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Three link LA, What size DOM?

0

01jeepXJ13760

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Endicott, NY
hello all,

i have a a question about the LA 3 link i am building for my cherokee. i plan on using .250 DOM for all of the arms. The lowers will be ~3' and the upper ~2.5' So the question is. Will it be strong enough? The OD is 1.5" on the .250 i would imagine that would be plenty strong enough. but i have not done much with DOM tubing before. I can always sleeve it with a thinner wall for strength but that would obviously cost more money.

So let me know what you think, and what size DOM You have used for any suspension builds that you may have done.

Thanks ahead of time. NAXJA
 
i use 1.75 od solid stock for my lower midarms. its legit.

as for my upper it's 1.5 od .250 wall.

with lowers that long id feel more comfortable with something a little larger than 1.5 od .250 wall. but people have done it.


and if people start talking about the tensile strength of a hexagon for 3 pages in this thread i might just kill a kitten
 
ktm racer 419 said:
i use 1.75 od solid stock for my lower midarms. its legit.

as for my upper it's 1.5 od .250 wall.

with lowers that long id feel more comfortable with something a little larger than 1.5 od .250 wall. but people have done it.


and if people start talking about the tensile strength of a hexagon for 3 pages in this thread i might just kill a kitten
Click to expand...

o no. i hope we dont have to kill kittens. i will punch a baby instead. just seems right.

but on that note. sold stock? so you drilled and threaded the ends your self? did you decide sold because they will take all of the abuse.?

i mean ifit came down to it. i could just sleeve the bottoms and do a single .250 on the upper.

but mostly i was concerned about the 3 foot lowers and how they are gonna take a rock slamming them.

EDIT: Not doing hexagon arms...period.
 
my lower control arms are modified rock krawler arms. i used them because i had them lol.

i have a weld on ballistic bushing on one end and heims on the other for adjustability.
although in 5 years, i have never adjusted them. i just dial in my caster with the upper.
 
According to a thread i read on here not too long ago, you need at least 4" diameter or people will tell you your arms are too weak and they'll break on the trail.
 
Porch951 said:
According to a thread i read on here not too long ago, you need at least 4" diameter or people will tell you your arms are too weak and they'll break on the trail.
Click to expand...


Unless they're solid hex, then you need to go 6".

In all seriousness, depends on what you do from what I've read. Pirate guys will insist on nothing less than 2.25" .375 walled. Probably overkill for a good deal of most people.
 
My front 1.75" OD 0.375" wall DOM lowers have some nice arch starting in them now.
My rear 2" OD 0.375" wall DOM lowers are perfectly fine.

The length of the arm will also play a role in the "bendability", for a 3' lower arm I wouldn't go anywhere near 1.5" OD 0.250" wall for lowers. If I was making new arms (and I might have to in a few more trips on my front lowers) I would go with 2" OD 0.375" wall DOM or 2.25" OD 0.250" wall DOM.

Porch951 said:
According to a thread i read on here not too long ago, you need at least 4" diameter or people will tell you your arms are too weak and they'll break on the trail.
Click to expand...
:rolleyes:
At least as a result of that thread that manufacturer did increase the diameter to something a bit more reasonable.
 
Most tie rods are over 3' in length.

I had a 40" 1.5 x .250 wall DOM tierod with "1-ton" TREs.

I bowed it pretty good after a few runs out.

I can't imagine coming down hard on one of those.
 
I think .25 wall DOM would be just fine. If you're a rock buggy I'd go thicker.

I'm running 2x2x0.25 square for my lowers, 1.5x1.5x0.120 for my traingulated uppers, and an old RK 1.5 solid stock for my 3rd link upper.
 
well we dont have any rock krawling around here, but some similar stuff. and i can be pretty rough on the jeep. so i will proably end up using smaller on the upper then beef the lowers up. ill go one step up, or sleeve what i have.

thanks for all the advice
 
crazyjim had some crazy beefy control arms made.
 
DeftwillP said:
A lot of work for 3/4" shanked ends
Click to expand...

If one is taking the time to make some sleeved DOM arms, I hope they wouldn;t use 3/4 shank anything, especially the crap RK ends. :D



01jeepXJ13760, the overall size really would be best calculated around the tubing adapters you are using for your end links (7/8, 1, 1 1/4, etc). What are you using for ends?
 
I think the Full Traction LA kit is a 1.5" .250 sleeved with a 2.0" .250. It has a 1.25" heim on the frame and a 2" poly-bushing at the axle. Something like that. If you are going to build it, you might want to look at chromoly so you dont have to go as thick, increase unsprung weight and lose ride quality.
 
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