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Will an Amc 360 fit?

zachandandy

NAXJA Forum User
NAXJA Member
Location
Patterson, Ca
I have an 89 renix era 4.0 xj. I am tryi g to find out if the bolt pattern was still the same as the Amc v8 on my aw4? Has anyone performed this swap? I have the Howell throttle body efi on my 77 wagoneer, and have been considering finding an 89 to 91 waggy to rob axles and engine from, thus remaining ca smog legal. Thought, suggestions, comments?
 
The 4.0, 258/4.2, and all the AMC V-8s share the same bell housing bolt pattern. So, yes, the motor will bolt to the trans.
There's a Jeepspeed Mopar Cup Challenge(3700 class) Cherokee with a 360 racing. Not sure how it compares, as most of the 3700 class tends to DNF due to breakage.

First thought is: Should be a great performer. Higher HP potential, less weight, further back in the chassis. Should be quicker off the line, and handle better.
DX the distributor on the 360 and get a DUI HEI conversion distributor.
 
Good luck getting it smogged.
 
That's why I'm not trying the 77 motor. Ca DMV states engine swap is legal with same model year or newer. Wags from 89 to 91 only in my case. Howell kit came with carb sticker, so it should be doable. With a smog pump, I could even get a carb to pass smog
 
Another option would be to find the 5.2 or 5.9 out of a Dakota, ZJ, or Ram.They'll fit and be easier to find from the right year. Go to Mallcrawlin.com and look up shelbyluvv. He's finishing up doing the swap on a Comanche.
 
huh. peeps i know with waggy's are trying to get 4.0's swapped in..
 
I have an 89 renix era 4.0 xj. I am tryi g to find out if the bolt pattern was still the same as the Amc v8 on my aw4? Has anyone performed this swap? I have the Howell throttle body efi on my 77 wagoneer, and have been considering finding an 89 to 91 waggy to rob axles and engine from, thus remaining ca smog legal. Thought, suggestions, comments?

I put a 360 in front of an ax15. The bolt pattern is the same, the v8 has 2 additional bolt holes at 10 and 2 that arent used on the I6 block so the bosses in the aw bell may not be big enough to use. They wernt on the ax15 so I went without.

There is no date reference on the 360 engines so a referee will want the vin from the vehicle it came from to confirm the year. The Howell FI is good to 91, but I would meet with a referee before doing the swap to find out what else they would want to see.

If you are set on the aw4 there are a few issues.
The AW4 TCU is going to want to see a TPS input to control shift points. You will need to find out if the GM TPS sends the correct voltage for the TCU, and if the GM PCM will care if another computer is feeding off of it.
Also, AMC i6's are internally balanced and the v8's are externally balanced. You will need to find a machine shop that will match the 360 balance to the 4.0 flexplate and use the later mitsu/bosch starter.


The 4.0, 258/4.2, and all the AMC V-8s share the same bell housing bolt pattern. So, yes, the motor will bolt to the trans...

First thought is: Should be a great performer. Higher HP potential, less weight, further back in the chassis. Should be quicker off the line, and handle better.
DX the distributor on the 360 and get a DUI HEI conversion distributor.

It will not sit further back in the chassis. The 4.0 has a recess in the firewall that it sits in that the 360 will not fit in. The AMC v8 is a bit heavier than a 4.0, especially with an iron intake on it. The HEI distributor is a good swap but doesnt get you much more than a Ford TFI cap and rotor on the stock distributor with a hot coil will get you. For the money there are better things to invest in.


k.
 
^^^THIS


also, his AMC 360 rig on 35's can't keep up with my I6 on 37's.

Lotta work to lose performance and economy... :)
 
it would have more power, be more reliable, and get better gas mileage.

Keep in mind, even stroking it, the power comes from the cam and head. a decent port and polish, a quality cam (Comp 235 or such) and good aftermarket valve springs, maybe big chevy valves.

Talyn could probably give you better info there.
 
It depends what you want and how much you want to spend.

The stroker will bolt in but you will need some fuel mods.. like larger injectors and some form of map sensor adjustment if you injectors are a tad small or large. A wide band O2 setup would help identify what your injectors are doing for you. Other than that the usual bolt on external items would help. Header, 99+ intake, 2.5" exhaust, 62mm throttle body. Of course you could always add those later. You could do a simple stroker with a minimum overbore, 4.2L crank, 4.2L rods, 4.0L pistons, 3 angle valve job, etc. You could run KB944 forged pistons with 4.0L rods what leaves the piston in the bore more at BDC and as suppose to give you more torque.

505 performance and another company sells after market piston rods that are stronger. In the way of cranks there have been several new aftermarket offerings in the past 2 years or so. Scat cranks now offers a new 4.2L crank that is around $400, making it hard to justify finding a used crank + grinding. Hesco and 505 also have pricier options on cranks as well.

You have a few options on heads as well. You can just go with a rebuilt stock head with a 3 angle valve job. 30-32* back cut valves will help with he flow at low lift. You could do a small polish and port your self using Standard abrasive's kit. Just enough work to clean it up, not drastically change anything. I wouldn't go with larger valves as I haven't seen any proof that they are an improvement to use them. However, stainless swirl polished valves may help. No one makes one specifically for the 4.0L head, but the valves for a 5.2L/5.9L Magnum engine would work. Since we are talking about the Magnum engines, for drop in vale springs the Mopar Performance springs are a good choice. Another option on the head is you can have someone professionally polish and port it for you along with matching the intake to the head. I think it was Patriot Performance that had a head that was ported and had some springs installed already. Look around ebay as I have seen a few P&P heads come up every now and then for reasonable costs. If you want an aluminum head there is the Hesco head, which has respectable flow numbers and a few advantages over the iron head. Buts its not cheap.

As for the cam, it depends where you want the power. A common cam used is the Comp Cam 68-231-4. It makes a bunch of low end torque. If thats what you want the 68-231-4 may be a good choice. However, I wanted something different. I went with Hesco's RVOB cam which moves the power higher up in the RPM. Isky has a nice grind as well that I used for a bit. I would also recommend talking to some of the smaller cam manufactures about a custom cam.


Now, as for vs. a V8. If you want to make a lot of power a V8 maybe the way to go.. maybe not an AMC. On a NA stroker you are limited to around the 300 hp area. Sure you could go all out with a high dollar crank, some stronger piston rods, .060" over forged pistons and Hesco's head and that might get you over 300. But by that time it might have been cheaper to go the V8 route. Or you could always add a supercharger or turbo to the stroker as well, but again the V8 may have been cheaper. The V8 won't be 100% bolt in and you may need to modify motor mounts, swap the transmission, maybe make a gauge or two work, etc. If you want something easy to build and install with, fairly cheap and comes with a nice power boost than the stroker would probably be the best bet. And you don't have to go outrageous with it either.
 
When I said the V-8 would sit further back in the chassis, I mis-spoke. What I meant was the weight of the engine would be further back in the chassis then a 4.0. The 4.0 is heavier then most V-8s, and about 1/3 of the engine is in front of the front axle. A 360 is about 8" shorter then a 4.0. Installing the 360 on the stock trans without moving the trans would result in the overall weight shifting back. Even if you have to move the whole power train forward an inch or so, there's still going to be less weight forward of the front axle.
Correct, the engine wouldn't actually be shifted back. My bad. Sorry about the misunderstanding.
 
I am sure the swap could be done but I sure as hell wouldn't do it with a stock 360. You might get the V8 sound but the renix is right there in horsepower.

I did my stroker on the cheap, I was poor AND in a hurry lol. I did the budget stroker with 4.2 crank, 4.2 rods, 4.0 pistons. I bought a 4.2 reman crank from Orielly's for $180 that came with bearings. Only thing I did even remotley performance like was getting it balanced and useing the crane 753901(IIRC) camshaft. That was 8 years ago, its got almost 40K miles on it now.

Its nice haveing everything be reliable like stock. It will idle in the trails with the AC on all day long with triple digit outside temps, the cooling system is completly stock. The only time it even has what could be considered problems would be on cold starts when the temps are in the single digits. It starts right up but its pissed, it lopes real hard and surges some as the computer tries to figure things out but it only takes 30 seconds or less for it to smooth out. It acually sounds kinda cool lol. My jeep wieghs 4300lbs and has 35s on it and the power is great. It will run 80mph on the cruise in overdrive with the AC on all day any day.

I have driven and ridden in a few AMC 360 powered vehicles and my Jeep would tear them up in a drag race :)
 
Problem here is everyone's comparing stock 360 to built, stroked 4.0's. I've seen close to 400 horse naturally aspirated 360's. Show me 1 straight 6 that can claim that power.
 
Right...of course we're comparing built 4.0s to a stock 360. If you're going to spend the money on swapping in the 360, it would be good to know what else you can get for that money, especially if it might be better. I'm contemplating doing a stroker when my engine comes up for rebuild, possibly sooner depending on cash flow.

As far as a straight 6 claiming over 400 horse...look up the Jan 2010 issue of JP and find their article "Insane Inline II". They built a 5.0 stroker and then turbo'd it and hit 556hp on their first dyno pull. After tuning and tweaking, they hit 692hp. You can find the whole write up at 505performance's page.
 
Problem here is everyone's comparing stock 360 to built, stroked 4.0's. I've seen close to 400 horse naturally aspirated 360's. Show me 1 straight 6 that can claim that power.

Eric Filar was pushing 300 on a non stroked non induction 4.0. Stroked 6's are getting up near 700 horses with the right build. 350-400 horses on a streetable build is incredibly common.

And at 300 horses, people are still getting 20 mpg. Find *that* in a 360.
 
Now we are comparing ultra high end built 6's. Anyone spending that kind of money to build a 6 is nuts, not to mention smogging a turbo huge cammed engine won't happen. Every stroked crate motor available is under 300 horsepower. If you took that 19 psi turbo of that 505 motor, it wouldn't make 400 horses. As I originally said show me a
Naturally Aspirated 6 making 400 horsepower.
 
You mention smogging a late model 360 and then mention 400HP. I am willing to bet those two won't go together very well.

If your going to go through the expense to build up an AMC 360 I would take that money and look into an LSX swap from a stock truck or something. Fuel injected, smog legal?(unsure) better mpg and better power.
 
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