Bastard pack builders, too much lift, have a question...

I built a S-10 bastard pack, and netted 4.5-5in of lift. I have the XJ main - s-10 main - s-10 second - s-10 overload.

My question is if i were to take out the S-10 second, am I suppsed to replace it with the XJ 2nd or do I just leave it out.

I am afraid of driveline issues in my '95, and also i put IRO 3in lift springs up front (netted 3.5-4in)

Thanks

I used a new q-tec HD pack and a stock pack and just kept adding and subtracting leaves until I got the height I wanted.
Its a bit stiff, but I dont have a sway bar and I tow frequently so it works very well for my needs.
I know I used both mains, and kept the leaf sizes in order down the pack.

Basically it's trial and error until you get what you're looking for.

just take out the overload, the xj main, s10 main and s10 second should give you around 3.5 inches of lift depending on your shackle.

XGarfX said:

just take out the overload, the xj main, s10 main and s10 second should give you around 3.5 inches of lift depending on your shackle.

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Does the overload even add lift? I thought that was only to prevent the back from sagging down to far (i.e. it does nothing until the springs flex beyond a certain point).

It adds lift because of its thickness. Its like 3/4" thick.

XGarfX said:

just take out the overload, the xj main, s10 main and s10 second should give you around 3.5 inches of lift depending on your shackle.

Click to expand...

don't i need it in-case...well...the springs get overloaded? Doesn't it protect them?

I took it out for a drive and sure enough there were issues. Under braking there was some crazy popping, and this was at 10mph to 0 easy braking. I get under ther to take a look:

Drive line looks steep:



Upon closer inspection:


Yup, you can see the white area where it was popping:


I think it looks good, but i either needs to be lowered, or i need to drop the transfer case.

drop the t case

Now my questions:

Is there an easy way to measure the height of the spring back before i bolt everything back up? I was thinking of lifting the axle (with jack) while the original spring pack is in there, take measurement, the put the different leaves in and do the same thing. Nothing would actually be bolted up

how much would i have to drop the transfer case? How much would i have to lower the suspension?

robhurlburt said:

Now my questions:

Is there an easy way to measure the height of the spring back before i bolt everything back up? I was thinking of lifting the axle (with jack) while the original spring pack is in there, take measurement, the put the different leaves in and do the same thing. Nothing would actually be bolted up

how much would i have to drop the transfer case? How much would i have to lower the suspension?

Click to expand...

You'll need the weight of the vehilce on it to see how much the new pack compresses.

removing the overload will take it down like .75-1" because of its thickness. If it doesnt ride like a dumptruck i would remove that one, i have a bastard pack with an extended shackle. My setup goes xj main, dakota main, dak 2nd, and my old long aal from my original lift, plus my extended shackle. I have just around 4.5-5 inches of lift. I can't get my leafs to actually invert themselves no matter how hard the tires are stuffed, they just get to a certain point and then stop upward movement on their own. I'm ok with it as long as they get to flat and stop thats not gona kill them.

I run my original bumpstops and have cut and folded my rear fenders, run 33s and have zero rubbing issues in the rear. I run a RE hack and tap and a xj front shaft with 4 degree shims, my pinion angle is perfect and i have no vibes. Removing an overload on your setup wont kill your leafs from inverting to far, most aftermarket lift packs are stiff enough that it is very hard to invert them and if you do you should have extended bumpstops. Overload leafs have their job in rigs that do heavy load hauling and heavy towing, in an offroad rig if your over flexing you leafs just run extended stops at your desiered length. Again i really doubt you will be able to invert those leafs far enough to over flex in any situation.

I'd also reconsider that tc drop idea and go for a hack n tap and xj front shaft, i got my setup done for under 200, IRO sells a kit with a completely refurbished shaft for 199 i wish they had that setup when i did mine a few years ago. If you do a tc drop only keep it temporary, no point in lifting if your gona lower the center most part of your rig might as well of just left it lower lol, i ran one a while ago and it caused more problems than it was worth and i regret ever installing it.

RenegadeT said:

You'll need the weight of the vehilce on it to see how much the new pack compresses.

Click to expand...

thats what i hope to accomplish by lifting the vehicle up with the jack. i'll just have to try it.

XGarfX said:

If you do a tc drop only keep it temporary, no point in lifting if your gona lower the center most part of your rig might as well of just left it lower lol, i ran one a while ago and it caused more problems than it was worth and i regret ever installing it.

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thanks for the info. your right about the TC drop, thats why i am thinking of fixing the bastard pack. i don't want to go to low in the rear, i hate the look of rides with reverse rake. i almost feel like i got TOO much lift out of the front IRO coil springs, i wish it was closer to the claimed 3in.

I netted about the same lift with XJ main, S10 main, S10 2nd, and RE boomerang shackels. I dropped my TC 3/4" and used angle shims on the rear axle with no driveline issues at all.

robhurlburt said:

thats what i hope to accomplish by lifting the vehicle up with the jack. i'll just have to try it.

Click to expand...

You can, I jacked up just the leafs with a 2x4 between the bottom of the leaf and the floor jack, just until my jackstand creaked that it was unloading. Use a 2x4 so it grabs the center pin and can't slide off.

As to your driveline, you might try just relieving the yokes a touch so you don't have the rubbing, but your slip yoke it out a ways, so I'd say you're really looking at having that one retubed, or going SYE. T case drop will help a touch, but you're not going to get the 1" you need at the slip yoke back by droping the case an inch.

Looks like you need to shim the rear axle to point it up at the t-case. I'd also look into an SYE. HD or SYE would be fine either way.

robhurlburt said:

don't i need it in-case...well...the springs get overloaded? Doesn't it protect them?

I took it out for a drive and sure enough there were issues. Under braking there was some crazy popping, and this was at 10mph to 0 easy braking. I get under ther to take a look:

Drive line looks steep:

Upon closer inspection:

Yup, you can see the white area where it was popping:

I think it looks good, but i either needs to be lowered, or i need to drop the transfer case.

Click to expand...

im getting ready to put a 5" lift on my xj but now a little concerned about have the same problems what can i do now to help prevent these problems in the future? and what kind of setup are you running nice jeep btw thats about what i want my jeep to sit like

87manche said:

As to your driveline, you might try just relieving the yokes a touch so you don't have the rubbing, but your slip yoke it out a ways, so I'd say you're really looking at having that one retubed, or going SYE. T case drop will help a touch, but you're not going to get the 1" you need at the slip yoke back by droping the case an inch.

Click to expand...

will this be fixed if i lower it down a bit, or am i still going to have an issue?

I was really shooting for 3-3.5in of lift

it will help out a little bit but not much, the issue will still be there whether you feel the vibes or not. Make a cheap tc drop but run if for no more then a few months at MAX, def look into IRO sye, great price for what you get. The shaft they give you has all new u joints, the slip joint is still good/rebuilt, and the centering ball is replaced if its bad. I went to a junkyard and took an xj front shaft and slapped it in, didnt rebuilt it or anything. It lasted about 15k miles and then i had to replace all the joints I'm actually just replacing the last u joint right now.

To be honest i think your xj looks perfectly level, idk if your gona be happy lowering the rear. With all the tools and stuff when your wheeling your gona load it down more and it will sit lower, if you decide to take a leaf out id suggest just the overload. Removing the overload leaf will let you know exactly how much lift you will come down, probly 3/4 of an inch. Removing a leaf will weaken the load capacity and will lower it an unknown amount of lift. What shackle are you running? if stock mayb then i would suggest getting rid of the overload and a leaf from the pack, then adding an extended shackle to help even it out. Its all trial and error with bastard packs, I've redone mine about 3 or 4 times now and im finally happy for the price it costed it was well worth it. Start with getting rid of the overload and see where that takes you, i think just under an inch will make you happy.

XGarfX said:

it will help out a little bit but not much, the issue will still be there whether you feel the vibes or not. Make a cheap tc drop but run if for no more then a few months at MAX, def look into IRO sye, great price for what you get. The shaft they give you has all new u joints, the slip joint is still good/rebuilt, and the centering ball is replaced if its bad.

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f'n a. All i want to do is add some lift to fit 31s and go out and wheel. the jeep does me no good siting in the road :looney: