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2000 Cherokee stalls???

Cherokee Dad

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Apex, NC
2000 XJ Cherokee, stock engine w/fuel inject and auto trans - happends now and then, usually in cold weather, but engine has warmed above 1/4 heat not to 1/2 way mark on t-stat guage. Stopped at a light for a minute or so and just cuts off, no shudder or cough and is easy to restart?? Any ideas? Other than that runs well?
 
Is it throwing any codes? And for the record, I assume its a 4.0?
 
Yes 4 lt and no codes - just replaced the oil sending unit, was throwing a code on that, but nothing on the stall???

Are there any other symptoms before it cuts out - or in general?
 
Thats the 'heck' of it - it runs great at ALL other times. I have checked vac lines, replaced plugs, etc. I think I will run a tank of fuel cleaner thru it and maybe carb clean the throttle body??????
 
Thats the 'heck' of it - it runs great at ALL other times. I have checked vac lines, replaced plugs, etc. I think I will run a tank of fuel cleaner thru it and maybe carb clean the throttle body??????

Not a bad plan, but don't use carb cleaner on the throttle body. Seafoam or BG44K.

When it stalls, do the electrics go out or gauges or other electrical systems do anything odd?

Assuming none of the above, there's another possibility: you may have an idle air sensor (IAS) or idle air controller (IAC) that's only acting up when partially-warm; this can happen particularly if they're dirty or failing.

Try this: with the hood up, standing next to the driver's side fender, looking down at the manifold, there will be what looks like a brass spark plug screwed into the top of it on the left-hand side. Unplug and remove it. You'll notice that the end that was in the manifold looks like a little basket with a pintle inside of it. Very carefully (you don't want to damage the pintle), shoot some penetrating oil into it; stand it upright so that the oil can work in for a minute or so. Turn it upside-down again and let the oil run out; don't shake it. Repeat until the oil comes out clean a couple of times and reinstall. See what happens after that; it may clear the issue up, but if it's failing you may just have to ultimately bite the bullet and replace it.

I'm not keen on trying to clean IACs - my experience has been that if it is going out, it's better to just replace it. However, a good throttle body cleaning can often de-crud them enough that replacement isn't totally necessary.
 
Random stalling is a symptom of a failing Crankshaft Position Sensor (CPS). The CPS may test as good in the garage or driveway, you would need to test it immediately after the stall and before you try to re-start to be sure it is out of specification.

The service life of the CPS is about 150,000 miles and 4 out of 5 of my Cherokees have needed a new CPS due to stalling, or a no-start condition.

CPS Testing


Crankshaft Position Sensor Connector (CPS/CKP)


standard.jpg

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standard.jpg



TESTING PROCEDURE 1991 – 2001 4.0L H.O. engines

1. Near the rear of intake manifold, disconnect sensor pigtail harness connector from main wiring harness.
2. Place an ohmmeter across terminals B and C (See Image). Ohmmeter should be set to 1K-to-1OK scale for this test.
3. The meter reading should be open (infinite resistance). Replace sensor if a low resistance is indicated.
 
Stalls but starts right back up?

What is the idle RPM not using the dash tach after 20 minutes of driving, in DRIVE, parking brake set and service brake applied?
 
Tim_MN - thanks for the info and diagram, from what I have found the CPS is the most likely problem and as they seem to go out between 150-200K miles @ 210K it's almost a sure bet, so I'm picking one up tomorrow and will just go ahead and install.

Joe the RPM is around 600, not racing and when it cuts out no shudder, etc that is 'more' usual with an idle problem - as stated above all points to a bad (or failing) Crank Postion Sensor - I will try that a let you all know.

Thanks for your input, the Forum has been very helpful.
 
Your idle is too low at 600 RPM and is a symptom of or contributing to the stalling.
 
i recently had basically the same issue, so i went and replaced cps iac o2 fuel pump cam sensor..and nothing worked..today i threw on an ignition coil and it hasnt stalled since
 
i recently had basically the same issue, so i went and replaced cps iac o2 fuel pump cam sensor..and nothing worked..today i threw on an ignition coil and it hasnt stalled since

Except that the 2000 & '01 XJs had coil-on-plug ignition. That's not to say that there isn't necessarily a problem in the coil pack, but given what they cost (upwards of $125) it's better to leave that one until last unless it's known-bad.
 
Not a bad plan, but don't use carb cleaner on the throttle body. Seafoam or BG44K.

Aww crap, why not, what can happen? I just cleaned the hell out of my throttle body with regular carb cleaner. I knew I should've spent the extra $3 on the can that says throttle body cleaner on it. :banghead:
 
Aww crap, why not, what can happen? I just cleaned the hell out of my throttle body with regular carb cleaner. I knew I should've spent the extra $3 on the can that says throttle body cleaner on it. :banghead:

Carb cleaner is typically-harsher than throttle body cleaner on seals & sensors, either at or downstream from the throttle body. Given that it was just the one cleaning, you're probably OK - but you definitely don't want to make a habit of it.
 
So what was the result?Did the CPS fix your issue or did you have to try some of the other items mentioned? I am having the same issue on my 2000.

Brett

Tim_MN - thanks for the info and diagram, from what I have found the CPS is the most likely problem and as they seem to go out between 150-200K miles @ 210K it's almost a sure bet, so I'm picking one up tomorrow and will just go ahead and install.

Joe the RPM is around 600, not racing and when it cuts out no shudder, etc that is 'more' usual with an idle problem - as stated above all points to a bad (or failing) Crank Postion Sensor - I will try that a let you all know.

Thanks for your input, the Forum has been very helpful.
 
There are two camps of XJ 4.0 owners.

1. Ones that HAVE replaced their crank sensor

2. Ones that WILL BE replacing their crank sensor (if you keep the vehicle long enough)

The crank sensor is the most common sensor failure on the Jeep 4.0 engine.
 
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