Best year for XJ?

Hey guys I love this site and this happens to be my first postparty1:. I dont yet own an XJ but my goal is to own one in about a year when my wife gets out of school. Im on a fact gathering mission:read: until then. As far as what year XJ to buy, I have narrowed it down to 95' or 96' and 98',99'.
For now my first question is, In 96' the (OBD2) on board diagnostics 2, made its debut and I guess alot of people hated it then and still hate it now because it makes it tuffer to swap things out and make other mods without getting the dreaded CEL light. On the other hand if something goes wrong, it makes it easier to plug in a scan tool to retrieve the code and replace the widget that went bad. I would welcome all feedback re: 95'(pre-OBD2) vs. 96'(with OBD2).

IMO I like the 96, its the crossover year so youve got some good new parts and good old parts, plus i like the old body style better.

OBD II is great. I've had one CEL come on and it was
a piece of cake to retrieve the code and replace the part.
(It was a bad camshaft position sensor in the distributor).

By the way, the 96 codes can be read either way, as
OBD I or II. OBD II gives a more precise diagnosis, however.

I agree with your model years, 95-96 or 98-99.
Generally get the newest and lowest mileage, and of
course rust-free if you can find one....

I had an 88 MJ, 92 XJ and now a 96 XJ. The first two were 5 speeds, the current one is an AW4 auto.

I loved them all. I have to say I preferred the stick to the auto, just my personal preference. My 92 ran to over 480,000 miles (780,000 kms here in Canada) and only retired due to rust from the road salt combined with the need for a new clutch and a list of other minor issues that made it more cost effective to replace than repair. Got the '96 for $2,500 in primo shape.

I would say body condition and rust free is the #1 consideration regardless of year barring any other severe issues.

The 96 is excellent and as posted above I also like the pre-97 body style.

i've had a 91,94, and my current 00' XJ's. my vote goes for a 94, no airbags, open cooling system, simpler then new models (in my mind). and body panels are easier to find. i can find anything for my 00' at the local JY's

94-95 for older body and 99 for newer. For early, OBDI essentially less issues. Also, typically could lift more without the need for SYE or t-case drop.
For later, bugs worked out after the crossover. And 99 still had a distributor vs the Coil on plug and HP D30 vs LP D30.

I vote for 1996

I own both a 1995 and a 1996

The 1995 is a nice unit, in great shape ... took nothing to get it road ready. ( front brake pads )

But the 1996 is OBDII and that can be a plus.

Hello all....this is my first post. I just joined yesterday......but I have always used this site for many answers to my few problems I have had with my xj....I have owned two an 87 amc and my 93 still going stong today with 193,000 + miles....3inch rough country, 31s, 9500lbs ramsey winch, and a snorcle. a few of my friends have newer ( 98, 99, 00) and i think the older the better. I have alot less problems and don't break down like they do....I love my 93 xj.

97+ had the stronger 29 spline chrysler 8.25

i personally like the newer body styles, but i drive a '95 because it was rust free and cheap

I had a 95 and a 99 my vote goes for the 99. It's the last "good year" (imo) for the xj. You have the newer body style, the bigger intake manifold, well casted head, and still a cap and rotor ignition.

I'm partial to the '99.

For me it's my 1992. or I guess 1992's-1995.5 or so...

4.0L HO (bit more horsepower than older models)
AW4
non-renix rig
open cooling system
simple, easy to use OBD1 system
simple, robust Np231
no head cracking issues
simple/cheap/reliable cap and rotor/plug wire setup. Preferred over the coil pack setup on later rigs.
non-vacuum high pinion d30
Prefer the boxy body style to the newer one.
185k, and has been 100% reliable for 2 years (daily driven)


Has the d35, but mine has been fine, and I can easily swap a rear axle from a 1997 and up if I need to for around $150-200.00 The rear axle is really the only weak point on this rig. Swap one in with disc brakes and I'd say I'd have the perfect setup. I'm going to use some frame stiffeners and put on a beefy rear bumper to help keep frame flex at bay, but I don't abuse my truck so it's mostly overkill which I'm fond of. I want my truck to last a long time!

I prefer the 94-96s myself(and the 94-95 YJs--Jeep's glory years), but other than the body shape, do see the 99 as the best-optioned/updated/refined XJ made.

KD3NE_ said:

I vote for 1996

I own both a 1995 and a 1996

The 1995 is a nice unit, in great shape ... took nothing to get it road ready. ( front brake pads )

But the 1996 is OBDII and that can be a plus.

Click to expand...

In populated counties in NC (mine included), the OBDII inspection is $30/year...the '95 and earlier is $13.60 (safety inspection only).
I'd vote '95

Anybody else notice that complete noobs ask this same question every couple of weeks and seldom come back and make a second post??

95 or 99... I actually like obdII (being an electrical engineer) but the 96 barely tells you anything more than the 95, it was the first year of OBDII and they basically just added it to make it legal. I've had my check engine light in the 96 come on precisely 3 times, once due to a transmission that went so bad it wouldn't even move, once because of the wiring to the rear O2 sensor getting stripped of insulation and twisted tightly together by the driveshaft, and most recently due to the replaced insulation (2 feet of electrical tape :gee on the O2 sensor wiring getting undone by heavy rain.

The 96s were also a bastard year electrically and parts are more expensive (fuel level sender / pump assembly is pure unobtainium for instance) and the only other real changes from the 95 were the serpentine belt tensioning assembly design (96 is superior, but how often do you have to deal with this?) and the slip yoke on the transfer case (95 is far superior, can save you a few hundred if you are only lifting it a couple inches.)

And yeah... this is possibly one of the most rehashed subjects out there :spin1: I think there have been at least 6 threads on this subject that I can remember, probably more.

If you go for a 99, try to make it a late-year 99 with the newer style brake rotors and wheel bearings if you think you might ever do a WJ steering/brake swap. They come with the wheel bearings you need for that swap to work, saves you 20-200 dollars (depending on if you buy used or new, and where.)

ive had 87,89.92 and 96. i like the 96 best. also the fasted one i have too. has air bag. the better floor and seats.ob2. a plus

PhotographerMike said:

Anybody else notice that complete noobs ask this same question every couple of weeks and seldom come back and make a second post??

Click to expand...

Thanks for the warm welcome Mike. :moon: Thought I was just asking questions about jeeps, but apparently I'm just another complete noob. If you noticed the time, less than 24 hours had elapsed before you ASSumed I wouldn't be back. Thanks to everyone else who answered my questions. Appreciate it. Some of your replies were very insightful. I'm in Ca. so rust wont be a big factor
I have another question, but I'll start a new thread for it.

Glad to have you back. I have both an '89 and '96 and drive them both. If I had to do it over I'd probably look for a late '96 to '99 with options from what I've learned rather than look for a specific year or trim level.

Some PERSONAL opinions for the next one; 6 cyl., Auto trans., 242 transfer case for full time 4x4, 8.25 rear end, no rust, no "minor" tweeks to the unibody.

You can add most factory options without problem (interior lights, O.H. console, rear wipers, factory skids, tow hooks and almost anything else), the Cherokee is usually fully wired for plug-and-play.

So. Cal. is a good group that can help out.
My comment was just that, no offense planned.

Welcome,
Mike

Mike, I noticed for your next jeep you would opt for an auto trans. That was my next question, pros and cons of AW4 vs AX15. I guess you give up a few ponies with the auto and it runs warm(I would add a cooler). I'm getting lazy in my old age(46) and thought an auto would be nice. Do most guys that are into real technical trails prefer the AX15? Prolly has better clearence and ways less but I dont see myself building the ultimate rock crawler. All opinions welcome