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JKS over axle track bar bracket

I bought on once but it didn't fit well on my disconnect axle housing. I believe it did get used sucessfully on a non-disconnect housing.
 
i have it on mine. works well. was pretty easy to burn in. fit pretty decently. frankz has a good idea in adding a small gusset on the back side of it. i am running 1.5" x .25" DOM for steering as well

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Really glad this thread came along. I've got this bracket sitting in my garage waiting to go on when I install the hydro assist. I'll probably do the DOM/heim steering as well.
 
I bought on once but it didn't fit well on my disconnect axle housing. I believe it did get used sucessfully on a non-disconnect housing.

I've done a couple on disco housings, you just have to trim a little bit extra off the tube side of the bracket and notch it to fit. I've even cut and welded the same bracket onto 3 different D30's with no problems.
 
I ran heims for a while, switched back to TRE's. Glad I did.

Don't forget to check the laws in your state regarding heims on steering systems....just to be safe.


Any specific reason for the switch back? I'll be installing hydro assist soon, so I figured heims was the best way to go to setup the steering configuration for it.
 
Any specific reason for the switch back? I'll be installing hydro assist soon, so I figured heims was the best way to go to setup the steering configuration for it.

Heims just don't work for the DD,TRE's are just better suited for high milage/lower maintenence.
 
<shrug> I've had QA1 Heim joints on my 94 for several years, they still are tight, and have over a hundred thousand miles on them (most of those in Chicago salt.)

Probably the single biggest issue with the OAB is that you'll end up with a trackbar that's a few inches shorter. While it still may be parallel to the drag link, you can end up with some bumpsteer issues as the suspension cycles. The end of the trackbar will move an a smaller arc than the end of the drag link.
 
Why?
The cost of a quality heim is greater than a Chevy TRE.
If you break a TRE on the trail it's going to be alot easier to find a parts house that sells Chevy TRE's than it is a fab shop that carries TRE's on a Sunday afternoon, or even on a Saturday afternoon. Yes, spares don't take up that much room, but who wants to tote around $100+ in spare left and right hand heims.
Depending on the application, heims will also require misalignment spacers which adds to the cost.
Hard to get a double shear pitman arm for a heim joint.
 
Why?
The cost of a quality heim is greater than a Chevy TRE.
If you break a TRE on the trail it's going to be alot easier to find a parts house that sells Chevy TRE's than it is a fab shop that carries TRE's on a Sunday afternoon, or even on a Saturday afternoon. Yes, spares don't take up that much room, but who wants to tote around $100+ in spare left and right hand heims.
Depending on the application, heims will also require misalignment spacers which adds to the cost.
Hard to get a double shear pitman arm for a heim joint.

Uh...have you actually priced out heims...?

$13.50 for a 3/4 Chromo, Heat Treated, Cryo'd heim from Ruffstuff.

You can get a set (1 RH and 1 LH) with jam nuts, tube adapters, and misalignment spacers for ~$50.

A QUALITY TRE (Moog IMO) is right around $30.

Who says you need a double shear pitman arm for a heim joint...?

Just playing devils advocate here :)
 
Heims just don't work for the DD,

:sure:

I guess I should get rid of the 2 year old, Ruffstuff hiems on my DD. Even though they're still as tight as the day I bought them.
Buy quality heims and keep them lubed and you won't have an issue.

LIke Frank said though, check your local laws. Some states have laws against using anything other then TREs, or using welded linkages in your steering.
 
another reason heim's are superior, you COULD single shear a heim.

only reason i run tre's is durability, the boots keep em cleaner and happier. i know they make boots for heims, but i dont think our lousy 10~ of front wheel travel hardly needs it.
 
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