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Alternator Amp upgrade - minimum wiring requirements?

M

Markos

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Seattle, WA
Hi Folks,

My alternator is dead and I'm upgrading to a 160a unit from an '03 Durango. I know what I need to do from a grinding and wiring standpoint. I have everything I need. I decided to make the wires myself. I'm using 1 awg wire that I already measured out and cut. I have a 175 'mega fuse' and holder that I bought from Napa.

My problem is that my work schedule doesn't agree with Napa's store hours, and I need to get the terminal ends crimped on. The tool is $80 so the guy at Napa volunteered to do it for me. I just need to go in during store hours.


I have my main wire to the PDC crimped up and ready to go. Is this enough to get the Jeep up and running or should I hold out on the install and get all my wires ready to go?


'99 XJ 4.0
 
Markos said:
Hi Folks,

My alternator is dead and I'm upgrading to a 160a unit from an '03 Durango. I know what I need to do from a grinding and wiring standpoint. I have everything I need. I decided to make the wires myself. I'm using 1 awg wire that I already measured out and cut. I have a 175 'mega fuse' and holder that I bought from Napa.

My problem is that my work schedule doesn't agree with Napa's store hours, and I need to get the terminal ends crimped on. The tool is $80 so the guy at Napa volunteered to do it for me. I just need to go in during store hours.


I have my main wire to the PDC crimped up and ready to go. Is this enough to get the Jeep up and running or should I hold out on the install and get all my wires ready to go?


'99 XJ 4.0
Click to expand...

I would wait and do the wiring and alternator all at once...
The factory cables (8 ga) and fusible link are not designed to be used with a 160A alternator.
 
Last edited:
You should be fine. As long as you don't use a winch or something that draws a huge amount of power the alternator will only make what you use. So the 8ga will get you there. :)

I'll be more specific. It will work to get you to the store to get all ur cables done. Really good only if necessary.
 
Last edited:
Purchase one of 5-90 (Jon)'s cable kits. 4ga or 0ga
 
Johnnie Walker said:
Purchase one of 5-90 (Jon)'s cable kits. 4ga or 0ga
Click to expand...


The advice above is the advice you should take. 4AWG minimum.

The factory 8AWG cable and a 160AMP alternator is asking for trouble. I call it bad advice,....unless you can guarantee you will never have a low battery and all other XJ electronics will remain at or below the OME ampage. Trying to pass 160 amps through an 8AWG wire would be like a fireman hooking a garden hose to a fire engine pump,...something will give...:explosion
 
Fastdemise said:
You should be fine. As long as you don't use a winch or something that draws a huge amount of power the alternator will only make what you use. So the 8ga will get you there. :)

I'll be more specific. It will work to get you to the store to get all ur cables done. Really good only if necessary.
Click to expand...

Thanks for reading my first post, I know it was rather long winded. This is the info that I need. I'm starting the work tomorrow, and still can't make it to Napa by 5PM.

This is what I will be doing first:
* Install 160a alternator
* Install 1AWG Main wire from alternator to PDC
* Install 175a fusible link

Johnnie Walker said:
Purchase one of 5-90 (Jon)'s cable kits. 4ga or 0ga
Click to expand...

Did you read my post? Your recommendations are valid for most, however I already mentioned that I have the 1AWG cables. Why would I purchase new ones? FYI - according to 5-90's site, he only sells 4AWG or 1AWG. John's cables are a good deal, especially if you figure in the cost of a good crimping tool, heat shrink, etc. I would have purchased a set from him, but I was under a time constraint and couldn't wait for shipping. In the end, I got held up by Napa (who is helping me out and I'm thankful).
 
techno1154 said:
The advice above is the advice you should take. 4AWG minimum.

The factory 8AWG cable and a 160AMP alternator is asking for trouble. I call it bad advice,....unless you can guarantee you will never have a low battery and all other XJ electronics will remain at or below the OME ampage. Trying to pass 160 amps through an 8AWG wire would be like a fireman hooking a garden hose to a fire engine pump,...something will give...:explosion
Click to expand...

I have no winch or aftermarket stereo. I'm intending to upgrade the wire to the PDC and hold off a week or so for the other wires. The only wire I would see as an issue up front would be the wire from the alternator to the power distribution. I just want to make sure that I'm not missing something while in limp mode.
 
oh and I also did a upgrade to my wiring for my ZJ 136A . The one that actually made a noticeable difference (engine idle) was the dumb little braided wire connecting engine block to chassis. Just used 8ga that I had extra from my stereo install.
Let us know if you notice a difference in the roughness of ur idle after the wire upgrade. After you finish with your mains, u put any thought into headlights?
 
Fastdemise said:
After you finish with your mains, u put any thought into headlights?
Click to expand...

I've been running H4's with IPF lenses on my XJ for 10 years. I've intentionally tried to avoid adding wiring complexity and relays to the Jeep. I've had 30amp headlight relays fail at the worst time and I've tried to avoid that scenario. However, as the jeep has gotten older, every little bit of juice helps. I ran 100w/80w H4's with 130w H3's on my old daily driver with Bosch relays for low, high, and the driving lights. I understand the advantage but it hasn't been a priority on the Jeep.
 
I did a 160 durango. And 2ga wiring.. Crimped by setting on top of bolt and smashing w hammer then taped firmly .lol no problems.. And I noticed a huge difference.. As far as grindng the bracket take it out and you'll see it kinda almost fits.. Grind ntill it does easy since bracket is aluminum. Remount bracket and then grind down the little nub on block that sticks past bracket.. Easy. Make shure you sand and clean all your contacts real good.. I did and have had trouble free operation..

used to be able to watch the gauge slowly drop (high power stereo) until my head unit would reset due to lack of juice..

also did headlight wiring upgrade and h4 housings/bulbs..
I can run my brights stereo loud and run my winch and ac .. (even though I never listen to radio while wheeling). Without budging the gauge...

I almost didn't run a wire to the starter if your not planning on it I recommend it.. Between that and my old mud caked alt. Being replaced w a new one. I get faster starts than anytime since I've owned it
 
Well the new plan is to go to leave work early on Friday and go to Napa in the afternoon. I can swap the alternator and get most of it going then finish up the wiring after that. If for some reason they can't crimp on the ends I'll try the BFH technique. Thanks!
 
You thread title is misleading....this is all I have to add to the discussion:
110665.jpg


http://www.toolsource.com/hammer-indent-crimping-tool-p-110665.html

Like all Jeep problems, this one can be solved with $20 and a BFH.
 
I ended up using a torch, solder, and the crimp ends just filled with solder. You get to play with fire. What's not to like? :)
 
Well I completed the alternator install today. It was pretty uneventful. I swapped out all of the cables with exception to the braided ground strap. I still need to pick up a bigger cable terminal.
 
Fastdemise said:
I ended up using a torch, solder, and the crimp ends just filled with solder. You get to play with fire. What's not to like? :)
Click to expand...


^^^ This

I always solder and use the shrink tube with the sealer in all my electrical connections when possible. Especially on battery cables or other cables that carry a lot of current. I've just seen to many crimp connections fail, for many different reasons.
 
Monster Mopar said:
^^^ This

I always solder and use the shrink tube with the sealer in all my electrical connections when possible. Especially on battery cables or other cables that carry a lot of current. I've just seen to many crimp connections fail, for many different reasons.
Click to expand...

I'm a new fan of the heat shrink with the sealer in it. I've been using heat shrink for years and never knew it existed. Napa sells some pretty large tubing that will shrink about 50% down to 1ga wiring.


I'm not sold on solder-on connections. I'm sure that they work fine, but 99.99% of the factory connections are crimp-on, including sensitive components.
 
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