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Build a D44/9" combo or a D60/D60 combo?

bmyohn

bmyohn

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Lake Orion, MI
This summer I am planning on swaping my D30 and Ford 8.8 out for a set of full width axles. But I am starting to wonder if I should build a set of D60s over a D44/9". After talking to a few junkyards around here, I can get a front Dana 60 for anywhere from $200 to $600 (if they get in a 78 - 91.5 F350). And I am fairly certain a rear D60 can be had for under $250 as well. So would you all recommend building a the D60s or going with the D44/9" (I can have a buddy who will give me a D44 and 9" out of a 79 Bronco for $350). I've already wasted money building a Dana 30 that I strip teeth of the ring and pinion pretty easily. I'd rather build a set of axles that I can wheel on 37s locked and not have to worry like I do with the D30 now.

Either way the plan is to run 5.38s and most likely full spools. Keep in mind I am running a 4.6L stroker as well.

What is you recommendation?
 
if your even debating it i would go with the 60 combo
 
$350.00 for that D44/9" isn't that great of a deal really. I paid 400.00 for my 79' front with 4.88 gears, a detroit, and 1/4" Wall OTK DOM steering already done, plus that axle has cast wedges like mine, not usually very sought after.. i'm into the 9" about 400 as well. Thats with gears, a spool, install kit, and the axle itself. I've broken 3 front shafts on 37's in about six months. I have a pretty heavy foot.

The D60's would definitely cost more money, mainly because you're going to have to fork out a lot for the front 60. If you had the money i'd go 60's.
 
This debate has been done probably a thousand times now and the supporters for each side are always "right" with no sway to the other.

That being said, with 37s as the plan do the D60 front. Putting money into something that might get changed later is not a wise choice (as it looks like you found out). Done right the D60 can be built for little more than a D44.

The rear D60 can be a waste. Most are undesirable and will require some work to get them up to par. If you can get it for free and have more time than money (like me) it could be worth it, but paying anything more than $50 would be a rip off. Granted there are some desireable ones (like the D60-ISU out of the '99-'04 E350s) that have the larger bore spindles for the 35-spline shafts and disc brakes already, but those are obviously not the most common.
 
RCman said:
This debate has been done probably a thousand times now and the supporters for each side are always "right" with no sway to the other.

That being said, with 37s as the plan do the D60 front. Putting money into something that might get changed later is not a wise choice (as it looks like you found out). Done right the D60 can be built for little more than a D44.

The rear D60 can be a waste. Most are undesirable and will require some work to get them up to par. If you can get it for free and have more time than money (like me) it could be worth it, but paying anything more than $50 would be a rip off. Granted there are some desireable ones (like the D60-ISU out of the '99-'04 E350s) that have the larger bore spindles for the 35-spline shafts and disc brakes already, but those are obviously not the most common.
Click to expand...
whats with the hate for 92-98 e350 60's? you hatin my big ol drums



to the op also look out for a e250 rear, c clip axle but comes with 35 spline shafts aloready, buggest issue is only lockers are lincon or arb as for frt 60 buying it is the cheapest part, fancy knuckles hi steer and alloy shafts add up quick
 
If you're staying with 37s, get a D60-ISU out of an E-250.

Not sure what year they went to discs (might have been '99 like the E350, but could have been earlier).

Factory 35-spline shafts (c-clipped but good luck breaking a shaft).

E350s have 32-spline shafts, but big bore spindles as RCMan said that can accept a 35-spline shaft no problem. Both have twin piston calipers if you get the disc brake version, as well as a flange instead of a yoke.

I can also confirm that the E350s also have 3.5" OD tubes (same as a D70).
 
14 bolt rear, cheap, plentiful, bomb proof. Shave the bottom like Ho's and call it good.
 
ROBZ95Xj said:
whats with the hate for 92-98 e350 60's? you hatin my big ol drums
Click to expand...
Nothing. Just the added cost of swapping over to discs, but if you factor that from the start it might work out to the best.

There are plenty of options for rear axles my only point was don't jump on the 1st one labeled "D60" or the buyer could be in for a lot of unexpected work.

87manche said:
14 bolt rear, cheap, plentiful, bomb proof. Shave the bottom like Ho's and call it good.
Click to expand...
:rolleyes: Here comes the wagon!

Now in no way is the 14b a bad axle, but there are many others that can/will get you similar strength with a little bit of work with more of the benefits (like higher clearance). They are not bomb proof, no axle is.
If one has the time to invest in shaving it and doing it right then it will be a good choice. For example foxwar71's 14b shave isn't exactly a quick fix for the only 1/2" he gained over my D60 rear axle that I did nothing but spend 10min with a grinder on (3.875" vs 3.375" tube to lowest point on center section). Is it a great option? Yes without any doubt. But many, including myself, don't see the need when there are so many other choices.
 
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:rolleyes:


Rockwells or STFU :D




14b's are wicked cool!!! 14b/rock hybrids make me horny. A matched set of late 80's F350 axles will get you a nice HP60 for the front and a Sterling 10.25 rear, its a strong puppy too. Add gears, throw welder at it, throw some brackets at it, run it.
 
D-60's and be done.

I have a lead on a set of 04 Excursion axles complete wheel-wheel, (D-60/10.5 sterling) for about the same price as the 60's you are looking at
 
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Go 60 or go home.

Too cheap to buy poor.

Make sure its a kingpin d60, those are the strongest. (up to 91 on one ton dually axles).

In my mind anything less than 1k for a front D60 is a good deal.

You can build it initally as cheap or an expensive as you want. Hell if money is no option, rockjock center section, DOM tubes, Ried inner C's and knuckles, Detroit, superior shafts, ctm joints, warn 35 spline outer drive flanges...

Or, I bought my 60, put a Detroit in it and wheel it. With 39 krawlers I have broke an outer 30 spline warn hub and outer shaft, everything else is stock for now.

Just watch out for the D61 on the rear axle...I built an Eaton...no issues in four plus years...its a monster...

No way I would build a d44/9...

mac 'its all about the 60s' gyvr
 
Another vote for 60's here I too am running the D60-ISU from a 2000 e250 which is disc. I paid $500 for my front and $100 for the rear found both on craigslist.
 
What about axles out of a 76 F350 Flat Dump Truck? Good donor axles if gotten for cheap?
 
I vote 60s. especially if you want to run 37s and spools and not break. The 9 inch is a good option, but its also only 31 spline from the factory. meaning you would have to throw some bigger shafts into it. I would find some 35 spline 60s are run with that. plenty beef for what you want and you will have a fun time trying to break them
 
X1994J said:
$350.00 for that D44/9" isn't that great of a deal really. I paid 400.00 for my 79' front with 4.88 gears, a detroit, and 1/4" Wall OTK DOM steering already done, plus that axle has cast wedges like mine, not usually very sought after.. i'm into the 9" about 400 as well. Thats with gears, a spool, install kit, and the axle itself. I've broken 3 front shafts on 37's in about six months. I have a pretty heavy foot.

The D60's would definitely cost more money, mainly because you're going to have to fork out a lot for the front 60. If you had the money i'd go 60's.
Click to expand...


I love this kind of post. If you don't get a screaming stupid deal on a Jeep part you're paying too much money. :rolleyes:

Getting a great deal is a very good thing, but every guy can't duplicate everyone else's great deal. Sometimes simply getting what you want for a fair price is a good deal.



To the OP, D44's need chrom shafts and chromo u-joints or it's no better than a D30. Full float D60's are 30 spline and a waste of time and weight. To get decent axles that won't break you need to spend a few bucks, even if you start with junkyard axles. The 9" rear will need 35 spline locker and axles, as will the D60. A stock D60 or 14 bolt rear (especially the 14 bolt) will have lousy ground clearance and the 9" has the lowest pinion of any axle. A stock front 60 is a good axle, but it comes with 30 spline stub axles that should be upgraded to 35 spline which will require new 35 spline lock outs or drive flanges.

Research, like you're doing, and figure out your budget. The good stuff isn't cheap. Let a guy with junkyard full width front 60 and rear 14 bolt follow those of us who have nice custom 60's front and rear and he'll have loads of trouble with the extra width and the lack of ground clearance. You can get by cheap, but the good stuff costs something.
 
HP D60's front and rear. now your talking.
 
Goatman said:
I love this kind of post. If you don't get a screaming stupid deal on a Jeep part you're paying too much money. :rolleyes:

Getting a great deal is a very good thing, but every guy can't duplicate everyone else's great deal. Sometimes simply getting what you want for a fair price is a good deal.



To the OP, D44's need chrom shafts and chromo u-joints or it's no better than a D30. Full float D60's are 30 spline and a waste of time and weight. To get decent axles that won't break you need to spend a few bucks, even if you start with junkyard axles. The 9" rear will need 35 spline locker and axles, as will the D60. A stock D60 or 14 bolt rear (especially the 14 bolt) will have lousy ground clearance and the 9" has the lowest pinion of any axle. A stock front 60 is a good axle, but it comes with 30 spline stub axles that should be upgraded to 35 spline which will require new 35 spline lock outs or drive flanges.

Research, like you're doing, and figure out your budget. The good stuff isn't cheap. Let a guy with junkyard full width front 60 and rear 14 bolt follow those of us who have nice custom 60's front and rear and he'll have loads of trouble with the extra width and the lack of ground clearance. You can get by cheap, but the good stuff costs something.
Click to expand...

Just out of curiousity, how do you feel about FF vs SF when talking ~40" tires?

I went for a full float D60 (E350, 35-spline chromos, ARB) but curious if a SF would survive the same abuse?

I guess the only difference is in the wheel bearings. E250/350s looked to have the same brake size/setup.
 
MoparManiac said:
Just out of curiousity, how do you feel about FF vs SF when talking ~40" tires?

I went for a full float D60 (E350, 35-spline chromos, ARB) but curious if a SF would survive the same abuse?

I guess the only difference is in the wheel bearings. E250/350s looked to have the same brake size/setup.
Click to expand...


Well, full float will always be stronger then semi-float. The basics, as you know, is that the FF shaft isn't carrying any weight load. In the real world, the semi-float axle flange can break off, which happened to us in the Rausch Creek KOH qualifier last May, and I've seen it other times. We switched to a full float axle.

You also can't get chromo shafts (at least most axle builders won't do it) for a semi-float, they do 1541 alloy, which is strong but not as strong as 4340 chromo. The chromo is too hard and increases the risk of the flange breaking off.
 
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