Bolts that hold rear driveshaft in?

Pulled the rear driveshaft and 3 of the 4 bolts came out fine, 4th one rounded on me. Its the little ones that hold the driveshaft onto the rear axle.

Where can i get another one of these?

Napa has them

souske said:

Napa has them

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thanks, i'll give them a shot

Typically 1/4"-28x1" reduced hex head. I replace them with quality socket heads - I find them easier to work with and more reliable. Torque to 14 pound-feet, apply LocTite #222 or #242 (#242 preferred.)

Recommend replacing the straps and screws every time they're pulled. The straps can be reused if you're careful with your inspection and you anneal them to remove work-hardening, but screws are cheap insurance and should just be replaced outright (dropping a driveshaft for no good reason sucks...)

called u-joint strap and bolts. Just did the same thing on my Jeep, found them at Checker for $5.50 for 4 bolts and 2 straps. Just for good measure I'm going to replace the ones on the other driveshaft too...

collkid said:

called u-joint strap and bolts. Just did the same thing on my Jeep, found them at Checker for $5.50 for 4 bolts and 2 straps. Just for good measure I'm going to replace the ones on the other driveshaft too...

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thanks for the info guys. i didn't know they made specific kits, and that you should replace them everytime you pull the driveshaft

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...--Help_22148749-P_2075_R|GRPUCVSAMS_910700954___

robhurlburt said:

that you should replace them everytime you pull the driveshaft

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...thats debateable. just so you know, 5-90 gets joy out of sourcing new bolts ....
it's not a trophy truck... if in doubt, replace em sure. but replace em every time? naaaaaah

I said to heck with the straps and got u-bolts..... If/when they break there is no worries if you can get any remaining pieces out.

xcm said:

...thats debateable. just so you know, 5-90 gets joy out of sourcing new bolts ....
it's not a trophy truck... if in doubt, replace em sure. but replace em every time? naaaaaah

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I do believe that is per FSM, not per me. But, it seems like a good idea to me - they are under a good deal of stress. Straps can and do stretch, and the screws are stressed in shear under the head (part of the reason they used fine threads, I'm sure - greater material shear stress area...) Besides, the screws are cheap enough to source - order them in bulk from an MRO house if you want to get good parts (or from Fastenal - either way, you'll have more control over where they come from and can make sure you're NOT getting them from bloody China!)

5-90, can you give a simple description of the annealing process for those of us tht are uninformed?

souske said:

5-90, can you give a simple description of the annealing process for those of us tht are uninformed?

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Annealing is a "softening" process for metal. For iron-based metals, it involves heating the metal through and allowing it to cool gradually.

You don't want to kill the heat-treatment entirely, but most people don't have access to that much heat (it takes something like 700-800*F to fully anneal steel.)

Home annealing is simple enough - put the parts in your oven, and heat to 400-450*F until they're heated through (it takes about 15 minutes to through heat straps in a fully-heated oven.)

Then, turn the oven off. Don't even open the door until the following day - allow a minimum of eight hours to cool.

Alternatively, pack the part in warm sand - and leave it in there for a couple of days.

This is why I keep several sets of straps on hand - having at least three simplifies things. One in service, one annealed set ready for use, and one being annealed (just in case. It's an extension of "Two is One, One is None.")

Screws? Don't bother annealing them - just buy a box of decent-quality socket head capscrews and pull a set of out of the box when you need them. Toss the old ones when you take them out. Don't forget the LocTite!

I thought those bolts were 5/16-24...?

MoparManiac said:

I thought those bolts were 5/16-24...?

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That would be the screws that hold the front driveshaft to the transfer case output yoke.