iwannadie
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Gilbert, Az
I've been putting off replacing the ball joints on my 97 country for a long time now expecting it to be a nightmare of a job. I'm fairly certain they are factory originals at 161k miles.
I went in to this job wanting the proper quality tools to hedge my bet as much as I could. So, I grab the OTC 7894 press adapters on amazon. They were on sale for $69 and I had a $20 credit so that worked out awesome. I rented a ball joint press from oreilys which was brand new and really stout($179 If I keep it) and I picked up a ball joint separator for $10. I ordered spicer ball joints to do all 4 for $90. I thought I needed the split ring castle nut socket so I ordered that as well as a 1-5/16" socket for the lower ball joint earlier. Turned out I didn't need either socket : / .
Here's how it played out, not a write up but maybe helpful for someone looking to attempt it.
I tore into things starting on the passenger side getting the brakes off, unit bearing and axle out leaving the axle attached. I went to remove the tie rod only to find the stud spinning with the nut and I was not able to remove it. I then decided to move on to the ball joint nuts to get them off at least. The lower ball joint which I expect to be 1-5/16" was smaller by a lot but of course not a match for any of my sockets. I ran up to the local parts place already cursing myself for going low quality on tools now after all my planning. I got a 28mm socket that fit and head home hoping for a change of luck.
I get home and check the internet regarding the tie rod and find I need to put load on the tie road to keep the stud from turning. I used the floor jack to put very light pressure under the tie rod and the nut spun right off, now we're truckin'. Move on to the ball joint nuts, they spin right off no problems there. Bust out the ball joint separator and 3lb mini sledge and get that started, leaving the nuts loosely in place to catch the knuckle. I whack at it a few times then realize, hey I'm not some caveman, I have an air hammer now(ingersoll rand extreme duty)!
Get the air hammer hooked up and give it a go. Took maybe 1 second and the knuckle drops free. I notice the upper ball joint stud came with the knuckle though. I hit it a few times with the air hammer and it goes flying free with ease and now I'm on a total roll.
Get the press and adapter sleeves all setup using the instructions from OTC. I start with the upper, cranking away at with a box end wrench and it gets nice and snug then I tap the yoke with a normal sized hammer. Repeat that several times getting tighter and hitting a little harder. Just when I thought I hit a wall, "Pop!" the ball joint moves ever so slightly. I repeat the tighten/hammer routine and little by little it comes completely free. Lower ball joint was the same no problems with the OTC adapters. That sudden pop when it breaks free at first was a bit startling each time.
I clean everything up as best I can before starting to reinstall. Using the press I do the lower ball joint first and it goes in just fine then the upper is in before I know it. Reinstall goes smooth with everything torqued to spec and one side is complete.
On to the driver side, all the same as before only I used some PB blaster. I soaked the upper and lower ball joint before getting the press setup. The upper never made the big "Pop" it just inched out. I could see it move slightly when I would hammer at it between tightening the press. Same with the lower, I'm not sure if the PB blaster helped that much or if there was some other difference but it went much quicker. I also pulled the upper stud from the ball joint on that side as well, I'm guessing that's a sign of how bad they were.
All said and done it was a breeze and I'm glad I paid up front for the right tools and now I have them for the future(and some extra ha). I would still like to get my own press but for now the rental was perfect and showed no sign of bending or stress. I was amazed when tapping the yoke with the hammer and seeing the ball joint move, that was pretty cool to see in action. I'm glad I read up and didn't just get a press and crank away on it.
I went in to this job wanting the proper quality tools to hedge my bet as much as I could. So, I grab the OTC 7894 press adapters on amazon. They were on sale for $69 and I had a $20 credit so that worked out awesome. I rented a ball joint press from oreilys which was brand new and really stout($179 If I keep it) and I picked up a ball joint separator for $10. I ordered spicer ball joints to do all 4 for $90. I thought I needed the split ring castle nut socket so I ordered that as well as a 1-5/16" socket for the lower ball joint earlier. Turned out I didn't need either socket : / .
Here's how it played out, not a write up but maybe helpful for someone looking to attempt it.
I tore into things starting on the passenger side getting the brakes off, unit bearing and axle out leaving the axle attached. I went to remove the tie rod only to find the stud spinning with the nut and I was not able to remove it. I then decided to move on to the ball joint nuts to get them off at least. The lower ball joint which I expect to be 1-5/16" was smaller by a lot but of course not a match for any of my sockets. I ran up to the local parts place already cursing myself for going low quality on tools now after all my planning. I got a 28mm socket that fit and head home hoping for a change of luck.
I get home and check the internet regarding the tie rod and find I need to put load on the tie road to keep the stud from turning. I used the floor jack to put very light pressure under the tie rod and the nut spun right off, now we're truckin'. Move on to the ball joint nuts, they spin right off no problems there. Bust out the ball joint separator and 3lb mini sledge and get that started, leaving the nuts loosely in place to catch the knuckle. I whack at it a few times then realize, hey I'm not some caveman, I have an air hammer now(ingersoll rand extreme duty)!
Get the air hammer hooked up and give it a go. Took maybe 1 second and the knuckle drops free. I notice the upper ball joint stud came with the knuckle though. I hit it a few times with the air hammer and it goes flying free with ease and now I'm on a total roll.
Get the press and adapter sleeves all setup using the instructions from OTC. I start with the upper, cranking away at with a box end wrench and it gets nice and snug then I tap the yoke with a normal sized hammer. Repeat that several times getting tighter and hitting a little harder. Just when I thought I hit a wall, "Pop!" the ball joint moves ever so slightly. I repeat the tighten/hammer routine and little by little it comes completely free. Lower ball joint was the same no problems with the OTC adapters. That sudden pop when it breaks free at first was a bit startling each time.
I clean everything up as best I can before starting to reinstall. Using the press I do the lower ball joint first and it goes in just fine then the upper is in before I know it. Reinstall goes smooth with everything torqued to spec and one side is complete.
On to the driver side, all the same as before only I used some PB blaster. I soaked the upper and lower ball joint before getting the press setup. The upper never made the big "Pop" it just inched out. I could see it move slightly when I would hammer at it between tightening the press. Same with the lower, I'm not sure if the PB blaster helped that much or if there was some other difference but it went much quicker. I also pulled the upper stud from the ball joint on that side as well, I'm guessing that's a sign of how bad they were.
All said and done it was a breeze and I'm glad I paid up front for the right tools and now I have them for the future(and some extra ha). I would still like to get my own press but for now the rental was perfect and showed no sign of bending or stress. I was amazed when tapping the yoke with the hammer and seeing the ball joint move, that was pretty cool to see in action. I'm glad I read up and didn't just get a press and crank away on it.
