Luk Gold clutch vs their OEM replacement: what's the difference?

I've browsed around recently for a replacement clutch and the name that seems to come up fairly often is the Luk brand. I really don't think the ol XJ warrants a Kevlar or ceramic clutch disk but having said that, what makes the "Gold" series Luk clutch so much "better"; or at least what's different that warrants the $100 some odd dollar increase. Clutch disk thickness? Material? Pressure force?

Mine is a 97' so it has the external slave. Anybody have any incite into why one is better than the other? OR better yet, experience to direct me else where?

These guys seem to have a pretty decent deal on them

http://www.carolinaclutch.com/ShowItem/105357 Jeep Stock Replacement Clutch Kit.aspx

That seems like a decent price(think I've seen $300+). I have only heard good things about Luk. Usually higher models have pressure plates with a higher clamping force and/or a higher quality clutch material.

I don't know personally, but I'll be keeping an eye on this thread to see what answers you get. I imagine that its much higher quality clutch material for better longevity. I know I'd be willing to spend extra on a clutch that'll be able to live up to the abuse I plan on putting mine through on the trails (until I can afford a 4 to 1). Honestly, I'm afraid I'll find out just how much life is left in the clutch on my jeep... at the wrong time!

247,000 on my original clutch leaves me believing the OEM clutch is how I'll proceed when the time comes. I'm not sure who made it for ChryCo in '94, but I hope they're still supplying the replacements

Really? Thats pretty good. That freeway miles or lots of climbing? I had a clutch blow up at around 120k mi on my old S10 back in the day. LOL Was bein stupid in a parking lot w/ some friends, smokin the tires, held the brakes a bit too hard and smoked the clutch instead! Then on a toyota pick up I had picked up off a coworker, had ~ 220k freeway miles, had to replace the clutch in that... Not an offroad toy tho, what so ever.

I plan on gearing my jeep real low, but until I can afford to do so I plan on making up for my lack of gears with some footwork on the clutch.

DezertTitan said:

I don't know personally, but I'll be keeping an eye on this thread to see what answers you get. I imagine that its much higher quality clutch material for better longevity. I know I'd be willing to spend extra on a clutch that'll be able to live up to the abuse I plan on putting mine through on the trails (until I can afford a 4 to 1). Honestly, I'm afraid I'll find out just how much life is left in the clutch on my jeep... at the wrong time!

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Be prepared :firedevil mine seemed fine then out of no where catastrophic failure..

Just went thru a clutch issue on my 2000 NV3550 Sport. 218k, mostly road miles.

Started with replacing the master/slave, still had the shifting issue of not being able to shift. Lower gears were the worst.

Removed the xfer, dropped the bell/tranny as a single unit. Found that the pressure plate fingers mostly GONE in the center. Also the throwout bearing was shot, but still there.

Just did a Sachs replacement parts from the local autopart store. Complete clutch set and flywheel. About $230 OTD. With 218k miles and still meat on the clutch, I was not too worried about the life of it. Price and availability local to insure correct parts (w/lifetime warranty) was a bigger determining factor.

Other then the weight of the bell/tranny, I used a tranny jack, it was not that bad of a task. I did this myself in about 2 (cold) slow days. It would of been faster if I had help.

gradon said:

That seems like a decent price(think I've seen $300+). I have only heard good things about Luk. Usually higher models have pressure plates with a higher clamping force and/or a higher quality clutch material.

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If you find anything stating/illustrate that please forward it on. that's the problem with big companies like these, you can only speak with a distributor. Everything I can find on the damn things are a cut-n-paste from Luk's sales pitch. I went to their website and that was even less helpful. I found sh*t like, "this is a clutch, we make clutches, they look like this... now enter your zip for a distributor by you!" :twak:

Shorty said:

247,000 on my original clutch leaves me believing the OEM clutch is how I'll proceed when the time comes. I'm not sure who made it for ChryCo in '94, but I hope they're still supplying the replacements

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See but that's the problem. How do ya even know?

LSkrabut said:

Just went thru a clutch issue on my 2000 NV3550 Sport. 218k, mostly road miles.Started with replacing the master/slave, still had the shifting issue of not being able to shift. Lower gears were the worst.Removed the xfer, dropped the bell/tranny as a single unit. Found that the pressure plate fingers mostly GONE in the center. Also the throwout bearing was shot, but still there. Just did a Sachs replacement parts from the local autopart store. Complete clutch set and flywheel. About $230 OTD. With 218k miles and still meat on the clutch, I was not too worried about the life of it. Price and availability local to insure correct parts (w/lifetime warranty) was a bigger determining factor.Other then the weight of the bell/tranny, I used a tranny jack, it was not that bad of a task. I did this myself in about 2 (cold) slow days. It would of been faster if I had help.

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Oh I'm not worried about the work. I have got to take my transmission down. You might have missed the thread but I've got a third gear syncro that gave up on life; this whole skippin third sh*t is getting really old. Plus it gives me an excuse to tap the output shaft on the mill. I'm going to drill out the yoke and bolt that sucker on there, swap a front shaft on with new spicer u-joints and change over to u-bolts. Why not change the clutch too? I'll have a few days while the transmission is out so I'll see if I can't tell what I've got in there now. My truck has 120k on it and I'm wondering if it might be the original... Still bites good but ya know, who knows...

That's what started me on this whole clutch search.

When my shit blows, I'll be getting a Centerforce clutch. Good things are heard in the tuner world about them I have one for my other car but have yet to install. They use organic discs.

Centerforce clutches use weights to increase clamp force that depend on centrifugal force, hence they work better at high RPMs. IIRC, the clutch I put in my 94 the better part of 10 years ago was a Luk and I'm happy with it.

I have been running a Centerforce DF2 for many years--I transfered it from my 94 to my 96 and now behind the 4.6. I'd say it has 60-75K on it now and still works great. I have read of a few complaints from other people that used Centerforce clutches, but wasn't convinced it wasn't issues with flywheel, installation, master/slave cylinders, bleeding, transmission, pedal linkage, instead of the bad one that made it through tech.

From what I found, LUK made the factory clutch for the XJ's. When I replaced the clutch in my "92 I installed a LUK GOLD. The most noticable difference for me is that it has a very small engagement/dis-engagement window. It's harder to feather the clutch and hold the Jeep with it than a stock clutch.

^ see now that's something useful. I'd rather not make it a quicker engagement. I mean I love that on a car but I couldn't imagine wheeling with a clutch any quicker catching than mine already is.

Thanks for that one.