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Crazy XJ

Leonkruger7

NAXJA Forum User
Location
south africa
Hi guys and gals
I have been reading this forum with much enthusiasm. I have Jeep XJ 2000 Model 4.0l with AW4 Transmission.I am absolutely baffled. When the XJ is cold it runs fine but at normal operating temp it cuts out. When I go over a bump it cuts out. Sometimes when I close the hood it cuts out. ONLY WHEN ITS HOT!!!!!!!!!
What I have tried; Tried a new CPS, no luck

PLEASE HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Sounds like a possible short in the coil?...
 
I forget the name of the sensor but I just fixed my friends with identical symptoms. There is a sensor under the rotor of the distributor cap. One wire was broke internally. I pulled it and swapped mine in and it worked fine. I took his in and soldered the wire up. I found it checking all the sensors and realized I had a good reading cold on everything and when war I could not get a reading on that sensor.
 
I put extra earth cables from the battery to the chassis and engine but will check the starter cables

Doubtful it's the starter cables, but (as suggested) also check the battery terminals for both condition and tightness.

Sounds like a possible short in the coil?...

It's a 2000 so no traditional coil - but it's possible that the connector at the coil pack is either in need of cleaning or has a wiring fault.

There is a sensor under the rotor of the distributor cap.

Doesn't apply on a 2000 (or '01) - the ignition system is distributorless.

When you say you swapped the CPS, by that do you mean the Crank Position Sensor or the Cam Position Sensor? I'm only asking because you mentioned the Cam Position Sensor as well, and CPS is typically taken to mean the Crank Position Sensor. Just want to be sure we're referring to the same thing (or both) here.

Are there any other symptoms when this happens? Headlamps going out, loss of dash lights and gauges, etc.? Just trying to figure out where it may be coming from.
 
Search the wiring harness for any breaks in the insulation. trace the harness fom one side of the vehicle, back along the firewall to the other side of the vehicle. Look to see if the harness is rubbing someplace where it shouldn't be.

I had an intermittent stutter and Check Engine Light throwing a Cam position Sensor code.

Culprit was the main wiring harness was rubbing the back of the fuel rail and rubbed through the insulation.

BTW Good morning
 
With the engine running try moving the PCM wires/connectors around a bit with your hand to see if you can get the engine to quit.

Distributorless or not, there is a synch (cam) sensor, so checking the harness to it can't hurt.
 
I put a new crank positioning sensor in. ( Same symptoms) I tried a spare cam positioning sensor I had (Same symptoms) I also tried a spare coil pack (Same symptoms). When its warm sometimes the guages wont work but also the ''no key'' light comes on even if the guages work. Good morning to you too
 
I put a new crank positioning sensor in. ( Same symptoms) I tried a spare cam positioning sensor I had (Same symptoms) I also tried a spare coil pack (Same symptoms). When its warm sometimes the guages wont work but also the ''no key'' light comes on even if the guages work. Good morning to you too
 
Good morning to you too. I have put in a new crank positioning sensor( same symptoms) I tried another cam positioning sensor and coil pack ( same symptoms) When hot the guages would work intermittantly. The ''no key'' light would also come on even if the guages work. After a few tries with the ignition the ''no key'' light would go off and it would start. I dont know if it has to cool down a little before it goes off. I am truly baffled.
 
Good morning to you too. I have put in a new crank positioning sensor( same symptoms) I tried another cam positioning sensor and coil pack ( same symptoms) When hot the guages would work intermittantly. The ''no key'' light would also come on even if the guages work. After a few tries with the ignition the ''no key'' light would go off and it would start. I dont know if it has to cool down a little before it goes off. I am truly baffled.:spin3:
 
It is a long shot but try the O2 sensor. I had it happen to my XJ before. It would run perfect cold up for about 30 minutes then quit until the engine was cold again.
 
You gotta love Jeep people. Thank you guys, I did what you said. I started her up and tugged at wires while shes cold and WOW it cut out while I tugged at the engine wire harness against the firewall. I removed the whole engine harness and checked for open wires and found it. It rubbed against the long head bolt sticking out at the back of the head. Taped everything up, put a rubber sleeve over the bolt and now she runs beautiful
Thanks once again!!!!:us::rolleyes::worship:
 
You gotta love Jeep people. Thank you guys, I did what you said. I started her up and tugged at wires while shes cold and WOW it cut out while I tugged at the engine wire harness against the firewall. I removed the whole engine harness and checked for open wires and found it. It rubbed against the long head bolt sticking out at the back of the head. Taped everything up, put a rubber sleeve over the bolt and now she runs beautiful
Thanks once again!!!!:us::rolleyes::worship:

Glad it was an easy find. BTW, that bolt (if it's the one I'm thinking of) should have a braided grounding strap running from it to the firewall... If it doesn't, I'd recommend getting one on there, or, better yet, using some welding cable instead of the strap.

Also, you may want to double-sheath the part of the harness that runs back there. Split conduit is fine for this depending on what temperature rating you can find for it.

Late edit: also, give your engine and transmission mounts a check - it's tight back there, but the bolt shouldn't be touching that harness in normal running. It's also possible that the retainers holding the harness to the firewall have just disintegrated over time, though, allowing things to contact each other.
 
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