Instrument cluster lighting question

I was installing a tach gauge on my XJ and had a power and ground wire from the circuit that involves the cluster lighting accidentally touch. I saw smoke from under dash and lights went out. Fuse isnt blown.. 86 jeep wagoneer. any ideas?

Next time, disconnect the battery first?

LOL

Sorry, could not resist, as I never disconnect the battery either. I would check the wires next. Fuse link under the hood, near the battery? Get out the volt/ohm meter and check the wires.

long story short, I had additional power running into the circuit that runs all the lights to the gauges and cig lighter and stuff (i didnt realize it till after the fact that it was due to a relay being wired wrong) The relay wiring problem is fixed. The headlights still come on and off but the interior gauge lights and accessory lights dont. When they blew I was adjusting the dimmer up and down and then I saw smoke come out right under neath the gauge cluster where all those wires are but when I look under there I dont see any problems and the fuse isnt blown. What I am getting at is wouldn't the smoke in the cab be indicative of something in the cab being the problem? I mean it was just a little puff of smoke, but common sense tells me its something with the wiring in the cab and not under the hood.. i am not discounting your advice and I agree that I need to check the fuse links by the battery but do you know of what could cause the smoke and resulting burnout of the lights inside the cab right under the cluser? Could I have fried the dimmer switch? If so would the headlight part of the switch still work?

Check for voltage on both sides of Fuses don’t just Look at the Fuses
#5 -10 Amps, Dome Light, Courtesy Lights, Glove Box Light, Cargo Light, Radio Memory, Power Mirrors, Teltak Connector.
Or
#8 -7.5 Amps, Gauges, Instrument Cluster, Seat Belt Warning, Headlight Delay, Chime Module and Overhead Console.

this may be a stupid question but i did check the fuse for continuity but not for voltage, how do i do this when it is down in the fuse box while the voltage is running through it?

If you had continuity across the fuse with the fused removed from the fuse panel then they are OK.
If not ground one side of your tester to a good ground, then take the other probe of your tester and insert it in to the both sockets of the fuse being tested with the fuse in place. If 12V is noted on both sides then fuse it is conducting voltage and OK. With this method there is no need to even remove the fuse.
I missed two
#7 - 10 Amp, Parking Lights, Headlight Warning Chime/Buzzer, Instrument Panel Light Dimmer.
And
#9 - 5 Amp, Instrument Panel Illumination.

Yes the dimmer switch can go bad and still leave the head lights working. Yes I would looking for the smoking gun under the dash first. Ignition switch perhaps? Ground?

What is so confusing to me is that no fuses blew. The whole circuit went out but no fuses blew.. Weird! Basically I had 12 volts running through the cigarette lighter wires into the circuit.. ill have to follow the lines from the lighter and see what they run through and look for something thats burnt up.