Lift and SYE questions

I just purchased a '99 which is my first XJ. I am planning on installing a 6.5" lift. I have a couple questions about driveshafts.

Front
Do I need an cv style DS in the front or can i run with the stock one?
Is an SYE required for the front output shaft of the TC?

Rear
Is there any other options besides H-n-T style SYE for the NP242?
What about the DS? I see some posts regarding using an SYE allows
you to use the same DS front and rear. Is that single DS a CV style and does a sinle spare apply to a NP242 TC?

Thanks

front: the stock shaft is a cv style. and there is no slip yoke to eliminate.

so stock is fine

rear: im not too sure about the 242's. never had one

Thanks for the quick reply!

I guess I should go crawl under it and have a look
I was trying to read all the posts on SYE and got confused.

Tom Woods sells an SYE for the 242....and packages it with a CV driveshaft made to order. Depending on the type/size of yokes/flanges and the length, you can make the front/rear interchangable.

When I lifted my '98 XJ to around 5.5" the shop installed a SYE & a new Tom Woods driveshaft. Had bad vibrations before but that combination solved the problem.

I just did a 4.5 lift and I also have a 242. Vibes where horrible when I lifted it. Tom wools kit is like 500 plus a 400 core charge for your main shaft. All the kit is is a reworked main shaft, cut shortened, re-splined and drilled. After searching I decided to do the hack n tap. Very simple and turned out perfect. Got ride of 99% of vibes. I would do I again

rmonte4821,

Which HnT kit did you use? and what did you use for a rear DS?

The Tom Woods SYE is a re-machined 242 output shaft. The late model 242s (96+) have a longer output shaft than the early model 242s. If you are running an early 242 then the H&T is a good option.

I installed the Tom Woods (TW) kit in my 1999 242 case. In my opinion, the TW kit is the only way to go for the late model 242 case. The output shaft is shorter after TW modifies it.

FYI, the Tom Woods machined shaft is a stock shaft that is machined but it is not fair to call it a hack and tap IMHO. The TW shaft is shorter than a do it yourself hack and tap. He machines the splines further up the shaft than the shaft originally came with. That gives you a shorter output shaft which gives you a better angle to the rear end. In addition, the output bearing is closer to the output yoke for better support.



See the attached PIC for comparison

The install is not that difficult. I did it in my garage by myself and left the T case in place. The lift was on and I had plenty of room. Instructions are good but a good set of external snap ring pliers with the flat tips are a MUST. I was slow and did it in 3-4 hours. The most difficult part was installing the back case half holding the case, pump and pump suction tube in place without getting sealant all over myself. Good sealant is highly recommended. I used some stuff I got at Napa and no leaks.

Then when you are done you will have a yoke output instead of a flange output with the H&T.

The TW kits is more expensive because it is more parts and machine work. It also includes a TW CV drive shaft. There is also a $400 core charge on your original 242 output shaft. Once he checks your output shaft and it is not bent you will get a credit of $400 back from TW.

You can send in your main shaft and speedometer housing first to avoid the core charge if you want, just be sure to include your contact info with the parts. I called them up to make sure and am going to do mine in a few weeks once I clear some days off of work for vacation during the down time.

The kit is about the same price as the one I got from him for my YJ/231 a few years back, but since Chrysler stopped making the 242 the parts have become extremely rare, hence the steep core. I know everyone loves to do stuff on the cheap but when it comes to the 242, TW is really the best option in the long run.

WebDog / Dirtbound offroad have a H&T kit for 110$ + free ship til end of the month.

Ordered mine from Iron Rock. Was 199.00 With the yoke and refurb front shaft, and I ordered the correct tap and drill bits. I have some good bits but these where bannanas. Once I figured the length and cut the shaft no joke I took about about a min to drill the pilot hole to the correct depth, they cut like butter

U can use rear drive shaft from Grand WJ with lenght compresion - no SYE needed. Simple modyfication

dvjcodec said:

U can use rear drive shaft from Grand WJ with lenght compresion - no SYE needed. Simple modyfication

Click to expand...

Any more info on this? Has anyone else had experience with this? It seems like more people would be going this route if it was true!