73 Ford F250 Ranger XLT Camper Special w/Six Pac 8' Std camper

Just bought this, pretty happy so far.
Specs on the truck:
390 w/mild RV cam and recent rebuild
C6 auto with manual valvebody and recent rebuild
2wd
Stock except for noted items.

The camper looks to be a 90 or 91 Six Pac 8' Std. It's in reasonable shape. Needs some sealing done on the roof, need to find a table and bed for the dinette. Sink works as does the stove and A/C. They also included a chem toilet.

I'll be putting in some work on this setup over the coming months/years and will try to remember to keep this updated. Right now, I need a wiper arm for the driver's side wiper and jacks to get the camper out of the truck bed. I'm also going to be looking for a new tailgate and rear bumper. The PO lost the tailgate and crumpled the bumper, along with a dent in the passenger bed side and door. Those I'll try and pop out myself, but the bumper probably isn't straightenable. I do however already have a possible line on a bumper and tailgate through Ryno. I'll get pics up once it gets light out again.

Eventually, I want new wheels, either 16 or 17 to replace the 16.5s, and want to put some work into the 390, boost some more power out of it.

Pics:

to help out the 390, research power improvements for "FE" block Fords (352,360,390,410,427, & 428cid-- don't think I missed any....)

It was the mainstay of Ford performance for a decade and there's enough poop out there to make a 390 anything you want.

looks like a newer version of Rocinante(sp). Steinbeck's rig from "Travels with Charley".

Looks like a good, honest truck to me!

My main focus at first will be fixing the dents (cheap/free), getting a more available wheel size, sealing the camper up, and fixing the little things (needs a new wiper arm, new bumper, tailgate, seat upholstery - although I also want the cushion redone to take some of the thickness out, camper jacks to get the camper out, drivers mirror always turns in so I can't see), then I'll start going through the engine, find things that need fixing, and replace with better parts as available. Maybe, bore it out to the size of a 427...

i had that same truck and it was awesome well i mean it wasnt that truck but one just like it they are die hard workers and heavy duty as hell

Darky said:

....then I'll start going through the engine, find things that need fixing, and replace with better parts as available. Maybe, bore it out to the size of a 427...

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427's were higher RPM (relatively speaking) H.P. engines-- were I using an FE motor in a truck, I'd look to replicate a 428 passenger car design and a good "RV grind" camshaft. In a trunk, you'll never see the RPM required to get the benefits of any of the performance heads or cams.

Those are some good looking pics.

nice truck... i have a 72.... when you start crackin in to her make sure you check the drip rail around the roof... common rust out area!!!

91blackbox said:

nice truck... i have a 72.... when you start crackin in to her make sure you check the drip rail around the roof... common rust out area!!!

Click to expand...

Makes sense, I'll check those out.

That truck is so much win. I love the combo.

So, I've been told the carbs tended to cause issue at times with these. And that it may be causing some of the drivability issues I'm seeing (stumbles on occasion, idles rough, stalls randomly at low rpm - usually when cold, lack of vacuum) and am looking at Edelbrock carbs. I was expecting to spend around $500 or so. But they've got two deals in the $200 range for carbs that should fit. My question is: will they fit? And would it be worthwhile as a possible fix for the drivability problems? One I forgot to mention, when the vacuum issues come up, they're accompanied by a complete lack of power. Once driving down a flat road with a slight head wind, I couldn't get it over 45 mph...

http://store.edelbrock.com/9906.aspx

http://store.edelbrock.com/9913reconditionedperformerseriescarburetor750cfmelectricchoke.aspx

Also, pretty sure the sellers were a couple of dirty liars. I am doubting the presence of an RV cam. It idles like my old Nissan with a compression leak. I'm doubting the manual valvebody as it shifts like a regular automatic. I put it in D and away I go; it shifts twice, once into 2nd and once into 3rd. And because of these two doubts, I'm doubting the recent rebuild of the engine and trans. The engine doesn't run like a rebuild and if they lied on the other stuff, they are likely lying on this...

is a nice looking combo though. a little work and it would be a nice hauler to the desert. can do a compression check and see if the rings and valves are holding strong if not id say not a fresh build. a engine of that age with no build would have some loss of compression

I had a Ford Camper Special back in 1970. It had the ?60 engine. Cant remember if it was a 360 or 460. Damn its been 41 years ago. It was a torque monster but not good over 65 mph.

I've been looking for an older pickup for a tow rig. The first thing I am gong to do is to put fuel injection on it. Even a throttle body runs rings around a carb.

Heh, an RV cam won't even change the idle, so there really is no telling w/o busting it apart.

If the power drops off above 3k it has the RV cam.

those FE motors are quite nice actually. the first V8 i ever rebuilt was a 390 from my 69 F250 camper special. high school project of the engine and C6. like mentioned a mild RV cam really does wonders on them. dont go crazy, and stick with just a rebuild of that 390. plenty of power. the main concern is the timing chain. i cant remember what year ford started it, but they put in a heavily retarded timing set to comply with emission controls. chevy did the rediculous smog pump, while ford did the timing set. this too may be were your power loss is coming from. if you dont want to pull the engine and take stuff apart, you can possibly tell a stretched chain by turning the crank back and forth a little by hand (via socket and breaker bar) and watch the rotor in the distributor. if you can, i would take a valve cover off and do the same but watch the rocker arms to see how much you have to turn the crank to make the rocker move again. hope this makes sense. as for the carb, yes those are somewhat tempramental but a good carb none the less. i have had great luck with those edelbrocks. i think the 600 would be plenty for your needs, but if you feel you need it, the 750 wouldnt hurt anything but fuel economy. if your budget allows, i would recommend hitting up the long beach swap, or even the pomona swap and picking up an edelbrock performer intake for it. you can get those cheap as the FE motors arent what most people want, to make power. the aluminum intake will help with cooling the fuel and help from getting vapor lock on those hot days.
if it is in your budget, get the new carb. it will only ensure a much better running engine and save fuel. if that doesnt remedy the power loss, then check the timing chain. which you should do no matter what. when you are ready to replace the timing set, research the net and find what year you need before the emissions deal. an earlier set will make a huge differance. lastly, the distributor gear pins are weak and they shear. causing the gear to turn on the shaft a bit. this is more common on higher performance fords, but still something to check when you have it out. all this is of course after you have gone through the basics of new plugs, wires, rotor, cap, fuel filter, checking fuel lines for cracks, and an all around basic tune. after your power loss, have you pulled the plugs and see what they look like?