Tally_XJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Tallahassee, Florida
Advanced Warning!!
While this is a fairly basic modification there are still some things that will require more advanced knowledge and tools. There are ways to complete this that I have not included in this writeup because I cannot document them as I did not go that route.
This modification requires you to cut off your factory anti-sway bar mounts from the front axle or modify them. They will interfere with the new tie rods and ends and must be cut off or modified.
You will also have to remove the factory steering stabilizer mount and remount it differently or rebuild it. It will also interfere with the tie rods and ends. The interference from both of these mounts will keep the steering from traveling lock to lock.
If you want to run the front anti-sway bar and steering stabilizer, you will have to cut metal and fab up and weld on new mounts.
Once the inserts are inserted into the knuckle, the thickness changes and the tie rod end taper shaft will no longer go through the knuckle far enough to get a castle nut and cotter pin installed. You will have to use a cutoff wheel and cut about 1/8" from the bottom of the knuckle in order to reduce overall thickness of the knuckle or tighten the castle nuts very tight and install a very thin cotter pin.
This modification will also likely not work with factory 15" wheels. It may work with 15" aftermarket wheels with enough backspacing to allow clearance of the tie rod ends. My ZJ Cherokee has 16" Rubicon wheels and there is not even enough clearance to fit a grease gun nozzle onto the tie rod end grease zerk with the wheels mounted on the Jeep.
While this is a fairly basic modification there are still some things that will require more advanced knowledge and tools. There are ways to complete this that I have not included in this writeup because I cannot document them as I did not go that route.
This modification requires you to cut off your factory anti-sway bar mounts from the front axle or modify them. They will interfere with the new tie rods and ends and must be cut off or modified.
You will also have to remove the factory steering stabilizer mount and remount it differently or rebuild it. It will also interfere with the tie rods and ends. The interference from both of these mounts will keep the steering from traveling lock to lock.
If you want to run the front anti-sway bar and steering stabilizer, you will have to cut metal and fab up and weld on new mounts.
Once the inserts are inserted into the knuckle, the thickness changes and the tie rod end taper shaft will no longer go through the knuckle far enough to get a castle nut and cotter pin installed. You will have to use a cutoff wheel and cut about 1/8" from the bottom of the knuckle in order to reduce overall thickness of the knuckle or tighten the castle nuts very tight and install a very thin cotter pin.
This modification will also likely not work with factory 15" wheels. It may work with 15" aftermarket wheels with enough backspacing to allow clearance of the tie rod ends. My ZJ Cherokee has 16" Rubicon wheels and there is not even enough clearance to fit a grease gun nozzle onto the tie rod end grease zerk with the wheels mounted on the Jeep.
Last edited: