little cheese build up

i know that advanced fab would be the best place to post this but i cant post there for some reason...if a mod would move it or pm me about that to figure it out that would be great.

ok to start off this build is going to go pretty slow as im a poor college kid and i just want to throw some ideas around first. my goal is to have the swap done and in by june/july for our annual jambo. this will also be daily driven.

axles:
so my FSJ freak friend has Chevy 44 flat top/high steer new brakes, lock outs(fairly new)... blah blah...14 bolt disk converted, pinion guard, 4.10's. in his j10 but is looking at a j20 thats got a 60 with disks, and a 44 with new joints/ brakes, and lock outs(warn premium i believe). so either way i will end up with a 44 front preferably the chevy for the flat tops.. im not to sure about the rear tho. both great axles for the wheelin i do i think that the 14 is just a bit too much for me tho.. im also thinking about cutting the front tubes down for waggy inner shafts?

front suspension:
mid arm 3 link passenger upper. new shocks are desperately needed. hysteer, maybe hydro assist/boost
rear: ruff stuff 2+ UBE spring perches. shackle relocation brackets/ 1.5" shackles. shocks/bpe

im thinking 35" all terrains for the street and then some 37s? for the trail thinking ltb's but interco is slacking.. i have a friend with new 36s that i might get..

my plans (for the future after the swap, or during if theres coin)
front: selectable locker arb/ox? possibly dually hubs if that becomes an issue
rear: lsd or selectable locker. would like a spool but again this will be a DD. truss, rear 3 link? wishbone style.

i think thats it for now.

blown' n stroken' said:

ok to start off this build is going to go pretty slow as im a poor college kid

Click to expand...

i feel your pain.






as a poor college kid to another... get a honda.

ha! :gee:

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Scott

Ur a broke college kid and you plan to have 35s AND 37s? Interesting...

That's a decent build you have planned to not have any money. I do feel ur pain. I work 56 hours a week and still don't have Jeep money. Good luck.

we had a honda.. it decided to blow a few valves.

i have high ambitions is there something wrong with that?

because the 44 is going to be passenger side drop im not too sure what to do about the transfer case. i have a friend that will sell me a dana 20 for real cheap (is it worth it?) and there are a few dana 300 floating around in my area. i started looking into the 231/dana 300 doubler although most write ups ive seen are flipping for drivers drop but seems relativity easy to do, i planed on cable shifters as i wouldn't be flipping . last but not least i might have a real cheap 205? i believe havent done my hw on those though. what do you run? or would you

what trans do you have. if it's an auto you may run into clearence issues running pas drop with the drive shaft.
if you went the 231/300 route you can clock the 300 anyway you want. so if you didn't want to flip it you wouldn't have to

yea i have the aw4

Forget the Chevy 44, get a Ford 44. Driver's drop and easy to make the swap. If you really want the flat top, you can probably install Chevy knuckles to it.

oh and i hope you plan on shaving the 14b quite a bit if you are going to run 37's that's an aweful small tire for such a beastly axle.

i think ballistic has some 14b gears that are already turned down so you can shave quite a bit out. but that's some extra cash there...

i would, but... the chevy is completely rebuilt new everything and im getting a decent deal on both front/rear. original plan was to go ford hp44 and 9 in but the guy sold the truck.. also 231 4 low isnt low enough for me..

deleted...repost

your better off stickin to 33's on stock axles than trying to run 35's/37's on those axles.....but thats me

GL w/build

any reason why? my 30 is already on its way out..

Diff clearance. 410's and 35's/37's isn't gonna be fun either

My friend runs 4.10s and 35s. Not awesome, but liveable.

I wouldn't go for a chevy 44, you'll have to swap transfer cases introducing a whole nother can of worms. I'd stay with driver's drop, whether its a waggy 44 or a Ford HP44.

Get yourself some outers of an 80s Dodge Ram and you'll get flat tops with drive flanges and 5x5.5 without any swapping of parts.

Interesting note on the hydroboost, as I've planned on that for my MJ. Haven't done much research on it yet, but ordered a pump that can handle that and full hydro from PSC. I wouldn't want to run a stock pump through hydroboost and any kind of assist.

Honestly if you don't have a large budget for this, I'd go for an F150 HP44 narrowed to waggy width, run stock waggy shafts/x760s with full circle clips and lockouts, get some chromos for a rear D44 or 8.8 that have 5x5.5 pattern, get Dodge outers to get 5x5.5 up front, and build your front 3 link. Gear both axles as deep as you can and run 35s. Even this setup would cost a considerable amount.

This would mean you don't have to deal with different transfercases, you'll get a HP front axle, and you can romp on 35s without too much worry. The most is you have to carry stock front axleshafts around with you.

I did pretty much this setup (D44/D44 on 35s) and only went through 2 sets of shafts in a year wheeling almost every weekend and DD'in it.