Locker question

D30 stock up front and 8.25 out back stock what end is best for the locker in your opinion and why. I will not replace any axles at this time to upgraded one due to funds and also note i never tailor this thing so needs to be best. i am thinking front but the stock axles kinda worry me

aussie in the 30. don't lock the rear before the front, you want the front tires to pull you over things, not just the rear pushing you into them. also in the rear it is more ideal to go with a selectable locker that has much more $$

1 it requires no special setup, just replace the spider gears with the aussie itself and you are set.
2. cheap.
3. reliable, i know more than one guy on 35"s with an aussie in their 30 that hammer them all day with no issues.

don't lock the rear before the front, you want the front tires to pull you over things, not just the rear pushing you into them. also in the rear it is more ideal to go with a selectable locker that has much more $$

search, there are a ton of guys running aussies.

I was thinking the same about pulling and no pushing. Thanks

I locked my rear first and do just fine. Matter of opinion I guess. I went with the Powertrax. It was cheap, easy to install (took only an hour) and I utilized the stock axles (I have the 29-spline 8.25). The thing wheels like a dream and the on street I hardly know it's there!

In My opinion, I was taught a technique to use the Front tires to catch the Hard edges of a dug up trail under all the loose stuff. Can't do this near as well with the locker in back, if at all. An Aussie up front got Us to where everyone else was going, an ARB in the rear made Us part of the Everyone Crowd. I run a D30/C8.25 with stock axles and have made it home each time.

Spartan for the 30, I love mine. I have the Spartan up front and a factory limited slip out back and dont have any problems climbing. There is a guy selling an ARB for $500 for a 8.25 right now on here, which is a good price and Robert has the Spartans for $210.

I have three different 4Xs.
An early Bronco, 85' Toyota S/B, and of course a 96' XJ.

The Bronco is locked at both ends and it'll go anywhere I can physicaly fit it (even forced it into a couple of spots it didn't) but, sometimes I absolutely hate having a front locker, like on tight trails where it really isn't required, especially going downhill with most of the weight on the front wheels (.....doesn't steer) to well or on icy pavement.

My Toyota is also locked at both ends but, the front is selectable (transplanted Tacoma e-locker) and what a difference that makes!
I hardly ever turn the thing on.....only when it's absolutely necessary (that's why my stock front birfields have lasted this long...knock on wood!) but, I wheel the piss out of it as some of the guys on this board that have wheeled with me can attest......hi, guys!

The XJ is finally getting built (been gathering up parts for the last 5 yrs) it too is getting lockers....a Powertrax (been sitting in my closet for about 2 years) in the D44 rear and an ARB (picked it up used for really cheap) up front.

So, what I'm saying is, if you were to run just one locker.....I'd put it in back and later when you can afford it, add a selectable up front.......your front axle joints will thank you.
With the XJ lacking locking hubs up front, you will constantly hear that annoying ratcheting rounding corners when running an automatic locker and your steering control will be seriously diminished in icy road driving conditions.

When I can afford it, my Bronco's getting a selectable as well.......just my 2 cents
----------Hans

I'd go with a full case locker if locking the 30. The stock carrier is weak and with an aussie or other insert locker, all the extra forces are being exerted on the stock carrier. If doing the 8.25, get a 29 spline locker/carrier and shafts to get an increase in strength.

Front locker all day long.

Darky makes good points

I suggest getting a Spartan or a Aussie up front and then a selectable for the rear when you can afford it.

Here's my experience:

I put a No-Slip in the rear first. I could go more places than open/open. A few years back at SoCal Fest, I struggled going up the waterfall on John Bull. Everyone with a front locker just crawled up. There was a guy who had 31's with stock gearing and only a front locker. He also climbed up with no problems on his first try.

I put a Aussie up front and that thing was awesome.

Then I swapped out the rear for a D44 with an OX Locker. When I did that, I only locked the rear a couple of times.

Now, I'm running 30's with 1" of lift over stock, Aussie up front and an open 8.25 in the rear. I ran Cleghorn a couple of weeks back and did the whole thing without having to "re-try" any obstacles. In comparison, there were guys out there that had 4" to 5" lifts with 33's and had trouble going through stuff that I just walked through. I know some of that has to do with experience. However, there was not once when I needed a rear locker instead of a front locker.

The only times I really had an issue with turning was when I tried making u-turns on flat dirt. It would want to just go forward. There hasn't been an issue with the turning radius while on an obstacle.

I really hated driving with a rear locker on the street. Some people say that you get used to it. However, after 5 years I never did.

With the Aussie up front, I only hear a ratcheting while cornering every once in awhile. It also does not affect driving while in 2wd.

Maybe you can setup a wheeling trip with a couple of people - one that only has a front locker and the other that only has a rear locker. That way you can see the differences first hand.


Just remember that there's not a right or wrong solution to this topic.

E

Thanks for all the input guys. i was leaning towards front due to pulling power. my buddy is full time rear locked and he eats the hell out of tires eventually i will do a rear too but for now money is a factor. once again thanks

Darky said:

I'd go with a full case locker if locking the 30. The stock carrier is weak and with an aussie or other insert locker, all the extra forces are being exerted on the stock carrier. If doing the 8.25, get a 29 spline locker/carrier and shafts to get an increase in strength.

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I agree that the 30 carrier isn't the strongest.^

however as long as you stay 35" and under you should have no problem with a lunchbox. and as always when dealing with the stock axles, watch the excessive use of the skinny pedal.

if you must replace the carrier then I'd go with a Detroit, I just don't think the stock axle is worth it.

If you go over 35s, you're probably not gonna want to keep the 30 period. I wouldn't want to lock my 30 with a lunchbox. That's why mine's still open. I don't have the money for a full case locker yet and got a great deal on my 44 rear fully built.

Chip Clip said:

Spartan for the 30, Robert has the Spartans for $210.

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This, best and cheapest lunchbox out there,

What are you planning on doing? Trails? Desert? I know everyone on here thinks every XJ is a rock crawler but it really matters. It's not a 1 size fits all deal.

Aussie/Lockrite in the front, spool the back. Just the locker in the front will feel like a new capable jeep.

crawler- lock the front, it'll help pull you over things as stated.
Desert/prerunner- lock the rear.

We have a locked ford 8.8 & we aren't eating throw tires?? Running BGF AT's.

Hehe, I ran with only the front locked for a few years and it easily doubles the Jeep’s crawling abilities.

Front first highly recommended.

Skwerly said:

Front first highly recommended for a crawler.

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Fixed:wave1:

Heh, absolutely. Yea, the go fast stuff should be in the rear.