89 got wet now wont start

so went out with some buddys to play in the woods. we went spalshing though some puddles and a miles after or so the third time though jeep just cut out.( http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xp2I1cveRHc ) no knock sputter or any tell tale signs. i did notice it was idel a little on the low side.
so its got fuel and pressure to the fuel rail
its got spark to the plugs
cap was dry
after alot of cranking the plugs were dry and no fuel smell

so i figured cps did some serching on here and this site came up a few times
http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Engine/Basic_Sensors_Diagnostics.htm
i dont have a multi meeter handy but i do have my power probe. i did the test where you atach the test leads to the terminals on the cps and crank. got 2.2 volts. checked the other end of the harnes and it has a positve 3.3 volts on both terminals
i also hear a high pitch wine very faint when the ignition is on. cant pinpoint it is this normal?

any ideas any one?

If you have spark, the problem is not likely your crank sensor. If you are missing the crank signal, you won't have spark. You do however, need a strong, blue, snapping spark to start the engine.

A piece of hardware under the hood that HATES moisture is the throttle position sensor. I would suspect that and try swapping it out.

Look in the air box and see what kind of shape your filter is in.

After a lot of cranking the plugs would likely be a little wet and smell like fuel????

If your air filter is wet, clean around the spark plugs holes, take them out, turn the motor over for 15 seconds or so, with the coil wire removed and the throttle full open, clean the plugs and put them back in.

While you have the plugs out, look down a few plug holes with.a flashlight,maybe turn the motor over a little so you can see the top of a few pistons.

After getting a motor wet, I usually take all of the plug cables off the plugs and clean the inside of the boot, the same at the distributor cap and the coil wire. Make sure there is no water down in the bottom of the distributor under the sync sensor. Blowing a little air in there is really the only way to know for sure.

hmm i thought the spark was largely controlled by the pickup in the dizzy.
so what controls the injectors to fire? they dont seem to be working
i also checked the tps every thing seems to be functioning fine

That thing in the distributor controls something, but I'll be darned if I know what, it sure isn't spark or fuel IMO. I ran my 88 once for months with it disconnected and never noticed anything different.
The crank position sensor, on the top left (as you are sitting in the drivers seat) of the bell housing, along with the tone ring on the flywheel or flex plate is what controls spark and fires the injectors. Serves the same function as the pick up in other manufactures setups.

The injectors are fired by drivers in the ECU, each injector has it's own driver, they all do share a common ground. If you have spark, the injectors are likely working.

You may not have any fuel pressure at the fuel rail.

The motor has to be cranking over fairly quickly, really slow crank won't get it done. A very weak battery and you can have multiple sensor and ECU issues.

I've gotten my motor wet before and had so much electricity leaking through the mud and water to ground, that there wasn't enough left for the necessary components. Under your relay block it is pretty much wide open and packed with 20 year old die electric grease, that is likely pretty crispy by now and not doing much of a job, Any connector is likely to have water in it, most don't seal well. You can do a quick system check at the large yellow wire at the ignition module, anything less than around 9 volts and starting gets real iffy.
Another good spot to check for voltage when you first turn the key from off to run, is the ballast resistor, both ends. One end will have less voltage and this is normal. when you first turn the key from off to run, the ECU fires up the fuel pump for a few seconds to fill the fuel rail with fuel. You should get power at the fuel pump ballast resistor for a few seconds every time you turn the key form off to run. There won't be constant voltage there unless the motor is cranking over or running.

The thing is I am getting spark and the injectors are not fireing. I do have fuel at the fuel rail. And plenty of pressure as well

How did you decide the injectors aren't working? The electrical pulse to the injectors is quick.

Bombed through a hole with my '88 back in the day... Tested the same as you did, all good. Checked the filter and it was moist, but it wasn't til I pulled it that I found the problem - good quart or so of water in the bottom of the airbox.

so we tested the cps and every test say its good. we replaced it any way. still injectors wont fire. still have spark
pored some gas directly into the throttle body while cranking and it tried to start.

any idea what it could be?

There are only a few things I can think of that would shut down the injectors. One is if the throttle is wide open when cranking. I guess it's possible to have a dead short in the TPS (flat three wire connector).

Should be easy to test, the head scratcher is how did it get a dead short. I don't know that it is possible to get a dead short through water with 5 volts. It can pass some current through water, can it pass enough to fool the ECU into thinking the throttle is *all the way open*, seems unlikely.

Another is if the throttle is all the way closed and engine RPM is above 1200 RPM, the injectors shut down. Seems more unlikely to have two false inputs at the same time, that would shut the injectors down.

Another is if the ECU detects no CPS pulse (or the pulse is less than 300 RPM). My experience is if the CPS is bad, spark is the first thing to go.

There may be some other absolutely necessary inputs for injector function, but I haven't run in to any yet. Maybe no MAP reference signal, maybe no engine temperature inputs. But it seems likely that there are defaults for these failures.

I always check the ground for the injectors, since I found a single broken injector wire at the bend in the harness near the firewall. This area of the harness flexes a lot and fatigue breaks in the individual wires under the insulation is likely.

To have all the injectors drivers to fail at once seems unlikely, to have the power to stop, for all the injector drivers and not affect spark also seems unlikely. If your getting spark the ECU would be far down my list as a cause for no injector pulse.

I'd make absolutely sure the injectors aren't firing. I'd expect a fuel problem before the injectors if I had spark.

I haven't heard anything out of 5-90 or EcoMike lately, they both know the system better than I do.

ok were on the fire wall is this wire? and what collar is it?

Check the black wire near the front injector and test to ground. All the rest of the injectors are spliced into the same ground wire. The same ground wire ends up at the dipstick holder. The colored wires running to the injectors are the seperate wires from the ECU injectors drivers and unlikely to fail all at once.

well i grounded the black wire to the batt. still no luck. could it be the stator? herd a few people talk bout it controlling puls with

By stator I guess you are referring to the cam sync sensor in the distributor. In my experience it really doesn't do much, unplug it if you think it might be shorted. The worst that will happen is the injectors will fire out of sequence, it won't keep the motor from running.
I'd check the TPS (flat 3 prong connector), make sure you haven't got a short. See if it is putting out something round 0.8 volts. Check to see if your 5 volt supply is working and somewhere around 4.7-4.8 volts. It is the same 5 volt supply to the MAP.
I'm not sure if no MAP reference signal will shut down the injectors or not. I do know it is doubtful to start or run.

so im out of ideas. im gona pull the dizzy and replace it. read on a few diff places that the "cam sink sensor" helps controll the injectors. if its not this then its gotta be the computer cause i cant think of any thing else that it could be

Did you do a voltage and sweep test on both connectors of the TPS.
Quote from 8Mud “There are only a few things I can think of that would shut down the injectors. One is if the throttle is wide open when cranking. I guess it's possible to have a dead short in the TPS”.
If the TPS is sending a faulty wide open throttle signal to the ECU the ECU has converted into the anti flood mode which will then stops all injector pulse signals.

You stated I pored some gas directly into the throttle body while cranking and it tried to start.

yes i checked the tps. it checked hood

new dizzy no start.
disonnected tps still no start reads .4 volts at closed throttle 5 volts at wot
what else could it be? how many volta is required to operate the injector?

I honestly don't know if an open circuit in the MAP circuit will cause the injectors not to fire. I do know I've unplugged the MAP with the engine running and had it die, I didn't think to check why, whether it was spark or the injectors or both.

Running down to buy anything without doing some test IMO rarely works out.

I'd check the MAP for 5 volt supply and do the book test on it. You never really know if it is the supply circuit, the wiring or the sensor.

The injectors are twelve volts, each injector has it's own driver as far as I know.

I've heard rumors that an open or short engine (ECU) temperature sender can cause grief, I have no experience with this. I do know that harness (for the knock sensor, engine temp sensor and O2 sensor) regularly cooks on the exhaust behind the brackets for the power steering etc. in a place almost impossible to see.

It's also a good idea to check the TPS connector, a test on the TPS side of the connector, isn't necessarily what the ECU is reading. I've had high resistance in the connector itself.

This is the first time I have read this thread but I have a simple question. Since you think you aren't getting any fuel due injectors, have you cranked it while squirting some carb cleaner or starting fluid down the throttle body?

That is a 30 second way to determine if you are indeed getting no fuel. If it tries to fire, your whole ignition system is most likely fine.

The other thing to do is to pull a plug and see if it is wet fouled. Reading the plugs is the BEST way to find out what is going on in an engine.