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Question about installing the rear portion of my lift.

E

Explosive

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Michigan
Well I'm currently have fun with the crossmember bolts for the T-case drop. However i will soon be installing the rear. I'm doing a 4.5" rustys. Full spring packs in the rear. But it says, "this kit comes with axle degree shims, if these are needed for proper driveline angles...."

How will I know if I need to use them ? Will it be obvious ?
 
Do you have an SYE? If so I wouldn't worry about the shims with a 4.5 lift. If you don't have an SYE then use the shims. Use the shims to change the pinion angle of your rear axle so that its more inline with your drive line. Use the "search" link to find more info on shims.
 
Alright I'll try searching the shims. And no I don't have an SYE. As of now I'm doing the T-case drop and praying I don't get any horrible vibrations.
 
About a year ago a friend and i installed the same lift on his '88. We decided to not install the shims and it drives fine. (we don't really like shims for a couple reasons) The pinion angle looks just a little low, with the shims it would probably be perfect.

it's has 4.0/aw4/231/dana 35
 
Hmmm, I can't find a ton on my exact issue with the search. But I'm leaning towards installing them. Seems most would agree I should ?
 
Explosive said:
How will I know if I need to use them ? Will it be obvious ?
Click to expand...
With dropping the TC you may not need them. Only way I would know (without measuring the drive angles) is to try it with out them and see if you get any vibes... If you do, pop the shims in and take it for another drive.
 
If you have everything apart, and you have shims in hand, it wont hurt anything if you just put them in. I would. After 500 miles of driving after the lift install go through and make sure everything is still tight, as in the U-bolts on the rear axle. I'm not saying it will loosen up, but it never hurts to double check.
 
Boveevil said:
With dropping the TC you may not need them. Only way I would know (without measuring the drive angles) is to try it with out them and see if you get any vibes... If you do, pop the shims in and take it for another drive.
Click to expand...

thats what we did, i've had shims break in half before so i was glad my friend could avoid them.
 
I have had steel shims on my heep for the last 4 years with out a problem. If you can get away without them good, but if you need them they are not the end of the world.
 
Alright I guess I won't install them yet and see what happens. I know my U joint in the rear driveshaft up by the T case is bad so I'll have to get right on that as it won't help matters any.
 
i had the same kit on my old jeep and had some minor vibes. after a few months i took the shims out and they were broken into pieces. installed the axle again with no shims and there were no vibes
 
Alrighty then, no shims it is. I did see a lot about broken shims while trying to search and if I'm not mistaken rustys gives you cast aluminum shims so I guess ill hold off on the shims for now finish up the lift replace the U joint and get it aligned and make sure the adjustable trac bar is set correctly since I've never done that before and the directions were rather vague...
 
Explosive said:
Alrighty then, no shims it is. I did see a lot about broken shims while trying to search and if I'm not mistaken rustys gives you cast aluminum shims so I guess ill hold off on the shims for now finish up the lift replace the U joint and get it aligned and make sure the adjustable trac bar is set correctly since I've never done that before and the directions were rather vague...
Click to expand...

it really is a simple thing... just push the axle into place until it is the same on both sides, then set the adjustable track bar to fit without moving the axle... simple, takes around 10 or 20 mins (maybe longer if Miller light is involved) :gee:
 
I would put them in. Just an fyi I did the rustus 3 inch. In the rear, it came out to 4 inches. I didn't drop mine. But at 4 inches I feel im right on the thin line of needing to.
 
I'd install shims if you need them to obtain proper driveline angles, just not the ones that came with your kit. They sound like they're of pretty poor quality. Rubicon Express makes some nice steel ones that bolt in as part of your leaf pack. Just stay away from the aluminum.

http://www.rubiconexpress.com/builderparts/Products.aspx?folder=BPDS
 
fyrfytr1717 said:
I'd install shims if you need them to obtain proper driveline angles, just not the ones that came with your kit. They sound like they're of pretty poor quality. Rubicon Express makes some nice steel ones that bolt in as part of your leaf pack. Just stay away from the aluminum.

http://www.rubiconexpress.com/builderparts/Products.aspx?folder=BPDS
Click to expand...

I'll second the recommendation for the RE shims: they've been in my leaves for over 4 years now, have no cracks, and have never slipped out. Worked great at up to 3"; had to go to an SYE past that point, but left them in without issues.
 
i would forgo the aluminum shims. but if they are steel, i would put them in. its a good idea to use them, but the Al ones tend to break, mine did. the steel ones i put in after have been good for almost 5 years now and lots of wheeling
 
Yea, I'm not going to use the included shims as they are cast aluminum and I really don't want to have to install shims twice. I might just bite it an do an SYE if it ends up being an issue.

Heres how she sits after tonights work. Should be on 4 wheels tomorrow.

162607_180028648698230_100000732889449_470698_2658553_n.jpg


164526_180028255364936_100000732889449_470696_4038918_n.jpg
 
Explosive said:
Yea, I'm not going to use the included shims as they are cast aluminum and I really don't want to have to install shims twice. I might just bite it an do an SYE if it ends up being an issue.
Click to expand...

Agreed on not using the included aluminium shims, but before you decide to pass on them entirely allow me to bring your attention to something:

pmkEk.jpg


It appears as though the rear axle is under full droop. Take a look at the pinion angle of the rear diff in relation to the rear driveshaft; note how acute it is. This won't be an issue in most circumstances, but there are situations (cresting a hill or embankment, rocks) where you could end up putting the axle in the same position during normal usage. Rotating it up by even four degrees would be a huge help in those cases.

I'm not saying it's 100% necessary to use shims - and completely agree that they should be steel - but for what they cost, the ease of fitting them, and the extra edge they give, they're worth it to my mind.
 
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