose belt cause the AC compressor to squeal?

Fish'nCarz said:

And think I know the answer to this, but can a loose belt cause the AC compressor to squeal?

Click to expand...

Other way around..the AC can cause a loose belt to squeal.

The O2 sensor in question is going to be your upstream O2 sensor (right after the exhaust manifold. This is the important one as is controls air/fuel mixture, and that may very well be causing the coughing and surging that you're getting. Given that you've got a fault code related to the circuit on that sensor, I would first verify that all wiring is good before replacing the sensor. Regardless of if it's a wiring issue or the sensor actually has gone bad, depending on which way it's failed you may either be running too rich or too lean.

Haven't replaced a trans solenoid on the AW4 personally, but my friend's dad had one go on his 98 not to long ago and he told me it was a very straight forward swap. If i'm not mistaken, once you get the pan off it's staring you right in the face.

P0132 is the upstream oxygen sensor before the cat.
P1492 is a battery temp sensor that was on the bottom of the now missing battery tray. If the battery gets too hot, the charge from the alternator is reduced.

Is it worth trying used O2 sensors and Transmission solenoids? How do I find the part numbers for the wones I need?

TIA,

Brian

Fish'nCarz said:

Is it worth trying used O2 sensors and Transmission solenoids? How do I find the part numbers for the ones I need?

TIA,

Brian

Click to expand...

I wouldn't. They're not that expensive.

For the solenoids, search around here at . There is a write up somewhere about using solenoids from a Toyota. It's the same trans and solenoids (Aisin Warner A340) but they're cheaper if you get the Toyota ones. I think I paid around 100 bux for all three.

As for the cruise control, there is a vacuum line that runs under the battery tray that goes to a reservoir under the front bumper. They are notorious for breaking under the tray because of battery acid. This of course causes a vacuum leak. Being as you don't have a tray, you may have to look around for the vacuum line.

As I recall there is a vacuum line that runs down the inside of the fender from the firewall into a splitter near the power distribution block. Then it goes one way to the cruise control and the other way to the reservoir.



Edit: Here's the write up for the solenoids. But I took a quick look around and it looks as if prices have gone up. $130-$160:
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=987463&highlight=toyota+solenoid

Swapped in a new instrument cluster with guages this weekend and the CEL, and Airbag lights lit up. I think the slimy POS who sold Ted this challenged ride pulled the glowing lights in the instrument cluster in the jeep when he bought it. Found some camouflaged, shitty welding as well. And the new radiator seems to be just floating in the grill. (Come on, Karmic retribution!!)

Now that the airbag light is in the mix, added to the other problems I'm starting to think clock spring and blown airbag. Need to replace the air ball first, then will have a better picture, but what else causes the Airbag light?

the air bag module under the driver seat causes the light. I pulled the light out of the instrument cluster and switched to a gt grant steering wheel

JeepCherokeeBoy99 said:

the air bag module under the driver seat causes the light. I pulled the light out of the instrument cluster and switched to a gt grant steering wheel

Click to expand...

Air bag module was moved to under the center console.

UNCC_99XJ said:

Other way around..the AC can cause a loose belt to squeal.

The O2 sensor in question is going to be your upstream O2 sensor (right after the exhaust manifold. This is the important one as is controls air/fuel mixture, and that may very well be causing the coughing and surging that you're getting. Given that you've got a fault code related to the circuit on that sensor, I would first verify that all wiring is good before replacing the sensor. Regardless of if it's a wiring issue or the sensor actually has gone bad, depending on which way it's failed you may either be running too rich or too lean.

Haven't replaced a trans solenoid on the AW4 personally, but my friend's dad had one go on his 98 not to long ago and he told me it was a very straight forward swap. If i'm not mistaken, once you get the pan off it's staring you right in the face.

Click to expand...

i agree with your O2 diagnosis

Fish'nCarz said:

Hello Fellow ians -

I finally had an opportunity to visit my son (Ted), and help him work on his new-to-him 99 SE. This had been in an accident and the right front corner was mangled and repaired. Turns out, the repair was mangled as well.

List of known problems going in included (Well, in addition to some rust and a few rattles):

Need to replace fluids in transfer case and differentials

Squealing noise in engine somewhere - turned out to be ac compressor, RATS!
-Any point in trying a junkyard AC Compressor?

Engine coughing and surging periodically.
-Even though no code, I replaced the TPS, reset ECM. Might have helped.

Serpentine belt of unknown age and condition.
- Not bad.

Some speakers not working - Surprise!
- No time to fix this trip.

No horn
-NO wire to horn! Will grab a new horn and wiring harness at JY

Cruise Control had stopped working suddenly
-No codes, no blown fuses. Where is the next place to look?

After tearing into it and also hooking up my OBD2 scan tool we found

No battery tray(!)
-Generic from Pep Boys wouldn't fit. Rigged up a temporary fix until I can pull one from JY

PDC not anchored
-Anchored now!

Headlight assemblies FUBAR both front headlights. A$$-Wipes who "repaired" this used zip ties!
-Can I pull the entire assembly from the JY, or are there parts welded to the body panels?

Driver door striker had only one bolt
-Grabbing bolts at JY next trip

No fan cowl
J-Y Part

Only 2 bolts holding grill assembly on top
-JY Part

Weak hatch struts
-Rock Auto?

Hood latch loop (not certain what it is called) absent and hood out of adjustment in front, doesn't fit properly, sits too high by a .375 inch or so.
-JY Part

DTCs retrieved

P0132 - O2 Circuit High, Bank one, Sensor 1
P0108 - BARO sensor high
P0751 - Shift solenoid 'A' Performance or StuckOff
P1492 - Ambient battery temp. sensor input voltage high

I'd like some help figuring out:

-which O2 sensor this is,
-WTF P0108 and P1492 are talking about and where the sensors are (pics would be great!),
-and how hard is it to replace a transmission solenoid, once I figure out which one it is.

I have the FSM and the tools (no lift, floor jack or jack stands at his location, though.)

Thanks for any helpful advice!

Brian

Click to expand...

also your O2 sensor is reading rich hence the "high voltage"..... "low voltage" would be a lean issue

Start by checking the adjustment of the Brake Light Switch for the CC issue.

The FSM says this:
1. Press and hold brake pedal in applied position.
2. Pull switch plunger all the way out to fully extended position.
3. Release brake pedal. Then pull pedal fully rearward. Pedal will set plunger to correct position as pedal pushes plunger into the switch body. Switch will make a ratcheting sound as it self adjusts.

For the most part this works. I found that on my 98, I had to extend the switch out one click past the seld adjusts point as the brake lights would occaionally not shut off.

That's a new one to me! I'll pass this along, and thanks!

Brian