Need a little help please...

I’m just about to replace my first u-joint on my 96 XJ. There’s now a fairly bad thumping at twice the rate of wheel rotation coming from somewhere in the front left suspension / drive assembly. Looking at it you can tell the u-joint is toast with rust dust between the cap and the body. I’m almost positive that’s where all the sound is coming from.

So, once this gets underway I want to try to get it done asap, so I’ve got a couple more questions before I fire everything up.


1) Where if anywhere can I go to rent an impact wrench?

2) Can anyone confirm that the hub nuts on my trucks Dana 30 axle is either 34mm or 36mm? I’ve been told both.

3) Are there any things I should be replacing as I work my way into the u-joints? Like the axle shaft oil seals or maybe other gaskets or something?

Thanks for the help

1) Any auto parts shop with a rental program. Me, I've never used an impact wrench to get to the u-joints on my 94.

2) 36mm.

3) Check your hubs. Replace them if they've got slop, turn hard, or feel "grainy" when turned.

You might have better luck if you hose down the assembly with a rust penetrant for a day or so before you tackle this (keep it away from your brake pads.) You also want to use anti-seize liberally on the hub mating surfaces, that'll make the next disassembly much easier.

There are quite a few posts here on how to get the hub to pop free. If this is the first time that this hub has been out, it'll be rusted in place pretty well.

I thought he was asking about a drive shaft u-joint, till I read 35 MM?

I would suggest jacking it up and testing, shack, wiggle and rotate parts in neutral, to see where and what is loose first, Could be a drive shaft u-joint? Could even be a bad tire, or brakes? I have had that sound turn out to be loose lug nuts on a the tire even.

A NEW METHOD ???

I've gotten advice that I can get the joint out without actually having to undo that 36mm nut. Guy says just remove tire, caliper, rotor, the 3 13mm 12-pt bolts from the rear then pull the axle. Honestly, if I can do this way I'd rather b/c I don't like the idea of someone standing on my brakes for resistance.

So everybody, can it really be done this way? I don't want to be pounding on something to come off when I still needed to break loose that 36mm.

Thanks

You can take the hub out with the axle shaft. It would be easier to actually replace the u-joint without it attached IMO. I have jammed a larger size screwdriver in the rotor vanes and used the caliper as a stop when loosening the hub nut, a breakerbar and length of 2" pipe comes in handy too cuz that nut should be on really tight. Also, I find it real easy to just hammer out the old u joints, no need to press them. A few sold beats on the yoke right next to the caps and they just back right out. antiseize applied in abundance on reassembly makes the job real easy next time. good luck!

I don't take the hub nut off when doing the front axle u-joints on my 96, waste of time in my opinion unless you need to replace the unit bearing. It you are going to be using one of those big c-clamp looking U-joint remover tools (even like a harbor freight or something) it will be a piece of cake - no need for any hammering or force - and they are fairly cheap. With all the u-joints in the XJ, you WILL use it more than once.

ABSOLUTELY use the trick to pop the hub/axle out of the knuckle using the short ratchet extension and the steering. It works like a charm and slides out smooth.

You don't need an impact for this job. Ratchet and sockets only (12 point for the hub mounting bolts) are required plus a flathead screwdriver and hammer to pop the inner clips off the u-joint caps. My ratchet is 1/2" drive, but if you only have a 3/8 it would probably do.

If the 3 bolts holding the hub on the knuckle give you trouble, you could use an extension bar on the ratchet handle to break them loose. They should be fairly easy.

Don't forget to torque everything back up to spec when you're done.

IF you decide to remove the 36mm axle nut (does make changing the axle u-joint easier), I would crack it loose with the tire/wheel still on and resting on the ground. Those can be a bugger (without an impact wrench), and keeping them in place with brakes or something jammed into the rotor may not work or may do more damage. Been there, done that!

I've in the middle here and dong fairly well so far. Everythings off including the large 36 mm nut and the three 13mm 12pt bolts from the rear. I've been soaking everything down with PB really well since yesterday and I've begun to pound on the next part to get it off, but I thought I should ask some advice here since I've been pounding fairly hard and nothing is giving way yet.

Below is a pic of where I'm at now. As I've not had any of this apart before I'm sort of just feeling my way around here. Where I've drawn the red line is where I think the pieces should separate, and where I've drawn the green lines is where I've been pounding with my BFH, from the back side, although nothings budged so far.

My concern is that when I'm pounding it's shaking the entire suspension system and everything, and not coming off, which makes me think I've missed a bolt or something. Looking at my pics can anybody confirm that I just need to keep soaking at the red line with PB and pounding with my BFH?

I've got a kind of pry bar I could stick where the red line is. Should I try to pound the pry bar in a little and then pry the pieces apart?

Thanks

That hub is rusted as shit. Put a short socket extension or bolt in between the ear of the axle shaft and the knuckle. Start the engine and have a helper turn the wheel while you keep the extension from moving (I use a long big ass flathead)....it will come off. Took me two days to find this trick and did everything in between to try and get it off.

Took two minutes with the extension and it was done.

Would a metal chisel to clean that rust off at the joint help first?

Of the various replies that told you to look up the trick with the ratchet extension to pop the hub out, I believe mine was one. You will not need to pound, pry, chisel, cut, or PB blast. It will be a 30 second easy as pie removal of the hub if you search for it as has been suggested.

Ahh crap don't know how I missed that one. I'm afraid I'll be a little handicapped in my reading until I learn all the parts' names. Thanks for taking the time to tell me this again guys. Yall just saved me a ton of work I'm sure.

Yeah I got a ton of rust alright. The 6 twelve sided bolts were unfreakinreal.

More than one person has told me to get new hubs so I might as well. Considering I really don't do much off-roading what hubs should I get to replace these? Run of the mill at AutoZone will do, or should I look for a specific brand? Like when I replaced my front track bar I went with a Moog. I'd like to do something similar in quality with my hubs.

Thanks

For hubs, Timken is a good manufacturer. rockauto.com has at a good price. pretty sure your year XJ uses the composite rotor, so make sure you get the right type hub!

When you checked for play with the wheel was there movement that there shouldn't be? Does it feel rough when it turns? (they are always a bit stiff feeling without the wheel on, that's normal)

There is no reason to replace it just because it is older and rusty if it is still doing it's job. They can last a looooong time, especially with mainly on-the-street driving.