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will it work and or help

nfm

NAXJA Forum User
i have a 99 XJ with the stock axles (Chrysler 8.25 rear, dana 30 front)

my goal is to run a 35x12.50 tire.

i found this on ebay and wanted some input on these axles.

would this be worth the time and investment to get them to fit under my rig?

thanks in advance.
 
My opinion: That's a lot of axle for 35s.

I've run 35s on my 30/44 combo for years without breaking.

I think your 825 should be the 29spline, which would be comparable to my 44.

Unless you really like to use it hard, I say run what you got.

Robert
 
i know this may be overkill,

but i want it to be "bomb" proof.

i know these axles need a little love, but i can spend a little money here and there and end up with something pretty solid.
 
Well, the front 44 will most likely have the same 297 ujoints as your 30, so you'll go to a LOT of work and expense to retain the same weak link.

And the punkin on that 60 is gonna hang awfully low if you've only got 35s holding it up.

But sure, if you really want to, it can be done.

I'll let someone with experience chime in on what all it'll take.

Good luck with it!

Robert
 
I run 35x12.5 Kevlars on my stock dana 30 (267 joints) and welded 27 spline axles in my '92 and havent had a single problem with them.
 
i run 34s on a locked d30 and 27spline 8.25

i think you will bust steering linkages way before you hurt those axles
 
I really appreciate all of the information,

I just don't want to run the 35's and destroy the axles.

So, I would be safe with buying a super 30 kit from superior axle and gear, and putting a locker in the rear?

If so, what lockers could anyone recommend. I have heard very good things about the ARB air lockers, but they are high dollar
 
don't polish the 30, but I'd say your 8.25 will be fine.

Stuff a 44 in the front but unless you are really hard on the go pedal you don't need a 60 rear for 35s.

I wouldn't buy those axles because:
1. front one is drums. They suck, you're going to have to swap knuckles and other stuff to make it decent and I am not sure if that's a closed or open knuckle axle. If it's closed, you're stuck with the drums iirc. Hopefully someone who actually knows something about older IH 44s will pop in.
2. rear one might be one of the old wimpy ones like the J20 rear dana 60

Check into it, there isn't much info in that listing. You can do better pricewise hunting the junkyards yourself, and shipping is going to be a killer on that, at least a few hundred bucks.
 
If you're only locking the rear, I'd just run the 30 as-is.

Carry spare shafts, and don't be stupid with the skinny pedal, but I say it'll hold up fine to 35s, especially open.

If you do want to lock the front, you'll definitely want a selectable of some sort. Both to spare your shafts and joints, and to retain a bit of maneuverability...

And yes, the ARB is expensive. :D

Robert
 
i know this may be overkill,

but i want it to be "bomb" proof.
QUOTE]

hahaha. /\ doesn't everyone

what spline count is the 60. i don't know anything about the travelall that it came in. but there is a good chance you will have to machine out the housing in order to run 35 spline shafts.
 
Is you D30 low pinion or high pinion? If it's an HP, keep it and run it, if it's a LP, find a JY unit to swap it out. Can find a clean straight JY HP D30 for $50-ish.

I'm not running 35s, but 33s (285's) and I'm not a throttle jockey unless I'm in the sand.....I'm running 30 spline alloy shafts and an ARB and I trusses and gusseted the housing.
 
Everything thing break's just stop before break it if you can't make it you can't make it ! But i know when you break a c-clip axle in the middle of a trail it SUCKS getting it back to camp ! So maybe shop around a little more on the axle's ? But once you start it NEVER ends. good luck !
 
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