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Starts then dies...Vacuum Line Hell

imwoodhouse

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Des Moines, IA
Morning. Having trouble keeping my Jeep running.
1990 Cherokee 4.0 Auto
I can start it, but then it high idles then dies. If I gas it it dies immediately.

It cranks for a longer than normal time (while fuel pressure tester on it, the pressure slowly builds up), then finally fires, high idles then falls flat on its face. The fuel pressure plateaus at 15 PSI if I have the vacuum assist on or not. But as noted before, the fuel pressure builds, peaks and drops. I can keep it running with ether ( I know its bad to do but I wanted to make sure it was not another problem). Also if you can see from the pictures that the vacuum lines are a NIGHTMARE!!!! I got this Jeep from a kid that used it as a mud runner so most of everything non-essential was removed (including vacuum lines), which could be causing or adding to the problem. From what I have read so far that the starting then dying may be a vacuum problem. The fuel pressure tester booklet and my Haynes manual were less than helpful on how to hook the unit up so here are the pictures of how I did it. Let me know if I left something out. Thanks in advance!

http://s1232.photobucket.com/albums/ff363/imwoodhouse/
 
Probably stupid to ask but that would be replace fuel pump then?

Probably...........

Other possibles: crap in tank; hose in tank between pump and tank flange is cracked/split/loose clamps; clogged fuel filter; damaged fuel line; bad FPR.

Wearing safety glasses you can squeeze the FPR return hose and see what the pressure does--DO NOT DO THIS FOR MORE THAN A SECOND OR TWO--pressure can exceed 95 psi with a correctly operating pump.

I would start at the tank. Pull the pump assembly, inspect the condition of the fuel tank, the pickup sock, the rubber lines from the top of the pump to the mounting flange.

Clean up any mess/problems. If you need to replace the fuel pump--recommend Bosch 69302--and the fuel filter.

You should use a new mounting flange gasket.
 
I would check the fuel pressure regulator (FPR) before I messed with the gas tank and fuel pump. Pull the vacuum line off the FPR and see if you smell gasoline leaking while cranking. Then check the fuel line rubber for age, fuel filter next, and check the ballast resistor!!!!!!!
 
Forgive my ignorance, but what is that, what does it look like and how would one check it?

White ceramic part with two one wire connectors, under the hood, front drivers side, on the side in front of and next too the EGR solenoid, and a lone relay. It drops the run voltage to the fuel pump. The ECU bypasses it while cranking to get more voltage to the fuel pump.

What is the static fuel pressure with ignition switch on but not starting? FP should run about 5 seconds when you switch from off to run only, do not start. Should reach and hold 29 psi IIRC.
 
Then check the voltage to the fuel pump at the fuel pump, check the fuel hoses, fuel filter, and carefully run the "brief" return line hose squeeze test Joe described in detail below to try and find the weak link(s). Does not sound like the B resistor. My 87 and 89 both died on no fuel once, different years in the last 3 years, and turned out to be old dirty quick connect pins and a dirty ground at the fuel pump / gas tank!
 
Then check the voltage to the fuel pump at the fuel pump, check the fuel hoses, fuel filter, and carefully run the "brief" return line hose squeeze test Joe described in detail below to try and find the weak link(s). Does not sound like the B resistor. My 87 and 89 both died on no fuel once, different years in the last 3 years, and turned out to be old dirty quick connect pins and a dirty ground at the fuel pump / gas tank!

I like the sound of that better than the $100 fuel pump.... :spin1:

Yes I am cheap!
 
Hey everybody dvlfsh9 here, new to NAXJA. Recently purchased an 89 and had the same problem about 1/4 mile from the purchase point. I was wondering if woodhouse had any success repairing his problem and where he found his success. Any advice would be great. Thanks
 
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