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ARB RD30 cap bolts

O

Oatmeal

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Cedar City, UT
Just picked up a used first generation RD30 air locker for my XJ's D30 (for really cheap). I've been doing a little research and I've learned that the cylinder cap bolts have a propensity for coming loose.......whats the cure?
What have you done or used to keep this from happening.......Loctite, lockwashers, safety wiring.....tack welds??.......hmmm, how about drilling and dowelling the cap?
What have you found that works?
I'll be running 33s with 4.88s if it makes a difference.

Thanks in advance-----------Hans
 
I've got the same locker setup. I did some reading about them and the 2 big things I kept seeing were to run some kind of heavy duty diff cover to help prevent housing flex in the center section and to make sure that the bearing preload is tight. I can't recall what the numbers that were suggested but I know it was TIGHT.

I've seen people tack the endcap on and also tack the bolts to the endcap as well. I personally don't think welding them up is a great idea since ARB still does offer some of the internal parts for repairs.

If you tear up the main case your pretty much SOL for parts.
 
The way I read the other posts when I was searching is that the center chunk flexes causing the bearings to unload and allow the locker endcap to push out from the force of the spider gears against it.

I'm not sure if strengthening the tubes is really going to stop that from happening.
 
wheeling365 said:
I've got the same locker setup. I did some reading about them and the 2 big things I kept seeing were to run some kind of heavy duty diff cover to help prevent housing flex in the center section and to make sure that the bearing preload is tight. I can't recall what the numbers that were suggested but I know it was TIGHT.

I've seen people tack the endcap on and also tack the bolts to the endcap as well. I personally don't think welding them up is a great idea since ARB still does offer some of the internal parts for repairs.

If you tear up the main case your pretty much SOL for parts.
Click to expand...
Hmm, that's a good point.
You can get all of the parts EXCEPT the main case.
Maybe a good heavy duty cover will help it keep it's shape.
I'm in the process of building a case spreader (those stupid things are friggin expensive) that'll work for both my 44 and 30 as I really don't want to fight getting the carrier(s) in and out......especially when trying to get the preload (it gets pretty tight!) right.----------Hans
 
wheeling365 said:
The way I read the other posts when I was searching is that the center chunk flexes causing the bearings to unload and allow the locker endcap to push out from the force of the spider gears against it.

I'm not sure if strengthening the tubes is really going to stop that from happening.
Click to expand...
Yeah, I guess you're right.
This is a really nice setup: http://ironrockoffroad.com/Merchant...IROR&Product_Code=IR-SD30TS&Category_Code=XDT but, a little too pricey for me.......I'll give the heavy cover a try and maybe a combination of Loctite, safety wiring and sensible driving (yeah right).
Hey, what do those "locking tabs" (from the ARB parts listing) look like?-------Hans
 
I can't say for certain that its the bolts working loose in the end of the locker or if its just the amount of force exerted against them that is stretching them to the point of failure.

I would try some blue lock tite on them. Depending what grade of red you use you might have issues getting them back out if needed. I wouldn't suggest heat to release the red since the air cup seal and piston are rubber/plastic.

I can't view the pics in this thread but I am pretty sure http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1016928&page=12

Starting at post #178 he goes thru how to rebuild a first gen ARB D30.
 
I would not have an issue using the red locktight, but it also won't fix the problem. The cases need a mechanical element to stop the case from bending and working the bolts loose. The locktight is not enough to do this alone. Safety wire is your best best to elminate the problem. Tack welding the bolts could hold for a while but I wouldn't do it. I have also seen good luck with the use of locking tabs on the bolt head to prevent movement. I can get you some pictures if you need them but google should be able to find some. A good full truss will also help the problem.
 
I had issues with the bolts that hold the t-case onto the adapter housing on my early Bronco's swapped in NP435 and I solved that by replacing them with studs and cone shaped (think of a lug nut) nuts.
I wonder if something like that would work?
Hmmm.....Toyota uses cone washers to hold all sorts of stuff tight......with great success.
Anybody know where I might possibly find metric (properly graded) nuts and studs (long enough)?
I'm asking all these questions because, I'd like to explore all avenues BEFORE putting it all together.
Thanks again in advance---------Hans
 
Im running the old style ARB D30 locker.No problems in 10yrs,just get a good diff cover, that should be enough.
 
The cap is made with a mild bevel to it for preload...so if the bolts have already started coming loose it's most likely because that preload is already worn out of it. No amount of trussing or reinforcement to the axle is going to stop the bolts. You're better off with an RD100. :)
 
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