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Tera Flex long arm

That number changes depending on the amount of lift you have. One persons number isn't going to be the same as yours unless he has everything the same as you. Granted a number from somebody that is close or the same suspension height will be close enough to get you in the ball park.
 
do you have any brake dive with your teraflex setup? a buddy has it and i could barely steer wen it was braking. Not hijaking just asking if that is a common problem with this setup.
 
That number changes depending on the amount of lift you have. One persons number isn't going to be the same as yours unless he has everything the same as you. Granted a number from somebody that is close or the same suspension height will be close enough to get you in the ball park.

Good point, however let me explain what it is Im doing. I have a set of Ruff Stuff uni-rail reinforment's and will soon be welding them on, Im currently sitting on 4.5" of lift (Rusty's coils/Bilstine 5150's) with Currie short arms and the ride is terrible. I dont have the money to buy a long arm, nor do I have the knowlage on how to build one myself....So by the looks of it the TeraFlex kit is basicly just longer lowers mounted under unirail with some hangers. I plan on making my own hanger welded onto the ruffstuff unirail's and reusing my Jonny Joints on a longer arm.

So all I really need I guess is the measurement of the tubing itself.
 
So, you're planning on copying the teraflex kit? The one that has, what looks like, 30+ inch lowers and stock uppers?

If that's your plan, scrap it.
There is a reason hardly anyone uses that kit. With lowers that long and uppers that short, you will get horrible pinion dive when the suspension cycles.
That is one of the worst kits ever made.
 
So, you're planning on copying the teraflex kit? The one that has, what looks like, 30+ inch lowers and stock uppers?

If that's your plan, scrap it.
There is a reason hardly anyone uses that kit. With lowers that long and uppers that short, you will get horrible pinion dive when the suspension cycles.
That is one of the worst kits ever made.

X2,if your going to make something,move the arms inboard and up instead of below the framerail!
 
do you have any brake dive with your teraflex setup? a buddy has it and i could barely steer wen it was braking. Not hijaking just asking if that is a common problem with this setup.
I had serious brake dive when I installed mine. I ended up fabbing up a crossmember and some long upper arms. It works extremely well now with no brake dive.
 
So, you're planning on copying the teraflex kit? The one that has, what looks like, 30+ inch lowers and stock uppers?

If that's your plan, scrap it.
There is a reason hardly anyone uses that kit. With lowers that long and uppers that short, you will get horrible pinion dive when the suspension cycles.
That is one of the worst kits ever made.


Would mid-arms help with this issue? Im really not trying to get monster flex, Im happy with my short arm flex. I just want a smoother riding Jeep because this is my daily driver.
 
Would mid-arms help with this issue? Im really not trying to get monster flex, Im happy with my short arm flex. I just want a smoother riding Jeep because this is my daily driver.

if you are building it yourself why would you only build mid arms... the cost of self built mid arms vs self built long arms is $0 difference
 
Your happy with the performance of your short arms but can't afford and don't really need long arms.

Perfect candiate for drop brackets. Same price or cheaper than
the joints and tubing you will need to build your proposed mid arms.
 
if you are building it yourself why would you only build mid arms... the cost of self built mid arms vs self built long arms is $0 difference


Yeah, because if you buy at least 20 inches of DOM, the metal shop gives you rest for free.:twak:
 
Would mid-arms help with this issue? Im really not trying to get monster flex, Im happy with my short arm flex. I just want a smoother riding Jeep because this is my daily driver.

The rule of thumb for link length is to keep your uppers within atleast 75% of your lca length.

That means with stock length uppers the longest lca you could possibly get away with is 18.75". Which still wouldn't be ideal.

Now, that's just one factor, there is so much more that goes into it.
If you haven't already, I would start doing some research on link setups, and play with the available link calculators.

The easiest setup to build is a mid arm 3-link.
Here's a great thread to get you started on that road. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=816361

Like others have said, if you don't want to go through all the work of building a proper mid or long arm setup, you might be a perfect candidate for drop brackets.
 
The rule of thumb for link length is to keep your uppers within atleast 75% of your lca length.

That means with stock length uppers the longest lca you could possibly get away with is 18.75". Which still wouldn't be ideal.

Now, that's just one factor, there is so much more that goes into it.
If you haven't already, I would start doing some research on link setups, and play with the available link calculators.

The easiest setup to build is a mid arm 3-link.
Here's a great thread to get you started on that road. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=816361

Like others have said, if you don't want to go through all the work of building a proper mid or long arm setup, you might be a perfect candidate for drop brackets.


Cool thanks for the link. As far as drop brakets go, I really dont like them. As far as Long-Arm vs. Mid Arm, that argument can go on forever but my honest opnion is that I like Mid-Arms for my specific use much better. The reasion I thought I would just copy Tera's kit is because I figured Tera had done their reseach and put out a kit that worked, so for that reasion I would going to do long-arm.

I became a fan of Mid-Arms ever since owning my JK's, after some searching around the net I ran into a picture of this set-up using stock JK arms. I would love to go this route because to tell you the honest truth my JK with a 3" lift and stock arms flexs and ride BETTER than my XJ on a 4.5" lift with currie jonny joints. Not only does it flex better, but the road noise is MUCH MUCH quiter due to the rubber in the arms insead of flex joints.

So how do you guys think something like this would work? I have sent a PM to the person who posted this picture on Expedition Portal but havent recived a reply yet....but as far as angle's go what do ya'll think?

100_3204%20(Medium).jpg
 
looks like my lowers are the same as that dudes. but my upper is higher up and further back.

all my measurements plugged into a link calculator say my setup is awesome if thats worth anythingto you. all i know is it works and i like it mroe than my old radius arm longarms.

20250_507037158574_226300669_170408_4168614_n.jpg


20250_507037283324_226300669_170422_4356321_n.jpg


20250_507037288314_226300669_170423_1735794_n.jpg
 
im going to add that I also have my control arm mounts raised on my axle. makes for a better control arm angle, and more ground clearance.

im not sure how feasable it is with stock dana30 bracketry though with the shock mount where it is.
 
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