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U-joint replacement D30

S

SanDiegoOverland

NAXJA Forum User
Location
San Diego
I'm planning on putting new joints in my front end (1992, 4x4, aw4, np231, non-vacuum)

I've read a couple write ups, and just want to know if I have the procedure down correctly.

1.Chock vehicle
2. Lift and secure front end
3. Put vehicle into 4wd
4. Remove tires
5. Remove axle nut (size?) and wave washer/cotter pin
6. Remove caliper/disc (secure caliber with wire to protect brake line)
7. Undo (3) hub/bearing bolts
8. place socket extension or bolt/nut behind ear of axleshaft and rotate steering wheel (alternating front and back) until hub pops out
9. carefully pull inner and outer shaft out
10. Replace u-joint
11. Reinstall complete axle shaft assembly
12. Reinstall hub/bearing. Torque to 175ft-lbs

Reinstall all parts removed and repeat on opposite side.

Did I hit all the major points? Does the axle nut have a specific torque setting, or just tight enough to reinstall the cotter pin?

Thanks!
 
When I've replaced the u-joints in my XJ or YJ I did not need to removed the hub nut or hub from the axle assembly. Just remove the caliper, disk rotor, 3 hub bolts, and pull the axle assembly out. On reassembly, I apply anti-seize to the hub flange (where it slides into the knuckle) to make it easier to remove in the future. Other than that your process looks good.

Cliff
 
No need to lost unit bearing although it takes make it easier to work with the axle. Yes you should torque the axle nut properly to ensure good preload on the unitbearing. With practice you can do both sides in under an hour.
 
cliffv said:
When I've replaced the u-joints in my XJ or YJ I did not need to removed the hub nut or hub from the axle assembly. Just remove the caliper, disk rotor, 3 hub bolts, and pull the axle assembly out. On reassembly, I apply anti-seize to the hub flange (where it slides into the knuckle) to make it easier to remove in the future. Other than that your process looks good.

Cliff
Click to expand...

Understood! Very good idea. I'd honestly prefer to disassemble as few parts as possible. :)

Thanks for the feedback.
 
You will need a 36mm socket for the hub nut, try to find a 6pt one

While you dont have to have it for changing u-joints, you will need it later if you ever plan to swap out an axle without its own unit bearing
 
souske said:
You will need a 36mm socket for the hub nut, try to find a 6pt one

While you dont have to have it for changing u-joints, you will need it later if you ever plan to swap out an axle without its own unit bearing
Click to expand...

That's great. I actually have a 1/2" 36mm socket, by chance. My 4x4 subaru had 36mm axle nuts, too. :)
 
I'd suggest cracking the axle nut loose while your tires are still on ground. Otherwise it's difficult to hold the whole assembly while you apply the torque it takes to break it loose.

You should also use PB Blaster on the axle nut for several days before trying to break it loose if it hasn't been off before....
 
Flyfisher said:
I'd suggest cracking the axle nut loose while your tires are still on ground. Otherwise it's difficult to hold the whole assembly while you apply the torque it takes to break it loose.

You should also use PB Blaster on the axle nut for several days before trying to break it loose if it hasn't been off before....
Click to expand...

x2. Also look up the circle snap ring upgrade mod and think about that while you have it all apart. As suggested use copious amounts of anti-seize upon assembly especially if you believe you'll keep the XJ for some time.
 
I just replaced a driver's side u-joint (I had done both fronts 2 years ago). Hardest part was getting the clips in on one of the yokes. Had this problem the first time as well. I used Autozone u-joints so I would use NAPA or OEM before I'd go back to Autozone.

Impact gun worked on the axle nut. My alloy wheels don't have a hub opening big enough to loosen the axle nut with the wheel still on.

I bought 3 bolts the same thread as the hub bolts, only longer. Beat on those with a hammer to break the wheel hub/bearing loose. First time we used slide hammer and it destroyed the wheel bearing. I had new ones to install so no problem. This time I wanted to be careful.
 
is the actual joint replacement usually easy? I was considering buying a shaft assembly just to avoid that (Based on past experience with u joints requiring a serious press to remove..).
 
It's very easy. The complete shaft and u-joint assembly is close to $300. The only problem I had was getting 1 of the 4 c-clips on the yoke. If you have trouble, just take it to a driveline specialist to have the u-joint replaced.

Do a search to find several very good DIY instructions with photos. A press really isn't needed. The job can be done with a hammer and the proper size of sockets.
 
I've bent the ear/yoke on a axle shaft before, pressing the U-Joint out on my 96, never had that happen on my Renix. Depends on how rusted in there they are. I'm more careful now.
I also do one side of the axle at a time, I jack the whole front up in the center (way up), put a jack stand under one side of the front axle and let the vehicle back down onto the opposite side tire.
If you get *one* side up high enough, the oil doesn't leak out when you take the axle shaft out.
 
thanks, i'll give it a shot. I hate to get into this job and end up having to order parts though.

FWIW there is an outfit on ebay has the shaft assembly for $130.
 
Easy way to remove the hub bearing and axle shaft is to remove the three bolts for hub bearing and also have the 36 mm axle nut loose but not removed. Put your tire back on take a 2x4 and wedge it between the rim and the frame rail and turn your steering wheel. It will pop right out. Never had one I could not get out.
 
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