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Thermostat Housing problems

keaton

NAXJA Forum User
Location
auburn wa
Ok so long story short I installed a new thermostat housing and t stat. I used rtv blue all around and let it dry for a couple hours per instructions from the parts store guy. Drivin it on the freeway it started smokin like crazy. Waitin for my buddy to come tow me now but what the hell do i do?
 
Basics are good...year, engine....etc.

So, did you "burp" the coolant system? Did it over heat (temperature gauge showing over-temp)? What sort of smoke....steam?

Really not enough info to help right now.
 
Is coolant leaking through the gasket, or is this an overheat condition?
 
Spend the $1.00 and get the gasket--- then do it right.
 
Did you just put it on and crank it down and let it dry? Or did you put on the RTV, loosly replace the housing, let it cure for a while (couple of hours at least I think is recommended) and then snug up the bolts?

Also, did you absolutely get ALL of the old RTV off the engine side before putting on the new housing? It needs to be clean and smooth. You also did not say if you used a gasket or not.
 
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one time i overtightened my thermostat housing and it got a very small crack in it that you had to look really close to see, so it wasnt sealing up with rtv or a new gasket.
 
The Thermostat on my Truck (It has a 258, older version of the 4.0) I used zero RTV on the thermostat housing. Just used the paper gasket. Has not leaked in the 6 years it has been on there. RTV is often way over used. If you do use it, use a very small amount, just enough to fill any voids that may be in the mating surfaces.
 
did you put the thermostat in backwards? (don't laugh i've seen it done). Also make sure the vent hole is pointed UP.
 
one time i overtightened my thermostat housing and it got a very small crack in it that you had to look really close to see, so it wasnt sealing up with rtv or a new gasket.

this is possible. I had a cracked ear on mine and you couldn't even see it, but when I removed it you could see it on the inside of the casting. A slight flex and it broke off in my hand.

I use RTV, because the mating surface of my block is badly pitted. A smooth even smear about 1/16" thick is all you need. Install thermostat housing, tighten bolts until the RTV just starts to squeeze out. Leave it for 2 hours, come back, torque bolts to spec and call it done.
 
then you probably got it right lol
 
I did use a paper gasket at first with no rtv and it leaked after about 10 seconds. Then used rtv with the gasket and t seemed to work until I started drivin it.
 
what would happen if it wasn't pointed up?

Air would have a hell of a time exiting the block as the coolant expanded (prior to the thermostat opening)
 
what would happen if it wasn't pointed up?


did you clean the surfaces good?

Im gonna go check to see if the air hole is pointed up. I thought it was but ill double check. And yeah i scraped all the old crap off with a putty knife then cleaned em up with a scotchbrite. and the housing was brand new too.
 
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Air would have a hell of a time exiting the block as the coolant expanded (prior to the thermostat opening)

and it would overheat?

Im gonna go check to see if the air hole is pointed up. I thought it was but ill double check. And yeah i scraped all the old crap off with a putty knife then cleaned em up with a scotchbrite. and the housing was brand new too.

after the scotchbrite use some alcohol or cleaner and let it dry. get that farker clean.
 
for the OP...I think the question now is did it leak because it overheated, or did it overheat cuz it leaked. If it lost enough fluid to overheat, wasn't the smoking (from fluid on the header) present long before it reached 260 degrees?
 
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