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Has anyone spray painted there Jeep?

Trail Ready

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Cerritos ca
I know there are a few guys Nationwide on here that have done this job but I wanted tips from someone local.How big of a job is this really?How long does sanding and masking really take?I am thinking of going with a desert tan color.Is this a weekend job or just a day?I onle have a few hours this Saturday free and all day Sunday to do it.Or should I wait until I have more time?The Jeep is green.Will I have to primer to change the color to tan or just ruff up the paint with 330 grit?Any tips or help is appreciated thanks.
 
There are a few guys who have done it. I say a few hours saturday and all day sunday will be enough. Its like anything, it takes as long as you care to do it. The prep will take the longest (for a good turn out) but its all a matter of what you want.

I saw a book at Vatozone "garage paintjobs" that may have some good tips.
 
all depends on how good of a paint job you want. heck you can rattle can one in a couple hours as long as you dont mind it looking like it. if you want a nice job, then sand, prep, primer. drive to work that week. sand some more on the other side, prep, prime. drive to work for another week. sand the top and hood, prep, prime. drive to work another week and look for a good place to spray with a large compressor, good gun, and a booth would be a plus. friday afternoon pick up some quality paint at an automotive paint supply house. wake up saterday morning, finish sand the primer with some 400 wet, blow and let dry, tape and mask. spray color and be happy.

or get a case of rustolium at home depot, tape the tip of your finger, and have at it in the driveway.
 
I did it in my driveway in one afternoon with basically NO prepwork to the paint. all I did was mask off the windows with tape and paper and I peeled off some left over glue and rtv from the sides.

Then I spray bombed it with about 8 partially full different brands of flat black spray paint. Here is the link when I posted it up.
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1041780

I do agree 100% however it really all depends on what kind of quality you want the finish to be. I am not worried about minor imperfections because I know I will be scratching it when im out having fun. Then I hop out with another can and abra-cadabra!!! the scratch is gone.

I hope my two cents help you out a little.
 
when i did it, it took a week. i took my time with it, but i spent a lot of time doing prep work...like stated before the paintjob is only going to last whit the effort you put into it...

heres where my jeep started when i decided i wanted to paint it...

Jeep.jpg


i didnt get and pictures of the prep work, but here is the final outcome.

PICT1171.jpg


its only been a little over a year and the paint is already fading...but everything used on here was spray paint....
 
Rustoleum:

IMG_1591Large.jpg
 
as said above, the prep work will take the most time... especially if you are going with a gloss finish you'll spend a long time getting the body straight. Masking properly will take more time than painting.

Since your jeep is a dark color I would primer it white or gray first before spraying a lighter color over it. If you are going with a flat finish, I would just get some scotch-brite pads and rough the paint up, you shouldn't need to sand it down too much unless your paint is really rough. If it is, sand the rough areas with 300 then 500. for gloss finish do 1000 after that. make sure you sand down all the areas that clearcoat is peeling or powdering up, they'll keep peeling under the paint and ruin your paintjob.

lots of light coats will come out much better looking than a couple of heavy coats, how good are you with a spray can? remember not to start or stop spraying facing directly at a body panel, you have to turn your wrist towards as you start and away as you end, unless you are starting and stopping off the body. I can come by and show you what I mean if you want. a good distance is 12-18" away to avoid ending up with stripes in the final product. let it dry at least an hour before you throw another coat on, 2 if it's cold or damp outside.

Be prepared for paint dust to get on EVERYTHING. not just in your garage, outside as well as the fumes go out the door. Don't paint with the garage door closed, and at the very least wear a mask that covers your nose and mouth, googles that seal against your face is a good idea too for keeping paint dust from the air out of your eyes.

I've painted a dozen or so cars with spray cans, if you take your time it can come out really well. Stick with a good paint like krylon, duplicolor, or rustoleum. Cheap paint doesnt stick as well and the color fades quickly if it sits out in the sun all the time.


Good luck :D
 
I did mine with Krylon Ultra Flat tan and Satin black on the hood. My cousin helped me and wasn't very good at listening to direction. My side looks great (except I could've done more prep since the paint is coming off), his side has runs, heavy spray areas, rough spots, etc. I used an etching primer on mine. I need to redo it again to fix the areas he messed up and fix the accumulated damage.

Take the advice given, multiple light coats, lots of prep.
 
Thanks fellas,I have a half mask respirator with piggy back filters I will use to avoid fumes.Can I use some kinda electric sander or is it better to use a block?I don't want paint all over my garage so I will have to find somewhere to paint it.
 
Pay for convenience at Earl Sheib or Maaco. The money and time you spend might just be worth it to drop it off and pick it up 299 bucks later. Just my thoughts, I'm in the same boat as you with my very faded 96.
 
Don't do the rattle can paint job.

The industry about a year or so ago have been switching over to water base paints.
It has been a real trial and error process, and the only way It's havin any chance of working is because of the clear coat that is being applied on top.

The rattle can paint doesn't have a chance of surviving for any extended period of time.
 
I used the krylon ultra flat camo paint, olive dab green. Didnt care too much about the prep work since its a jeep and going to get scratched up and dirty anyway..lol I didnt use any primer just sanded down the base coat enough so that the paint would stick. That Krylon ultra flat stuff is pretty tough, didnt fade while I had it for a year or so, then rolled it and still the paint didnt chip on the crinkled sections..:laugh:
Here are some pics:
9728_100767299945231_100000358834633_17460_4133274_n.jpg


Used dupicolor bed liner spray on the the bottom, heres a pic after she rolled:

8919_101314116557216_100000358834633_32995_1841168_n.jpg



If you want a nice flat paint job, I spoke to a local paint shop a few days ago when I had to paint the daily driver. He said theres a new clear coat for flat paints that make the final result not shinny like normal clear coats. Otherwise with the rattle can when you get scratches it looks a little like chalk marks on a black board. But not too noticably from far away. He quoted me around 300 for the paint and clear along with the hardener and other crap if you have a spray gun, if not buy the one from HF for 50 bucks.Just my .02.
 
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Poser.jpg


I grew up doing bodywork. This is my trail rig. Prep is king. Don't sand down to bare metal if you can help it. Pick up a copy of Petersons body work book and do some learning.

This is what it looked like when I got it.

GrannyGold.jpg
 
Pay for convenience at Earl Sheib or Maaco. The money and time you spend might just be worth it to drop it off and pick it up 299 bucks later. Just my thoughts, I'm in the same boat as you with my very faded 96.

X2 See if they have swatches of the color you like... then find the rattle can equevalant to do the door jambs, engine bay & other visible stuff... then take it to them & have it shot...

Curt
 
I used roller after lots of prep, and applied my own satin rustoleum finish. Other than the hood, which is getting baked and chalked due to engine heat, It has held up REALLY well.
 
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