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Rocker Slider Question

J

jeepxj2007

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Michigan
I used some 1 1/2" sch 40 pipe that seamless and 2 90*s on the ends and then took 1 1/4" sch 40 and coped it to fit the 1 1/2 in 2 spots so each rail will connect by 4 spots to the rectangle tube. I am going to use 2x4 rectangle tube to replace my dented up rockers and tie them into the pinch seam and the sill plates only by plug welds and bolts. What would be the best thickness for the tube to use, 1/8 wall or 3/16" i don't have any stiffeners on my body. I think the 1/8" would be plenty strong because the jeep is made of sheetmetal and the tube itself is strong, i think the 3/16" wouldn't be quite as good as far as attaching it to the jeep because of the heat needed to get good penetration into the 3/16" without burning the heck out of the sheetmetal...i know it can be done....just a pain...I only have a 110v miller welder and it can do 3/16 but i will feel more confident burning into 1/8 wall....whats your advice...ive seen them built both wall thickness...1/8 wall or 3/16?
 
Just remember when your welding the 3/16" to the sheet to concentrate on the thicker metal and try to roll it into the sheet. Practice with some first till you get the feel since its easy to blow through the sheet metal when running higher voltages.
 
pipe is for poo
 
pipe will be fine for sliders...its seamless and i would be led to believe its stronger than erw tubingt thhat i have seen for sale in pre bent kits for cages online....there is no reason it wouldnt workk and if i was able to manage to destroy it that would be the least of my problems....the wall thickness is close to 3/16 thick on it....if it was that bad it wouldnt be used in chemical ppants to build supports for pipe containing some really nasty stuff....i would know...thats what i do....and everytime i hear that it pisses me off about poo! plastic and cast/ductile is for poo...now i will agree i wouldnt use it for a cage or something life or death....but for rocker sliders it will be perfectly fine....my main concern was what to use for rectangle tube... price difference in the two was only a few cents difference and i will probably go with 3/16...i just wanted a general concencus of what everyone went with.
 
yeah, i do pipe for a living too. and i work in Arizona's largest chemical facility and do pipe systems for chems like chlorine gas, hydrogen bromide, sulfuric acid, hydrofluoric acid, and high purity gases, etc.

its not the wall thickness but the metal composition that is involved. DOM and HREW tube is stronger than mild steel at the same thickness. also, average joe cant make a good enough open root butt weld on sch 40 that will put up with the abuse faced by sliders or rocker replacement.
 
:nono:

Sliders should be DOM.
 
Correction....plumbers do poo here....pipefitters do pipe....two different aspects of pipe...its apples and oranges....same but different...​

I fail to see how I would benefit from actual dom tube here...jyes it may be stronger but for this application I dont see it...maybe if it was going to be a trail only vehicle, but something that sees occassional trails and that these are going to be welded to rectangle tube I really doubt it needs to be out of d.o.m...If I was able to put my rig into something where it was going to make these sliders bend....it is sure of heck going to ruin something else on my rig and make it unsalvageable.... if you can bend something up that is in this configuration...excuse my lack of better drawing I,+, and the dashes between the + are pipe, x's are rectangle tube...the dashes between the I's are just there to space the I's out or else it looked like the I's were all together when i posted it.​

+---------+-----------+------------+
I----------I----------- I------------ I
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX​

there is not one area that goes more than 16" without support to the rectangle tube...to be travelling fast enought or to hit something hard enough for that material to fail in a way such as bending/ shearing off/ etc...its going to do more damage to the rig than worrying about what material should of been used as the tubing material...​

according to this link http://www.atarmor.com/finalreport.pdf they start out as similar metals (mild steel) and undergo different processes to make the final product....​

now I didn't start this thread to open up what material I should make the tubing portion out of... sorry to step on any toes but I just don't buy that argument...now if it was for something that was life or death such as a cage or suspension/steering components..then yes i agree it should be d.o.m...but i fail to see how a situation would occur where I would benefit from having the d.o.m tube in place of the pipe in the configuration i have...either way if i was able to ruin it...that would be the last of my worries...​
 
Dropping off a ledge can land very hard without having to drive super fast. Or getting into a tight spot and having to pivot off the sliders. Ya never know, and it'd be better for the sliders to do their job than to worry about them not handling the abuse and failing, thereby taking a piece of the Jeep with them.
 
Some pics from another thread found here: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1055230



#3
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2 Weeks Ago​

DeftwillP
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National Beer of Texas
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Austin, Round Rock actually
Posts: 2,589​



Re: 2x4 or 2x6 rocker rectangle tube???


I went with 2x6. Offers more protection.​



006.jpg




paint1.jpg







Nevermind that I haven't bothered to get my doors and fenders to line up too much.​



__________________​




99xj with junk on it:viking:

You may all go to Hell, and I will go to Texas.
Davy Crockett​




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#4
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1 Week Ago​

machspeed
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NAXJA Forum User
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Michigan
Posts: 29​



Re: 2x4 or 2x6 rocker rectangle tube???


Another vote for 2x6. If you have no plastic trim on the doors, rockers are barely just past the door itself, so idiots in parting lots open their door into your rocker, not your paintwork.​






jeep+cherokee+007.JPG









Here is one of the best write-ups/ pictorials I've seen. http://www.jeepkings.ca/forums/showt...er-replacement

I intend on mirroring the linked above route w/an additional step, eventually, I intend on tying the 2x6 into the uni-body via 10/12ga sheet. If I go that route I don't even see the need for the stand offs. I'll probably weld an additional piece of angle to the uni-body to add strength and a fresh/clean surface to weld to. Just go 2X6 and forget the pipe aspect.
 
i get your drawing, but why put the pipe there at all. i mean i can see using it for braces to run from the rect. tubing to the "frame" rails but the extra pipe just looks like extra weight to me.
 
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